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Roger
Joined: 06 Jan 2003
Posts: 1235
Location: Cordova, TN
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 Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2003 2:21 pm Post subject: Thremostat gone bad |
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The car has been running hot and I have found it impossible to properly bleed the cooling system. It also seemed that the car was loosing coolant. There was no coolant in the oil so I did a compression test and it came out fantastic 160, 161, 160, 161.
I decided to replace the water pump and thermostat. When I opened the thremostat housing I found the problem. The thremostat came out in two peices, and two peices of metal are missing. The missing peices are probably floating around the cylinder head. It appears from the wear and tarnish that they came off some time ago so I am not going to worry about them.
Good news is that I found the problem and I dont have to replace the water pump. I love the easy fixes. bad news is that one of the bolts on the thermostat housing was rusted and snapped. Its now soaking in liquid wrench hopefully I will be able to get it out tomorrow. If not I will have to drill it out and tap it.
I had heard stories of problems with a snap ring but mine doesn't have one. Maybe that was on the 944.
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1981 924 NA
Some people are like Slinkies. Not really good for anything, but you
still can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs. |
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leadfoot
Joined: 11 Dec 2002
Posts: 2222
Location: gOLD cOAST Australia
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| Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2003 4:44 pm Post subject: |
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i have had a problem with the thermostat before, it seems with age the spring rusts out and the flow through the head stops.
leadfoot... |
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Sleykin
Joined: 30 Apr 2003
Posts: 758
Location: Medford, Oregon USA
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| Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2003 1:25 pm Post subject: |
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If you have to drill that bolt out get some left hand drillbits and try those. Many times the heat and vibration combined with a good penetrating oil (I like Kroil) will make it just unscrew as you are drilling it out. Use antisieze on all water jacket bolts or steel into aluminum bolts.
And yeah ... the snap ring problem is on the 924S and 944 waterpump. The t-stat is in the waterpump on those and a right b*&ch to replace. Then they have about 4 different styles of pump/gasket/t-stat/spacer combinations to really muddy the waters. Sure was glad I was changing the water pump when I replaced the T-stat on mine.
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Glenn Neff
Medford, OR
87' 924S |
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Roger
Joined: 06 Jan 2003
Posts: 1235
Location: Cordova, TN
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| Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2003 2:25 pm Post subject: |
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I was able to remove the bolt with a pair of Vise Grips thanks to Dad soaking the thing in Liquid Wrench all day while I was at work.
I have read about the left hand drills the idea seems good and some day I am sure I will get a chance to test it out.
I have learned to love anti-seize compound. I prefer the copper based stuff.
Next on the agenda is an injector test.
Then this weekend I have to work on the daughters Mazda.
Replace a CV Boot
Front brake pads
Front and Rear Struts
Engine Mounts
Then I will pull the dash out of the Intrepid and replace the evaporator.
The parts guy is gonna love me.
_________________
1981 924 NA
Some people are like Slinkies. Not really good for anything, but you
still can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs. |
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rockola
Joined: 22 Sep 2003
Posts: 20
Location: Espoo, Finland
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| Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2003 7:44 pm Post subject: |
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| Sleykin wrote: | | If you have to drill that bolt out get some left hand drillbits and try those. |
This reminds me: A while ago, one of the thermostat housing bolts on mine broke when I was opening it. Long story short, don't use a bolt extractor unless you're absolutely sure you're not going to break it in the broken bolt, because it'll be that much harder when you go and have the housing drilled and re-tapped by someone who has the right tools for the job and knows what they're doing. I guess the same warning would apply to a left hand drill bit. Plus, to get the thermostat housing out for the drilling, practically everything except for the radiator forward from it has to be taken out as well. Still, it's much more fun to learn these things working on a Porsche than working on a Toyota.
The reason I was opening it was the same as yours: car running hot, cooling system not being bled properly (never saw any bubbles coming out). I didn't get it fixed yet though, changed the thermostat but nothing happened. Will have to think of something else when I get around to working on it again (thanks to everyone who gave me tips on this a while ago, I'll be sure to go through the postings again before I break something else on my own...)
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1984 indischrot 924 |
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Sleykin
Joined: 30 Apr 2003
Posts: 758
Location: Medford, Oregon USA
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| Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2003 8:57 am Post subject: |
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| rockola wrote: | | Sleykin wrote: | | If you have to drill that bolt out get some left hand drillbits and try those. |
This reminds me: A while ago, one of the thermostat housing bolts on mine broke when I was opening it. Long story short, don't use a bolt extractor unless you're absolutely sure you're not going to break it in the broken bolt, because it'll be that much harder when you go and have the housing drilled and re-tapped by someone who has the right tools for the job and knows what they're doing. I guess the same warning would apply to a left hand drill bit. Plus, to get the thermostat housing out for the drilling, practically everything except for the radiator forward from it has to be taken out as well. <snip> |
That is the reason for the left hand drill. Hopefully it will avoid the necessity of using an easy out. A drill bit is much easier to remove than an extractor. A couple more things that work some times ... If the bolt is in aluminum, make a dam out of some type of putty and soak it in hydrogen peroxide. It will attack the steel and leave the aluminum. If there is any bolt sticking out put a washer and nut on top of it and weld the nut to the broken stub.
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Glenn Neff
Medford, OR
87' 924S |
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