924Board.org

[flosho]

Could someone give me a list of tools needed to remove the turbo from my car? I'm going to my uncles house to get the tools to remove the turbo, just need a list so I don't have to go back and forth.

Also, when I "drop the exhaust". I just remove the four bolts off the back of the turbo and the pipe clamps and it will drop down, correct?

Then when I'm removing the oil cooler, (sorta a newb question) do I have to watch for oil spilling out of it?

I have some more questions, but forgot what they were. The main thing is a tool list.
_________________
[This Space For Rent]

[jpab924]

Unfortunately, you always have what you don`t need, and don`t have what you need. Happens to me all the time when I work here at home and my tools are at work.

13+15 mm wobble sockets, regular sockets, wrenches, long and short extensions, propane torch, saftey glasses to keep the crap from falling into your eyes....

You will more than likely need new gaskets also. And take a look at the hose for the bov for cracks/dryrot and replace as necessary.

I can`t tell you whats involved in dropping the turbo, since I havn`t done that myself. It may be possible to remove just by pulling the necessary bits, without having to drop the exhaust, but I`ll let someone else fill you in on that. I`m going to have to do it myself shortly, in order to take care of the oil leak that seems to be coming from the bov housing, and to check to make sure the bov is assembled correctly.

[flosho]

Well my main concern is the oil lines. Do I disconnect the lines AT the oil cooler, and turbo, or just the turbo side, and the big line from the pan to the turbo, which side do i take off(or both?).

Please don't tell me I have to drain the oil too. I just had the oil changed before the timing belt broke, and then when they replaced the head, it was changed. That would make 3 oil changes in 34.3 miles!
_________________
[This Space For Rent]

[Lizard]

Flosho, you can remove/drain the oil and reuse it.

and in regards to the oil lines to the cooler I would recommend removing them off the block side and then just sliding the cooler out of the car entirely.
_________________
3 928s,

[CMXXXI]

To do the job right, you will need to remove the exhaust from the turbo all the way back. It may be possible to leave the rear-most section in place, but I'm not sure that it will save you any time/trouble. Dropping the exhaust also entails un-bracketing the wastegate and it's control line, so it isn't just a 1-2-3 operation.

You WILL need new gaskets, and we all would recommend that you replace all the nuts with copper nuts. The nuts holding the exhaust pipe to the turbo are a special design, a "normal" 10mm nut is too big across-points to turn. Use anti-sieze compound on reassembly

This thread <click> has some info about the exhaust system, and the nuts and gaskets that are needed for the job.

You will have to drain the oil again, but I personally wouldn't re-use it. Unless it's full synthetic, another $10 for new oil is peanuts for this job. Disconnect the oil cooler line at the oil filter adapter and remove the cooler (the threads at the cooler are easily stripped). The sway bar has to come out too in order to remove the turbo once it is completely free.

Although it sounds easy, repacing the turbo with the engine in the car is a royal pain. I'd almost recommend pulling the engine to do it, as the level of effort is just about the same. Then once the engine is on the ground, you have the extra room - not to mention being able to fix a bunch of other stuff you have been putting off.

On reassembly, get the turbo mounted loosly with all bolts started before tightening anything. The "slop" in the bolts is all the wiggle room you will have to get things aligned right. It is tight quarters getting wrenches on some of the bolts. Good luck!!
_________________
'79 Eurospec 931

[Paul]

I still maintain that is almost impossible to properly install a turbo with the motor in the car, in that you cannot use a torque wrench on most of the bolts.

[numbbers]

Well Guys, I have R&R'd my turbo twice, without removing the engine. Four hours out, four hours in. I doubt that you can do the engine that fast.

Flosho, you do not need to drain the oil. Just follow the Haynes exactly. Don't try any shortcuts. When it says remove, REMOVE.

I agree that it is a real PITA. You will need pretty much every tool you have, and probably several you don't have.

In addition to all of the items already stated, make sure that you have four jackstands. Since you are going to be pulling all of the exhaust, you will need both the front and the back of the car off of the ground. The higher, the better.

As already stated, you will need to replace all of the gaskets for the turbo, and the exhaust system. Don't try to reuse any of them, you will just have leaks that will cause you to have to drop the exhaust system again. The gaskets are not cheap, as they all carry Porsche part numbers. I ordered all of mine from Euro-Web, and they were here in two days using standard shipping.

Also, the gaskets vary, depending on which model turbo you are installing. You will need the KKK part number off of the turbo to get the right gaskets. If in doubt weither to use a flat gasket, or a metal o-ring, go with the o-ring, they seal better. You will also need the rubber o-ring that goes between the turbo and the turbo mount. This gasket may not be listed as part of the turbo installation, it may be listed as part of the turbo mount. Don't try a generic o-ring, this is a high heat application, and a generic o-ring will not hold up. This o-ring is the source of much of the oil leaking around the turbo.

There are probably a dozen other things that I have forgot, but I hope this helps.
_________________
1980 924 Turbo

[flosho]

Well, there is NO way I am pulling the engine. It just isn't going to happen, I don't have the ability. So I will be changing it with the engine in.

Ran into a snag today on the oil filter adapter, the top line(from oil cooler to oil adapter) the bolt is frozen on there. Soo, I can just heat it up with a tourch correct? Is that method ok or is there a better method?

Oh yea, I don't have a Haynes book.

So.. I need in terms of gaskets:

Turbo to manifold
Turbo to exhaust(the ring gasket)
Wastegate pipe to manifold


I'm so close to saying F-it and taking it to the semi-local import shop and getting raped. At least then I'd have the exhaust completely off, and the dizzy/charge tube/airbox.


One last thing, what is the site for euro-web?
_________________
[This Space For Rent]

[Paul]

Buy a Haynes manual it will save you many hours!

http://www.eurowebparts.com/

[jpab924]

[CMXXXI]

Depending on the pieces (production run) involved, either the rings should be used or the flat gaskets, but not both. The gasket should seal two metal surfaces, and when you put two gaskets in there (ring-flat gasket) it isn't going to seal the way it is supposed to. Having both the ring and the gasket provides 3 places to leak (at each mating flange and in the ring-gasket mating line).

The turbocharger will have a "recess" on the mainfold flange and/or on the exhaust pipe flange into which the rings fit if it is supposed to use the rings. The manifold will have a recess at the J-tube joint if it is supposed to use one.

Flosho - read this thread <click> that is all about the gaskets - prices, numbers, photos:
Turbo-manifold
Turbo-exhaust
Jtube-manifold
Jtube-wastegate
(possibly) exhaust-cat converter
The US car may need another ring/gasket at the exhaust pipe-to-cat converter joint. Mine's Eurospec so I don't have experience with it.
_________________
'79 Eurospec 931

[Smoothie]

[Lizard]

I dont recommend heating up the oil bolt with a propane torch, try using a drift on the backside and a nice tap from a hammer, then try to loosen, may need to be done a couple times.
_________________
3 928s,

[numbbers]

Well, since the oil filter adapter is aluminum, I don't recommend using a torch to heat the bolt. Aluminum will meld very easily.

Also, if you attempt to R&R the turbo without a Haynes, or the factory 931 supplement, you are in for much misery and expence. This is not a job for a backyard mechanic. If you don't have experience working on cars, I recommend you get assistance from someone familiar with the 931.

Changing the turbo is the second hardest job you can perform on these cars, right after changing the snailshell trans.
_________________
1980 924 Turbo