Show full size 924Board.org
Discussion Forum of 924.org
 
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 
 Technical FAQ924 FAQ (Technical)   Technical924 Technical Section   Jump to 924.org924.org   Jump to PCA 924 Registry924 Registry

Harness install.
Goto page 1, 2, 3  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    924Board.org Forum Index -> Performance Upgrades
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2004 8:13 am    Post subject: Harness install. Reply with quote

I bought a blue RJS 5 way belt harness.
Im planning on bolting them in to the stock
side holes down by the floor and bolting the
shoulder harness to the shoulder hole up by
the rear side window. Im just waiting on the mail.
_________________
1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.


Last edited by Joes924Racer on Sat Mar 27, 2004 2:02 pm; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website AIM Address
924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9112
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2004 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The side mounting points, you are correct, use the stock 3-point belt points.

The sub strap needs to be mounted below (1 hole through the floor, it should come with bolts IIRC) and behind the seat. Use large, very large fender washers to distribute the load.

The shoulder harness MUST be mounted directly behind your seat - directly in a line straight back from where the belt sits on your shoulders. The B-pillar IS NOT ACCEPTABLE! You can really F yourself up if you screw this up! Do it right or don't do it at all! Think about the direction of forces when you hit head-on, and decide if you want to be thrown out the window.

What kind of mounting did you choose for the shoulder belts? Presumably bolt-in, or clip-on to eye bolts, that then are bolted in?

I would recommend (in the absence of a roll bar or cage) that you bolt them to the leading edge of the trunk floor. This will minimize the length, thereby minimizing stretch, while providing the closest to horizontal belt routing.

In my car, naturally, I have a cage, with a crossbar behind the shoulders, resulting in very short, horizontally-oriented belts (per the directions). In this case, the belts simply wrap around the bar.

You would have been better off with the 6-point belts; the 2-strap sub belt, in addition to being safer, is easier to install in our cars, as those straps are routed over and also mount at the sides, same point and bolt as the lap belts.

FWIW, I just got my blue 6-point belts back from RJS after being re-webbed... RJS is a few miles away from my house... cost was $50 - which is a good thing, as NASA and SCCA are now requiring belts to be replaced (or rewebbed) every 2 years unless FIA certified. They're also, BTW, going to switch to only allowing 6 and 7-point belts as of 2007.
_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
kaffine  



Joined: 13 Jun 2003
Posts: 644
Location: Las Vegas

PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2004 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where is the 7th belt?
_________________
80 924
80 931

The best desciption of an atom boils down to something unknown is doing we don't know what.
Sir Arthur Eddington
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2004 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Enough belts huh the 7th belt. I got
the bolt in kind. I also used a few feet of 2"
square tubing to remount the seats,welded up
a frame and bolted it to the floor.

So the shoulder straps need to go to the leading
edge of the rear trunk floor and in a straight line
sounds good . Thanks
_________________
1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website AIM Address
924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9112
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2004 10:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, that's the way to go, and if you do later put in a roll bar or cage, you should re-route them to the bar behind the shoulders - shorter length, better angle. Too much of an angle on the belts can compress the spine in an impact.

I think the 7th point is for the sub strap, leading to 3 attachment points for that alone.
_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
jjadczak  



Joined: 03 Jan 2003
Posts: 346
Location: Accokeek, MD

PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2004 2:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ditto what Vaughan says. Do it right or not at all. What type of see is it? That also depends on how you should mount the belts. God forbid it's a stock seat. You need a seat that is really going to hug you and keep you from sliding around. Having the racing harness looks really cool but you got to do it right the first time or you could really hurt yourself if you do write off your car.

I was t-boned in the drivers side door by a 1300 pound super seven. He probably hit me at about 50-60 MPH head on. I obviously wasn't keeping track at the time of how fast he hit me but in a street car with just the shoulder harness I could have easily been killed. It destroyed both our race cars, and gave him a concussion.

