924Board.org

[nobbyknownowt]

OK
I got a noise which i am struggling to identify.
I would suspect a bearing but it's not a knock its more of a grind.
Comes on at about 30mph.
Continues to increase with speed.
Free wheeling does nothing to change the noise
None of the hubs heat up after a run
Have had a grope around underneath and I can move the nearside rear shaft a fraction and i mean only a fraction.
Now should I buy a CV kit or a bearing set (and a 36mil socket) before i strip it down???
Also how easy is it? The idea of jacking the car up by a socket handle to get at the bearing as suggested frankly worries me. (Also how do you torque it back to 350ft/lb???)
thanks
nobby

[Chrenan]

"Also how do you torque it back to 350ft/lb???"

Torque Multiplier...
_________________
1987 951 - M193 Version for Japan

[gohim]

Make sure that it is not worn out brakes signaling the need for replacement before you go directly to bearing or cv joint replacement.

If you are not sure of when the cv axles were last serviced (inspected and repacked with grease) this would be a good time todo this. But cv lubricantion problems usually show up as a clicking noise, not a grinding.

Grinding noises (when they are not brake related) are usually the wheel bearing telling you it is past time for service or replacement. With a 924S or 944 with alloy trailing arms, the rear wheel bearings are sealed, and grinding means bearing replacement time. Earlier Series 1 924 cars (76-85) with steel trailing arms you can repack the rear wheel bearings with freash grease if they are not damaged (from running out of grease) or worn out.

I recommend that you get a couple of tubes or tubs of good synthetic grease (you will need more than one 14 ounce tub or tube so get two). Make sure that it is cv joint compatible (I have been using Valvoline Synthetic for over six years now with good results). You should also buy replacement grease seals for the trailing arms, and inspect (and order replacements if necessary) for the rubber boots on the cv axles, before you go to do this service/inspection procedure.

To get the axle nuts off, you will need a air-impact wrench, or a heavy duty socket flex handle, and extension bar, and a 36mm axle wrench (most vw shops have these priced reasonably).

[nobbyknownowt]

OK
I got the trailing arms off ( much swearing, think they been untouched for 20 years). The wheel hubs were the easiest bit so they were not torqued last time brakes were done.
The bearings seem fine to me. There is plenty of grease still in there.
The drive shaft has the slightest play but any tighter and getting it through the bearings would be a real problem.
Brakes have plenty of wear left in them.
CV seem tight although I cannot find a tool to get em off. (What do you call the tool for removal? Thought it was star bit but what I got t40 / t45 fits the hole but does not have the required teeth to get a decent purchase.)
Unless anyone has any other targets I am going to pack everything up with grease and see awhat happens next.
watch this space
cheers
Greasy, oily and jiggered
Nobby

[MAAS]

CV's make a very distinctive clicking sound. Bearings make more of a dull quiet roar.

By the way, if it is the bearings, it can be very difficult to actually figure out which side the worn bearings are on. Do not be fooled by where you think it may be coming from. Unless it's very very obvious, you need to use a stethoscope with the car running on secure jacks.

How do I know this? Well, because I had a bearing noise coming from the rear right side. So I went ahead and got the rear right bearings replaced. Only to still have the sound. I concluded that it had to be part of the tranny, so I was about to opt for a tranny rebuild. Fortunately, the manager of the transmission shop [Peter Wille at Victoria Automatic, Victoria, BC] is a keen Mopar race guy, and he didn't think it was the tranny and said that it could be the bearings on the other side that were vibrating through parts af the car... making it sound like it was coming from the opposite side.

Well, he was right, and saved me a pile of money.


-MAS

[nobbyknownowt]

hmmmm!
which to go for?
Both bearings appear unbroken and run smoothly. Both trailing arms were full of grease.
1 came off the drive shaft with no problems at all and no need for force.
1 stuck (almost rusted) to the drive shaft and required a puller to get it off.
may sound daft but which ones jiggered???????
cheers
nobby

[Lizard]

while you are in there anyway you can pull the bearings (requires a C-clip puller, and then clean them completely off and look for pitting, if any have pitting replace that bearing and then when you are done repack the bearings and then reinstall wil alot of extra grease, consider sanding any rust off the shaft which the hub attachs too and chasing the threads with a tap, when you reinstall put some oil on the threads, and torque it on with a 4 foot cheater bar, (have someone in the car with there foot on the brakes so you can do this)
_________________
3 928s,