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spring plate removing.
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2004 7:24 am    Post subject: spring plate removing. Reply with quote

Im replacing all the bearings and seal in the trailing arms..
Have a few questions

Is it hard to remove the spring plate and get it back on
and if I did take them off the get the trailing arms off
couldnt I move them forward or backwards on the torsion
bar a notch to make it sit lower Isnt this called reindexing
the bars.
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1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9132
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2004 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, that's re-indexing the bars. Yes, the spring plates are a PITA to get off sometimes due to corrosion; often they will come out with torsion bars still attached, then you have to hammer the springplate off the t-bar end.

I wouldn't recommend messing with them unless you plan on putting in stiffer t-bars, not worth the effort. It's also harder to get the bars set evenly than unevenly (as in a good chance you'll get the rear end uneven).

The only other thing (than seals and bearings that I would suggest you consider is new bushings for the trailing arms.

I do not usually remove the trailing arm to replace bearings; I just crawl under there and do it, in order to not affect the alignment.
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2004 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do you think. I want to ask the alignment shop that did the front with a computer like machine if they can align the back then Ill maybe reindex the bars when i have the time agian. You just have to make sure the plates are less then 180 degress. Which way would you turn the bar... I
understand very small adjustments are possible. By changing one tooth
on the bar and one tooth on the plate in opposite directions the plate angle is changed by 50'. How much is that exactly.
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1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2004 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Degrees are divided into minutes (') and further divided into seconds (").
A minute is 1/60th of a degree and a second is 1/60th of a minute.
50' would be 50/60 or 5/6 of one degree.
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2004 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoothie got any idea about how much that lowers the car.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2004 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not off the top of my head, but it could be figured out if you have a measurement of the distance between the center point of the torsion bar and the center of the wheel.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2004 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

50' should translate to an approx. 1/4" change in height.
Figured using a 16.5" distance from torsion bar to wheel center, so
16.5" x 2 x 3.1415 = 103.67" circumference
103.67" divided by 360 degrees = 0.288" (this is the height change per degree)
then 5/6 (or .83333) of 0.288" = 0.24"
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
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Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2004 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right on thank you.
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
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Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2004 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whos gonna give me walk thru on reindexing the bars.
lets see rotate the internal by one internal tooth and
rotating the torsion plate in opposite direction by one tooth
and note the relationship of torsion plate/trailing arm flange angle less than 180'.
How do I pry off the plate put the jack on the plate first then pry or can I just pop ot off. How do I mark the position of the plate on the bar.

If I get the feel of this Ill do it. Anyone wanna line my out go ahead.
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1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
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PORSCHEV  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 1901
Location: Cedar Lake Nova Scotia, Canada

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2004 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let me know how you make out Joe....I am looking to drop the ass of my car too. When I put it in the paint booth, it was the first time I could really stand back at a distance and see the back of my car...IT DOES look like a monster truck! I do have 150 lbs of stereo weight to go in yet and the rest of the interior..hoping that brings it down some. If not...I have to do the same as you.
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2004 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im looken to do it pretty soon. Also redo my existing early 944 struts with the loweren heavier spring and cutting off of the lowerer spring housing
so I can add the adjustable ride height kit like paragons site shows with doing this paragons site also has a term for this ...its called the 'high boy' look gotta get rid of that that wont do.

So I need some help with this procedure removing the spring plate and reindexing the bar.
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dgz924s  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 592
Location: Kansas

PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2004 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe ...BTDT.....If you are not tracking the car and only doing this to lower the car I would leave it be and move the eccentric instead. If however you do need more spring replace the T bars. PITA to do for lowering the car for visual purposes only. But you can cut the end of the spring plate off and drill and tap the T bar ends to fit a 3/8 bolt. Install the bolt and release the tension of the trailing arm with a jack then move the t bar out just enough to move the spring plate to the height desired then push the bar back in and you are set.
Many bore a hole in the side of the rear Q panel to access however I did not. I made new end caps to cover the end of the spring plates. Now if I wish to reindex it only takes minutes. If all you want is a crisper more responsive feel I would replace all the bushings and etc. This can be done without moving the spline orientation.
Bottom line.....if not racing do not do it, the stock suspension is very good and really all that is needed is new bushings after 20 years or so. You WILL feel the difference with new bushings alone! Hope this helps! Dal
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2004 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Dal . Though I would like to end up on a track when its all
done the reason is besides the handlen its to high in the back its a highboy.
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1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2004 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Say it isnt a highboy. The front definatly needs it I was always
planen on it .. I never thought Id say it though its grown on me
I lowered it as much as i can with the nut and its not enough
Ive been thinken and I might even cut off the rear inner lip
Id like to have a subtle flair back there close to the edge
to get more clearence. See for yourself.

Itll need the loweren treatment.

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1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.
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PORSCHEV  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 1901
Location: Cedar Lake Nova Scotia, Canada

PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2004 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's intresting..I have never noticed before alot of the 924's don't have removeable plates in the lower quarter panel to access the torsion bars. Mine does have them...although they are behind the rocker side skirst now. I thought they looked ugly anyway.
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