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timstar924 · Joined: 04 Jul 2004 Posts: 284

i have rust on both sides of my roof there are bubbles on my roof on the outside and i removed the interior leather on the roof and there is rust too adn there is rust in between tight spots on in the interiro side that i can't see but i put my finger in there and i can feel rusty metal.... but i can't do anythign about it cus i can't reach it. anyways i want to also remove the entire paint off the exterior of the roof adn fix the rust by sanding and using this rust convertor i got from canadiantire (its called rust check rust convertor it has phoshoric acid in it don't know if it works. Then i will probably have to fill the gashes in the metal fromt he rsut that comes off adn i will have to fill it. i need help on how to do this and do it right. should i get fiberglass auto filler and glazing putty to fill the tiny holes in the metal. i am going to get the black and decker mouse to do this job. i have never really done body work and paint so i need help from you guys to do it properly. Also my paint is a repaint and i don't know how i will get paint to match it or be close to it so it doesn't look redicoulous. i don't car if it doesn't look amazing just good untill i get a full paint job like next year. i want to get can spray paint from lordco or something. my paint is like dark purple.

any help appreciated thanks.

Joes924Racer · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2004 3:14 pm Post subject:

You can handle it just follow all directions and do a search on using the filler there are " How tos" that give pretty good directions to do what your thinking of.
_________________
1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.

timstar924 · Joined: 04 Jul 2004 Posts: 284

i heard fiberglass filler is better than bondo can classing putty that is used to fill in fine scratches on the filler and metal be used on fiber glass filler?

Also can u use the electric sander like the black and decker mouse on the roof or do u have to use a rotary sander? i heard if you donn't know what you are doing you can put big gashes in metal from sanding adn you can warp the metal ont he roof. i'm kinof scared of #### up. Also how long would a job like this take ? i'm guessing 20 hours at least for me.

Lizard · Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 2:54 am Post subject:

you could glass it up and yes that would be better than bondo, however the best way would be to sand it down best as possible or cut it out and weld in a fresh piece of metal but then you are going to be loosing the factory zinc coating on the steel which sounds to be gone anyway though
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3 928s,

hexen84 · Joined: 21 Dec 2003 Posts: 24 Location: Detroit, MI

Even better then bondo or fiberglass (on metal parts) is leading. It's what classic car restorers use to fill in spots. [url]http://www.cheap-auto-parts.com/record0564.html[/url]
It's supposed to be the best way and way more permanent.

-nick · Joined: 16 Nov 2002 Posts: 2699 Location: Cambridge, MA

#1- painting is a royal pain in the @ss! I've gone through every nut and bolt on the car and I would strip and rebuild a car ten times before I go through having to paint one ever again.

I would approach it like this-
use a chemical stripper to strip the roof down to bare metal.
sand off the rust
wipe down with a prep-clean
spray with rust converter (nitric acid)
wipe with prep clean
spray with a self-etching primer
take it to a paint shop to have them finish it!

I'm not exactly sure where the filler question comes from, surface rust shouldn't require any filler. If anything you can use a high-build primer if you need to build up a spot by a small amount.

If you want to paint it yourself you have to keep in mind that you will need a fair sized compressor, a decent HVLP gun, tack cloth, make sure you have a ventilated dust-free area to paint, wet sandpaper (depending on what paint you use), primer, color, clear (or you can use a cheaper non-clear process), buffing compound, buffer, tape, respirator, extreme patience, the list goes on...

After doing it once, you'll understand why paint jobs can easily get to $3-5k for a whole car.

-nick

timstar924 · Joined: 04 Jul 2004 Posts: 284

i wasn't thinking of doing a pro paint job i already have a cheap spray on my car looks good from far but close up you see orange peel and bumbs and stuff but it looks decent. i just wan to get the rust that i can get to on the roof fixed. Ther is rust also on the interior parts of the roof a lot that i can't reach to fix without removing the roof from the car which i can't do. anyways when i press on the roof iwth my elbow i hear crunching sound so it must be more than surface rust in some spots there is also a rust bubble on my roof so i think it will need filler to raise it up after sanding and rust convertor. i am thinking of going ot lordco or canadiantire to just get the closing matching paitn in spray can and just using that as best as i can don' tknow if it will look decent cus i don't have experience with body work and painting. i read you have to get the surface of the area smooth as glass beofore painting ? and then you have to sand between coats? i read you have ot get something like 5 thin coats and sanding between. after paint you have to sand again? not sure also after paint do you need a clear coat and do you have to buff it ?

i just want the roof to be flat and flush and the paitn to stick if it doesn't looks great it doesn' t matter i just want it to be flush and for the paint to stick properly until i get it painted by a pro in like a year.

Also my color is a shiny dark purple so don't know if i can find a can that will be a close match so it doesn't look ridicolous

Lizard · Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 3:10 pm Post subject:

I am also going to be planning on painting my 924 that will be recieving the 928 engine as well however I will be attempting that once I have the engine fitted and know that it will clear and all of the otehr parts fabbed up so I dont have to have a good job in 1 spot and a bad job in another spot
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3 928s,

Joes924Racer · Posted: Sun Jul 18, 2004 5:44 pm Post subject:

paint is cake Im getting a huge shop i can use..Im helping my buddy
Im in charge of the rock thats drywall hanging and finishing. right now it has a pile of 4x8 sheets of drywall on the floor 197 to be exact .. this ones got dreams we got air lines in the walls and all it has an apartment on one end with a nice wrap around deck pretty slick though for paint ing you just have to have the equipment
and do the prep work and buy the paint and additives..just dont get rattle cans and exspect a nice job also for paint get a single stage and if you gonna get a metalic have the right equipment like a building for a gun get one of those gravity feeds I have 2 cup guns ones a devibiss the other is a
cambell hausfield I need a little touch up gun., .. it makes a mess painting does. Though theres nothing like the satisfaction you can get from a nice aplliad paint and rub and polish..some paints dont require a rub and polish and if you try it you end up scratchin the heck out if the finish.. Ive used ppg base coat top coat red with blue pearl that was on a nissan truck I had
finished up sweet then I used nappa clear coat with pealr added I put that over a centari vette red on my 924 then last year I sanded it all down
with the help of a chick named sandy and painted it bahama yellow
used a centari acrylic. The nappa clear didnt take to a rub and polish
I never did wax it though it was tough as nails.... Im gonna repaint some parts and use that clear parts that I wont rub and polish cause its a really tough finish that doesnt chip. Perfect for bumpers ... its pretty glossy too.
you can add gloss to the clear to really make it glossy..compared to the rub and polish of the centari .. a rub and polish is better. cantari or dupont makes a good clear called chromaclear I might try that. go to a paint store and look at there color charts for a match in color.
_________________
1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.

timstar924 · Joined: 04 Jul 2004 Posts: 284

yeah i'm not trying to do a pro job just want the surface to be smootha to fix the rust that i can get to and fill the holles. Then i'm going ot use spray can thats a close match, it might turn out horrible cus of my lack of skills but i wan to make sure i don't warp the roof and that the primer and paint stick properly until i get it painting by a pro like in a year. i just don't feel like leaving the rust for a year and letting it get worse.

Snotzalot