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goturbo · Joined: 15 Jun 2004 Posts: 88 Location: Massillon Ohio, USA

In some of the posts referiring to waste gate rebuilding, there is talk of re-cutting the valve and seat. My problem is that everything was so rusty that I ended up cutting the studs off and had to use a chisel with more force than I like to seperate the pipes from the waste gate housing. Now would be a good time to add that I had to remove the waste gate and pipes off the car as a unit because getting them apart while on the car was absolutely out of the question. At any rate I would like to get this thing taken apart but I can't tell how to get the valve out of the housing. Is the valve seat held in by the same studs that hold the pipe flange? It is such a rusty mess that it looks like one peice, but that is the only logical way that it would appear to remove the valve-throught the bottom.

Also where is a good place to get gaskets, studs and diapram? I will need all of that to finish the job-if I ever get it apart.

jpab924 · Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2005 4:05 pm Post subject:

I ran into the same problem with mine. It was in the same rusted, and as bad of shape as yours sounds to be. I had to use a air hammer with a chisel to separate the pipes from the wastegate. Thats how bad it was. I ended up putting a few stress cracks around the wg studs from hammering the thing apart, which warranted a replacement.

Here are two previous threads I started when I was going through my wg rebuild. This should answer most of your questions. I ended up getting most of my gaskets through the dealer, but it looks like www.thepartsbin.com has s few of the gasket you will need. The donut shaped gasket for the wg pipe to cat was bought from www.pelicanparts.com

http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=12178&highlight=exhaust+gaskets

http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=12075&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30

Granted, if you can get the one you have apart without damaging it, you will need a few parts to get it back to good working order.

As far as the valve and seat goes, you can get away with just using some valve lapping compound and a drill to get a good seal. Unless you feel the need for a machine shop to actually cut them, but I didn`t feel it was necessary.

goturbo · Joined: 15 Jun 2004 Posts: 88 Location: Massillon Ohio, USA

Thank you!!!!

I really think that this car was used as a mine buggy in the lake Erie salt mines, everything on the bottom of the car was rusted to the point of 'just cut it off'. Every nut was rusted so badly that they had no flats, they were just rusty bumps.

Anyhow thanks for the links to the threads. That is exactly what I was looking for. As for the valve removal, I don't really think that it needs to come out, I just thought that if it was easy from this point that I would take it out.

I will be sure to use the never seize when this baby goes back together so future service will not be so difficult.

Also, did you cut your 'J' pipe and add a slip collar? I saw in the tech section that it was recommended, but I have read that some folks think that's not needed.

jpab924 · Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 2:10 pm Post subject:

No on the slip collar. The pipe has a previous weld job on the top flange done by a po.

Make sure you use copper nuts on the new studs!

jpab924 · Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 2:23 pm Post subject:

You might even consider a variable boost controller while you`re in there.

A couple of threads on this subject:

http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=9681&highlight=boost+controller

http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=11237&highlight=boost+controller

goturbo · Joined: 15 Jun 2004 Posts: 88 Location: Massillon Ohio, USA

Thanks for the threads. I plan on using the Turbosmart two stage boost controller. It has the complete package. It's a bit pricy but I've played with other stuff and for what that unit does it's a good deal.

On a side note, I ended up making a new bushing for the waste gate. It had a little more slop than I like. I could not have gotten a good seal even if I lapped it. The only thing that I have left to do is surgically remove whats left of the J-pipe stud threads

. That's OK, I have good practice, I had to do the same to the threads on the turbo manifold when I replaced the turbo. The PO had already busted them off for me. But this time, I don't have to do it on my back under the car with all the little chips falling in my mouth, and the slivers in the fingers, such memories. At least I can put this one on the bench anyhow

.

jpab924 · Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2005 3:15 pm Post subject:

cut em out, drill em out, pull out the tap and die. Its always an adventure. My only word of advice: take your time.

Never heard of the turbosmart. Got a link?

goturbo · Joined: 15 Jun 2004 Posts: 88 Location: Massillon Ohio, USA

...dental picks and needle nose pilers-what fun!!!!

Anyhow, check out this link.

http://www.turbosmart.com.au/