924Board.org

Magnus K · Last edited by Magnus K on Fri Nov 05, 2004 1:22 am; edited 1 time in total

Hi!

I was looking around under my 924NA 1979 yesterday and found some "ugly spots"... The picture shows the right hand part of the front crossmember, in the foreground is the right lower wishbone:

As far as I can see there is one broken bolt where the crossmember attaches to the body? Is there a way to change that bolt/nut combination?

Thanks!
Magnus
_________________
Another curious Swede...

Asleep in Sweden, Europe, when you US guys are awake...

Lizard · Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2004 4:00 am Post subject:

ouch, yah that is definatly broken

the only way i am aware of to fix this is to COMPLETELY remove the cross member (this will mess up your alignment) and to drill that bolt out and then weld a new one in its place,
_________________
3 928s,

Magnus K · Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2004 5:54 pm Post subject:

Chrenan · Joined: 15 Jan 2003 Posts: 3903 Location: Canada

No, I'm sure that bolt is removeable, on the 76 I took to pieces I am positive that bolt is removeable from the top...
_________________
1987 951 - M193 Version for Japan

Magnus K · Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2004 1:21 am Post subject:

Chrenan, how did you reach the bolt from the top? Seems like that whole section of the body is sealed?
_________________
Another curious Swede...

Asleep in Sweden, Europe, when you US guys are awake...

Smoothie · Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2004 2:38 am Post subject:

That thing's completely boxed-in on my '82.
I'm just lazy enough that I wouldn't go through all the trouble of removing the cross-member - if I had some other job needing doing that involved removing it, then I'd do it, but just to replace that bolt, no. I'd put a small glob of weld (spot weld) at one side of the broken bolt - something that could be undone by drilling or grinding in case the cross-member has to be removed at some point in the future.
_________________
"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."

'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

gohim · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 4459 Location: Rialto, CA

On a 924, the bolts for the front crossmember are welded to the inside of the chassis boxed member. You can not replace the bolt in the manner that it was originally installed by the facotory, unless you are going to cut the side of the box, and peel open to expose the inside to get to the bolt head.

Rather than go to the expense and trouble of cutting open the chassis box section to weld on a replacement bolt, some people carefully drill a new hole through the crossmember, the bottom of the box, and the top of the box section. Then a nut and a thick, large diameter washer are placed up on the top of the boxed chassis member to complete the repair.

Chrenan · Joined: 15 Jan 2003 Posts: 3903 Location: Canada

Hmm, maybe I am not remembering correctly, or mabe the early 76 cars were different. My guess is my memory is not so good. I only had that car for 2 weeks, and tore the engine out in one day, so the cross member occupied about 3 minutes of my life. Sorry to get you hopes up, maybe you do have to cut out the old bolt and weld in a replacement.
_________________
1987 951 - M193 Version for Japan

Magnus K · Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2004 7:20 am Post subject:

I think Smoothie and gohim is on to something... I'll give gohims procedure some thought, but it isn't time to remove the crossmember just yet.

(But I am removing the engine later this vinter to fix some oil leakage so by then I'll have to remove the crossmember...)

Thanks to everyone!

Magnus
_________________
Another curious Swede...

Asleep in Sweden, Europe, when you US guys are awake...

CMXXXI · Joined: 05 Nov 2002 Posts: 1939 Location: Vicksburg, MS

With the number of cars we see being parted out on this Board, are "spare" crossmembers that expensive and/or hard to come by?
_________________
'79 Eurospec 931

-nick · Joined: 16 Nov 2002 Posts: 2699 Location: Cambridge, MA

Ouch! Crossmember isn't the problem. The stud is on the frame rail side. Bummer of a break. Good luck.

nick

gohim · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 4459 Location: Rialto, CA

You should not drive the car in that condition.

If the remaining bolt breaks, the bolts on the other side WILL BREAK, and you will lose control of the car because the steering rack will be loose.

Park the car NOW, and fix it before you drive it again.

Magnus K · Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2004 6:03 pm Post subject:

gohim, I agree with you. The car is parked now (winter soon over here) and the problem will be fixed when I let the car out of the garage next spring. This is a situation where I'm glad I got another car (even though I had to trade my Saab 9-3 Turbo for a Ford Focus

) to get around town with. The 924 is "just" my track day car...

I'll post back when I've dealt with this problem!

Regards
Magnus
_________________
Another curious Swede...

Asleep in Sweden, Europe, when you US guys are awake...

welder · Joined: 16 May 2003 Posts: 158 Location: cumberland,maine

Gohim is correct, the easest fix is to drill out the broken bolt and continue drilling through the entire crossmember and replace with a longer bolt. That way nothing has to be dismantled or re-aligned. Make sure your drill speed is very slow, and you should have no trouble.
_________________
I have a 78 n\a currently under restoration.