924Board.org

[david_bryan]

I have a 80' 924 with a start-up problem, that the mechanics have given up on. I took it to the shop, becuase i could only get it to turn over as long as i was turning the key. So i took it in and after a week of checking all he could come up with was a bad cold start sensor (i think thats what it was called). After that it started sometimes and other times i wouldent turn over no matter what. Now (2 weeks later) i can get it to start for about 10 seconds and then it dies, if i touch the gas at all while turing the key or while the engine is running, then it immediatly dies. And when it dies, i can't start it back up for about 15 minutes. So i need some help (or a new mechanic). Thanks Guys

[bryanc]

What have you done so far?
Since you need fuel, a spark, timing and compression for an engine to run I would suggest you check the easiest thing first. When it quits and won't restart, do you still get spark at the plugs?
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'84 944
I'd rather have a bottle in front a' me than a frontal lobotomy
Tom Waits

[endwrench]

Go find yourself a mechanic who is familiar with Bosch CIS injection. Any good VW mechanic will be able to diagnose your problem. It sounds to me you need a Warm up regulator. Does it run and start OK after you get it warmed up?

Todd

[Lizard]

Endwrench is correct get a mechanic who is frequent with CIS injection, VA, Audi and mechadies used it, or if you wish to takle this yourself I am sure that we could offer some suggestions, just ask,

I personally would recommend that you make sure that the fuel pump is running, when key in on position, if not remove the fuel pump relay and jump terminals #30 and #87 and make sure that the fuel pump is on if it is then try and start it.
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3 928s,

[gohim]

It is possible that while you were trying to get the car to run, that you got the idle speed, and mixture screws so far out of adjustment that the car is not going to start and run. Bad vacuum lines can cause slow deterioration in idle speed that people compensate for by tweeking the idle speed and mizture until the day comes that the car will not start and run.

I would start over at the beginning, checking the basics to make sure that there isn't a problem.

First check every vacuum line on the engine to make sure that they are all properly installed, and in good condition. Set the idle mixture to 2 1/2 turns out from being screwed all the way in. Check the camshaft belt tension, and the belt timing. Now check the distributor ignition timing (with the distributor cap off, rotate the engine to TDC on the flywheel, and make sure that the rotor points to the #1/TDC mark on the distributor).

Check the auxilary air valve to make sure that it is open if the engine is cold. Put the distributor cap back on, pull a spark plug wire, and plug it into a spare spark plug. Hold the spark plug close to a chassis bolt, and have a "helper" turn the key to start position, and watch for a nice health blue spark. No spark means you have a problem in the ignition system (possibly a defective pick up module inside of the distributor).

If you get the nice spark, then you need to check the fuel system. Pull one of the fuel injectors up, and stuff it into a tall bottle. Remove the air filter housing, and air filter. Turn the ignition key to the run position. Reach inside of the air filter housing, and gently raise the air flow sensor arm. You should be able to see the fuel injector firing in a fan shaped pattern. No fuel? You probably have a defective fuel pump or fuel pump relay. The 1980 and later cars have two fuel pumps (one under the car at the fuel tank, and one side of the fuel tank). Both pumps need to be working properly.

[Vince Ponz]

Check the fuel pressure first. If the pressure releases put in a new check valve and while under the car check the accummulators for leaks.
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"Never let them see you sweat"
77.5 924 modified track car
79 931 Euro stock
88 924S SE
87 911 Targa stock