924Board.org

Hotrod2go · Joined: 18 Nov 2003 Posts: 43 Location: Arizona City, AZ

After having fun driving the 924, 1980, for 2 weeks....it died. Just quit going down the road. Well, after some agravation I find that the timing gear locating pin on the crank has sheared and the bolt was loose. DAMN! Anyway, so smart me takes it apart and pulls the one half from the pulley and proceeds to try to pull the other half from the crank. No luck. To make a long story short, I now have a broken easyout in the crank. Anybody have an idea how to remove the *!#@ thing short of pulling the crank???? Thanks in advance for the assist..

-Dumb Phil
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Lizard · Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2004 2:13 am Post subject:

ouch, I am thinking it might be the easiest thing to pull the crank, other than then you are going to be stuck drilling it out
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3 928s,

Smoothie · Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2004 2:14 am Post subject:

Hey Dumb Phil -
Stop callin' yourself that. Plenty seemingly smart folk got the same problem. Look here - http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=9809
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."

'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

Lizard · Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2004 2:37 am Post subject:

yah not all of us check over every bolt on the car me included, vaughan excluded, or at least for the track car
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3 928s,

Roger · Joined: 06 Jan 2003 Posts: 1235 Location: Cordova, TN

Break out the drill.
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1981 924 NA

Some people are like Slinkies. Not really good for anything, but you
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dpw928 · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 1860 Location: owasso, ok 74055

I understand they make a reverse twist drill bit for this situation. Make sure it has a hardened tip.

Dennis
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81 931 5 sp
78 928 5 sp Silver
78 928 AT Euro Black

Mikri184 · Joined: 12 Sep 2003 Posts: 746 Location: Ferndale, WA

Sorry to hear about the bad deal, but if all else fails. I have a good Crank for you.

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welder · Joined: 16 May 2003 Posts: 158 Location: cumberland,maine

Hotrod, Not Good. You can't drill an easyout cause they are carbide, or at least tool hardned steel. You must back out the easy out, you could use a chisle and hammar and slowly tap it counter-clockwise to start it back out, if it is fluted and there are spaces along side you might insert a tap extractor and be able to reverse it out. If every thing else fails and it's Really stuck, if you know someone (very experenced) with a cutting torch, it is possible to melt it out but thats a last resort and can result in damaging the crank bolt threads. The perfect solution is a EDM machine that electricly removes taps and broken drill bits. Sometimes they are portable and can be used any where, although most are stationary and would require removing the crank but it could still be salvaged. You should contact a good machine shop about this problem cause this is more commom than you think and just part of a days work for a good machinist. Your best advice will probably come from a machine shop. The EDM machine would melt only the easy out without damaging the crank by using a very thin wire and a very high electric current. It would probably cost about 75 bucks give or take. Don't break stuff off in threaded holes!! ( it's happened to all of us very common)
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I have a 78 n\a currently under restoration.

welder · Joined: 16 May 2003 Posts: 158 Location: cumberland,maine

Hotrod, Not Good. You can't drill an easyout cause they are carbide, or at least tool hardned steel. You must back out the easy out, you could use a chisle and hammar and slowly tap it counter-clockwise to start it back out, if it is fluted and there are spaces along side you might insert a tap extractor and be able to reverse it out. If every thing else fails and it's Really stuck, if you know someone (very experenced) with a cutting torch, it is possible to melt it out but thats a last resort and can result in damaging the crank bolt threads. The perfect solution is a EDM machine that electricly removes taps and broken drill bits. Sometimes they are portable and can be used any where, although most are stationary and would require removing the crank but it could still be salvaged. You should contact a good machine shop about this problem cause this is more commom than you think and just part of a days work for a good machinist. Your best advice will probably come from a machine shop. The EDM machine would melt only the easy out without damaging the crank by using a very thin wire and a very high electric current. It would probably cost about 75 bucks give or take. Don't break stuff off in threaded holes!! ( it's happened to all of us very common)
_________________
I have a 78 n\a currently under restoration.

welder · Joined: 16 May 2003 Posts: 158 Location: cumberland,maine

Hotrod, Not Good. You can't drill an easyout cause they are carbide, or at least tool hardned steel. You must back out the easy out, you could use a chisle and hammar and slowly tap it counter-clockwise to start it back out, if it is fluted and there are spaces along side you might insert a tap extractor and be able to reverse it out. If every thing else fails and it's Really stuck, if you know someone (very experenced) with a cutting torch, it is possible to melt it out but thats a last resort and can result in damaging the crank bolt threads. The perfect solution is a EDM machine that electricly removes taps and broken drill bits. Sometimes they are portable and can be used any where, although most are stationary and would require removing the crank but it could still be salvaged. You should contact a good machine shop about this problem cause this is more commom than you think and just part of a days work for a good machinist. Your best advice will probably come from a machine shop. The EDM machine would melt only the easy out without damaging the crank by using a very thin wire and a very high electric current. It would probably cost about 75 bucks give or take. Don't break stuff off in threaded holes!! ( it's happened to all of us very common)
_________________
I have a 78 n\a currently under restoration.

welder · Joined: 16 May 2003 Posts: 158 Location: cumberland,maine

UH.. sorry about the triple post, not sure what screwed up.
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I have a 78 n\a currently under restoration.

Hotrod2go · Joined: 18 Nov 2003 Posts: 43 Location: Arizona City, AZ

Thanks Everyone. I took the car to a machine shop familiar with Porsche and they are removing it.............hopefully. I tried to use a chisel and back it out but it is broken below the surface with nothing to grab... Wish me luck!

-Phil, (Hotrod)
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"Get In, Sit Down, Hold On AND SHUTUP!"

Hotrod2go · Joined: 18 Nov 2003 Posts: 43 Location: Arizona City, AZ

Well, here it is.... more than a week later and still no car. Machine shop has been "busy" and what they have tried has been unsuccessful in removing the broken pin/ezout. I am thinking it is time to bring the car home and pull the crank. I am thinking of replacing it if anyone has a good used one that is ready for use??? (and not too much $$$). Are there any "tricks" to pull the sucker? I would like to pull the crank while still in the car if possible...or is this not a great idea/possible? This is again a 1980 924 (2.0).

Thanks for the help. -Phil
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"Get In, Sit Down, Hold On AND SHUTUP!"

Lizard · Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2004 7:54 am Post subject:

save yourself a headache and pull the engine, the flywheel is attached to it and the clutch spline with mess it up, so just pull the engine and might as well the the bearings while there
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3 928s,

Hotrod2go · Joined: 18 Nov 2003 Posts: 43 Location: Arizona City, AZ

I was afraid you'd say that! What a PITA! Thanks for the info though!!
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"Get In, Sit Down, Hold On AND SHUTUP!"