924Board.org

stamp · Joined: 21 Jan 2004 Posts: 50 Location: Springfield, Or

I recently had a fuel relay go out on me, as I was going through the troubleshooting steps, I found that the pump does work, even better than with the old relay before it was going out. my pump now stays on all of the time.

My question is this, would this relay cause hard starts? Right now I have the cold start valve disconnected and also the presure regulator??? and my car start in about 3 cranks...

Another question is that I noticed that when I got my car home the other night only drove it less than 8 miles. but there is a lot of excess oil in the air box and its leaking out the air intake ( fresh air )

Could I have possibly hooked one of the oil lines up incorrectly when I was reinstalling them?? I did not take them off myself so I'm guessing by the way the pipes are bent that its correct... having doubts about it now...

Also, how do I get my idle down??? I've looked for this adjustment... and can not find it. I've loosened up the throtle cable to the point that there is no tension on the line. I have noticed that when I push down on the MAF (mass air flow??) sensor that the idle does drop??? am I getting close??

thanks again this has been a real learing experience for me..

Stamp

Smoothie · Posted: Thu Sep 23, 2004 7:24 am Post subject:

idle speed -
<click>

_________________
"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."

'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

CMXXXI · Joined: 05 Nov 2002 Posts: 1939 Location: Vicksburg, MS

The pump should run after turning the key to the "On" position for just a few seconds, then should turn off if the car doesn't start until you "recycle" the key. Once the engine starts to run, the relay gets a signal from the ignition system telling it that the car is running, and it continues to power the pump. Unless your old relay wasn't giving juice to the pump for that initial few seconds, I doubt if the relay was the cause of your hard starts.

The cold start injector should inject fuel into the intake manifold for a few seconds as you turn the key (and shortly thereafter), helping enrich the mixture for the initial start. It is wired into the thermo-time switch, and will turn off once things get going. If this 5th injector has been unplugged, or it isn't getting power as it should, it could be (part of) the reason for hard starts.

The pressure regulator (AKA warm-up regulator [WUR]) also receives power during initial start up from the thermo-time switch. The WUR is instrumental in keeping the mixture correct for your car, and if you've unplugged it, that is a good candidate for (at least part of) the reason you're having hard starts.

All the bits and pieces of the CIS system have to work together. If one fails, or you disconnect one, it does not mean you can't "tweak" the rest of the system to make things work, but they won't work correctly, you will only be masking a problem.

As for the excess oil in the air box, have you checked to see that the oil separator return line is not blocked? The canister should condense oil vapors and drain them back to the sump. Mine's a Euro and does not have the canister, so I can't tell you specifically what needs to be pulled and looked at to see if it needs cleaning out. If you have oil "pooling" in the air box, my guess is that yes something needs cleaning out.

Idle adjustment... a little different than Smoothie's photo. Item "D" in the photo below. Click for larger image:

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'79 Eurospec 931

924RACR · Posted: Thu Sep 23, 2004 8:47 am Post subject:

Ah yes... Smoothie's shown the later (81-82) idle adjustment, whereas CMXXXI shows the early/euro 79-80 adjustment, I believe... I have only the later cars...
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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
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stamp · Joined: 21 Jan 2004 Posts: 50 Location: Springfield, Or

thanks for the help. I will have to wait for a new fuel relay for right now. as it is working now I have a switch inplace that I have to turn on for the pump with a standard 8A fuse. so far starts on the first turn of the key and with in about 2 sec. so I'm happy

in the mean time I get to enjoy looking at either repairing my current brakes or upgrading them. going to do a little research on the upgrades as I've seen a few posts a while back.

have any good suggestions (as if there are bad ones

) on where to start with the Idle,??? all the way in and then 1/4 - 1/8 turns to help set idle??? or start with it out?? I don't have an external tach, so I'm going to have to rely on whats already in there.

CMXXXI · Joined: 05 Nov 2002 Posts: 1939 Location: Vicksburg, MS

I'd start with ensuring your timing is set correctly, and you have no air and/or vacuum leaks. Then if you have access to a gas analyzer, make sure the air/fuel mix is right, then mess with the idle setting. The timing and ultimate mixture settings will effect your idle, so if you adjust your idle to your liking and then at a later time adjust the timing/mixture, it will throw off the idle again. Do it in sequence, do it right and you will only have to do it one time.

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'79 Eurospec 931

Smoothie · Posted: Fri Sep 24, 2004 9:30 am Post subject:

Stamp - What model year 931 do you have? - I just realised something interesting concerning idle setting on the '81-up models. Look at my second post here - http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=12808
_________________
"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."

'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

stamp · Joined: 21 Jan 2004 Posts: 50 Location: Springfield, Or

Smoothie: the body is 80 924 Turbo. the engine is '81 924 turbo. have aftermarket starter, alt, coil, cap, roter, wires. I think that its all good. it did have the a/c option cept when the p/o of said engine decided to remove it, he cut the ac hoses and oil lines and left me the stubs. the engine got a fresh rebuild before sitting in a shop for about 3 yrs. I put on a new timing belt before the engine was installed, verified TDC on cyl 1.

Currently its running very rich, I attribute it to cleaning out the injectors and the fuel lines. However I would like to lean out the mixture and bring down the idle as it sits its about 2k

Hope that this helps
Stamp

Smoothie · Posted: Fri Sep 24, 2004 12:22 pm Post subject:

So some major alterations were made... To determine what ignition system you have, look under the dash behind the radio to see if there's a DITC box and it's connections there like in this pic - http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/smoothies931pics/detail?.dir=/a174&.dnm=39ef.jpg
Also take a look at the distributor. The distributor for a DITC equipped car won't have the vacuum advance actuators and won't have small wires coming out the side just below the dist cap.
_________________
"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."

'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

stamp · Joined: 21 Jan 2004 Posts: 50 Location: Springfield, Or

purchased an 80 dist with vaccum advance. car wiring is 80, no DITC behind radio, just alarm box. the only thing in the car thats `81 is the engine, all wiring to engine is 80.

for right now, it will be trial and error to bring down the richness of the fuel. still getting black smoke while stepping on it.. still searching for steps to lean out the fuel mixture. have set timing to 10 deg BTDC as per haynes. and it starts rather smoothly with out the cold start valve and with out the WUR unit. until I can order the correct fuel relay and have the time to put it in, I think that for now these two options will be left off. Granted my MPG may not be where it could be at...

WIll post pics when I get my camera charged again