I learned a lot about that crash. First, the roll cage probably did more than anything else to save my life. Second, I leaned that IT DOES NOT PAY to buy a cheap seat. We bought a plastic drag racing seat that didn't quite fit me well. We bought it because it was cheap, looked good and was readily available at a local parts store when it came time to put it in our car. The seat flexed so much that it snapped off the bolts that "held" it to the floor. The right side of the seat pushed and bent part of the bell housing. To everyone's surprise the plastic seat did not shatter when the cage pushed into the seat and pushed me over about five to six inches from the door. Third, while the seat contributed to my being sore for two solid weeks, the belts also did their job. The tech inspectors who go over our cars before we go out there may nit pick at times but for the most part their only concern is for our and everyone's safety. Have someone look at it once you have installed the seat and belts. It's ok to have a second opinion or three. They may point out something that you may have overlooked. If you know someone locally, call 'em up and ask them to take a look at the belts. That's it for now. I've been in another racing accident late last season and I can tell you more about that off site. Just email me if you want more info, etc. That's why I have the nickname "P-Rex"

Jeremy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
ryoji  



Joined: 10 Oct 2003
Posts: 168
Location: NNJ

PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2004 2:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SCCA/NASA require a racing harness to be replaced every two years. Does anybody know how long it is good for the street/DE use? How about regular seat belts?

6pt/7pt harness first, or HANS/Hutchens/Issac device first for next step of race safty equipment?
_________________
R.I.P.:a 924 ITA race car
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website AIM Address
AndyFranklin  



Joined: 07 Oct 2003
Posts: 184
Location: Novelty OH

PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2004 3:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have been following the seatbelt stuff - no one really knows the life. In all fairness, there are so many vairables that exact life cannot be predicted.

There has been an interesting thread about H&N restraints on the T1 section of SCCAForums.com. The basic attitude is - if you can't afford one - don't race. I can't disagree with it.

Personally, I don't trust the webbing-based kind (Hutchens ,etc). Ancedotally, it appears within NASCAR that everyone who has crashed wearing the Hutchens has changed to the HANS. The Issacs appears to be well engineered.

Do not pass GO. Do not collect $200. Get a restraint NOW.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail AIM Address
924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9112
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2004 5:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, next step is a 6-point or more belt, if you currently have a 5-point, and a HANS or ISAAC device. Note that, for most belts, you can buy the sub strap separate of the others, and upgrade that way. I would also recommend H+N device first, though I'd expect you could afford to do both (as in, they're not equivalent investments, belts are cheap).

I was quite happy with the utility of my ISAAC device last year when I "used" it... would heartily recommend it. Likewise the HANS is good; they both have their advantages and disadvantages. Anything else, sorry, it's relatively useless IMO.
_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2004 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahh yea thanks guys. So Vaughan or anyone whio knows the lip on the leading edge of the trunk has a lip that the carpet or something slides
under I can notch that for a hook up my question is: What just drill a hole thru and crawl underneath to get a bolt thru and washer it up centered behind the seat somewhere close to the edge. I made a strong seat frame out of 2" tubing.
_________________
1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website AIM Address
Lizard  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 9364
Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada

PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2004 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

with how hard it is to drop the tank in the snailshell cars, I would just drop the tank, and then weld in a extra thick piece of steel then drill the holes through that for the seatbelts,
_________________
3 928s,
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I posted this early tonight though forgot the pic. I was
talken and trying to do this. Drop the tank and weld in a tube no thats alot of silly work.
Theres circle A. thats close to the lip or maybe a little lower
then theres hole B. a existing hole that takes a rubber plug
I think I should make a hole center mass in the region below
cirlce A. Or I could make a slot feed the belt thru and use the
bolt from the top shock mount.



Or on here somewhere?

_________________
1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website AIM Address
924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9112
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2004 11:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neither of the two spots you've circled in the first picture have substantial strength. You want to go to the very front edge of the trunk - right where that wiring harness is snaking behind. If you have the option of adding reinforcement (which would be good), a plate welded in there (the bigger the better, stitch-welded around the perimiter) would be a very good idea. Even better, if you can use a piece of angle iron on the trunk edge itself - just grind off the lip that's there.

However, of course, you're recommended to remove the fuel tank if doing any of this welding, as it snugs up under that sheetmetal (trunk floor).
_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2004 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My welding guy wont weld on any part still on the car .
He will weld pipe tubing and cut anything any way I want it
done. How about a piece of angle iron and a flat piece used
as a bun with the trunk floor the fillerand I bolt it in for awhile.
Wonder how long to make the bun? Say 8" and I can double bolt
it.
_________________
1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website AIM Address
Alex Roy  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 694
Location: Springfield Oregon USA

PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2004 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why don't you get one of those harness bars that bolts between the stock seatbelt mounting points on the "B" pillars?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    924Board.org Forum Index -> Performance Upgrades All times are GMT + 10 Hours
Goto page 1, 2, 3  Next
Page 1 of 3

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group