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new valve problem
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Sleykin  



Joined: 30 Apr 2003
Posts: 758
Location: Medford, Oregon USA

PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2003 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You did recondition the valve and seat so they match right?? Or at the very least lapped the new valve into the old seat? Of course you checked installed height and made sure it was in tollerance. You checked valve stem diameter with a mic and compared it to the valve guide and then used a DTI to check for play? If the installed height is wrong it won't close. If the stem to guide clearance is too tight it won't close reliably. If the valve seat or valve is slightly out of round it won't seal. If the angle of the valve faces and the valve seat are not precisely matched it will not seal.
All that aside. You don't care where the dizzy points when you are setting valve timing. #1 to TDC (use a dowle or TDC stop) both valves closed and the timing marks on the cam sprocket and the mark on the head aligned?
Yes to all ... ya got no rings left and I'm just a grouchy old grampa tonight
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Glenn Neff
Medford, OR
87' 924S
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924ttrouble  



Joined: 27 Feb 2003
Posts: 59
Location: Lacey, Washington

PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2003 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now that doesn't sound to good!!!! New question how do you check the ignition switch? Fuel pump relay pin 15and 31 energizes the relay when you turn on the key which in turn will send the voltage from pin 30 to 87 which will turn on the fuel pump pin 15 has no voltage on it when I turn on the key. could this be a bad ignition moduler and when I turn the key to start everything dies and then comes back on.
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