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n4bbq
Joined: 03 Jul 2003
Posts: 10
Location: Dahlonega, Ga
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 Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2003 9:23 am Post subject: 1981 931 Update - WUR Photos (100k) & Questions |
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Ok,
I have removed the WUR after measuring the resistance of the coil (which was 10 ohms). I figured something was rotten because the resistance is about 1/2 what it should be. I pulled the WUR (whew) and disassembled it, Now, there is a contact inside that when opened, causes the coil to read purt-near perfect. This is adjustable from inside. I have attached a photo and all I had to do was barely touch the relay and it went perfect. What are your thoughts?
http://168.8.96.77/images/wur_1.jpg
http://168.8.96.77/images/wur_2.jpg |
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Lizard
Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 9364
Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada
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| Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2003 10:58 am Post subject: |
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hmmmmm. interesting,
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3 928s, |
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John Brown
Joined: 07 Nov 2002
Posts: 903
Location: Leesburg VA
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| Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2003 10:54 pm Post subject: |
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check the part number. That may not be the correct control pressure regulator.
They are a bear to get at aren't they! |
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positivesale
Joined: 12 Nov 2002
Posts: 126
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| Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2003 8:32 am Post subject: Re: 1981 931 Update - WUR Photos (100k) & Questions |
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| n4bbq wrote: | Ok,
I have removed the WUR after measuring the resistance of the coil (which was 10 ohms). I figured something was rotten because the resistance is about 1/2 what it should be. I pulled the WUR (whew) and disassembled it, Now, there is a contact inside that when opened, causes the coil to read purt-near perfect. This is adjustable from inside. I have attached a photo and all I had to do was barely touch the relay and it went perfect. What are your thoughts?
http://168.8.96.77/images/wur_1.jpg
http://168.8.96.77/images/wur_2.jpg |
If you do put it back together and try it, I'd put some loc tite on that nut if that's what you are adjusting.. Maybe these things rattle loose with heat and age?
There is another half that is either permanently sealed (the red paper gasket part, if I remember correctly) that has a bunch of seals in it and possibly o-rings that go hard. But I don't remember if it's permanently closed with those melted metal or pressed metal connections ( I think i had to bust mine open, as opposed to there being nuts on it).
If you do put it back together and try it, please let us know if the adjustment cured your problem. If it doesn't seem to fix it, I'd say the seals are hard in the other half inside near the sandwiched red paper gasket.
Did you take the manifold off, or were you able to squeeze allen keys in there to get the WUR off without taking the manifold off?
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n4bbq
Joined: 03 Jul 2003
Posts: 10
Location: Dahlonega, Ga
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| Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2003 12:01 pm Post subject: |
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Ok..
I have finished some testing on the WUR after my tweak. Now, it is showing the nominal 25 ohms when cold. I apply 12 vdc and my amp meter shows about .5 amps. This continues for about 2 minutes when it gets hot enough to close the relay and then the current goes up around an amp.
I remove the voltage source and it takes 4 minutes for it to return to 25 ohms from 10 ohms (relay opens).
Does anyone else have a known working WUR that can verify my units times...?
Also, I removed the coil and a vacuum assembly only. I did not have to remove the manifold. It really wasn't too bad a job. It took about 15-20 minutes I guess by the time I chased down a couple of tools I'd forgotten to get to begin with...
Last edited by n4bbq on Thu Jul 17, 2003 2:27 am; edited 1 time in total |
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CMXXXI
Joined: 05 Nov 2002
Posts: 1939
Location: Vicksburg, MS
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| Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2003 1:24 am Post subject: |
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You can get the WUR off without removing the manifold. It is a tight squeeze even with the coil removed, with the cable to the heater valve and all the water hoses back there. You will need a socket-mounted hex key and a short extension, and will not want to try and remove it with a hot engine. I found the hardest part being, hooking back up the fuel lines and not losing the copper washers while trying to get the banjo-bolts screwed back in. I recommend having a couple extras on hand in case you lose one back behind the motor (2 different sizes too). Oh, and last thing, you'll want to re-attach the bottom fuel line first, and make sure you tighten it up leak free, as it is practically impossible to get a wrench on it after the top fuel line fitting is in place.
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'79 Eurospec 931 |
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924martinirossi
Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 605
Location: Seattle, Washington, USA
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| Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2003 4:54 am Post subject: |
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What year is your car?
Michael |
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CMXXXI
Joined: 05 Nov 2002
Posts: 1939
Location: Vicksburg, MS
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| Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2003 7:34 am Post subject: |
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Thread topic says it all - "1981 931 Update - WUR Photos (100k) & Questions" 
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'79 Eurospec 931 |
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924martinirossi
Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 605
Location: Seattle, Washington, USA
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| Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2003 8:03 am Post subject: |
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Damm............I'm getting old.
I currently do not have any of your type of WUR fixed right now or elso I'd send you one!
Michael |
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