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931 valve adjustment-tips, tricks and while you're in there

 
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chuck21401  



Joined: 20 Feb 2005
Posts: 611
Location: Annapolis, MD

PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2026 9:36 am    Post subject: 931 valve adjustment-tips, tricks and while you're in there Reply with quote

My car is due for a valve adjustment.

I have the Haynes Manual and factory workshop manual PDFs. I've read through several threads here and watched some YouTube videos so I'm ready to give it a shot.

I know that I'll need a gasket set. With my car I'll need to drain the intercooler...not a big deal...but I'm also thinking about what I should do while that is removed.

I've read about the plastic elbow at the cam oil tube, part number PCG115708 (also found old part number PCG115707). Seems like that is something to change while I'm there.

I'm thinking about replacing the spark plugs, last set was installed January 2019...7 years ago already. I'm running NGK B8EGV but it looks like those are NLA.

Anything else?

Any particular tips in terms of the valve adjustment itself? Also probably time for a new feeler gauge...any recommendations? Offset, straight or doesn't matter?


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1981 Porsche 931 w/S1 engine & euro g31 transaxle. Water-cooled intercooler


Last edited by chuck21401 on Thu Apr 02, 2026 1:17 am; edited 1 time in total
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 2814
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2026 5:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also run those B8EGV, check them out and clean them, might not be worn if you havent driven it much. I think the BR8EIX and BR8EG are the replacements nowdays, but im not fully deep into the current plugs, the regular non racing ones are the B8ES, probably would also work.

Regarding the valve adjustment, i use a tiny little 1/4 ratchet handle, makes adjustment very easy. Be careful that you dont bottom out the adjuster to deep into the lifter bucket. I just use the normal feeler gauge set.

Plastic elbow is worth a swap if it hasnt been done, can save the cam. They used to be dirt cheap, but not anymore, so the brass one could be worth a shot.

check all the hoses above the intakeif anything is dry, throtle body oring etc while your there. Valve cover gaskets can possibly be reused, depending on when they were swapped
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1980 924 Turbo
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chuck21401  



Joined: 20 Feb 2005
Posts: 611
Location: Annapolis, MD

PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2026 2:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally made some progress on getting the valves adjusted.

I looked around for the special valve adjustment tool discussed on this thread (https://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=28709) to no avail.

After reading up on the process I found a YouTube video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_Zi07DXmI4) that suggested using an Icon 3mm ball hex key socket (https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-and-38-in-drive-metric-professional-ball-hex-socket-set-8-piece-59755.html) to make an adjustment tool.



Here's the original 3mm ball hex socket from the Icon set.


Used a punch to remove the 3mm hex


Cut it down with a dremel


Used a vice to press it back in place


In preparation for the job I bought a new orange O ring for the intake (good idea, Cedric) a metric thickness gauge (Starrett 66MA Metric Thickness Gage .05mm-1.0mm), valve cover gasket set, a new plastic oil tube fitting (PCG115707) and a new underhood lighting solution.


_________________
1981 Porsche 931 w/S1 engine & euro g31 transaxle. Water-cooled intercooler


Last edited by chuck21401 on Tue May 26, 2026 9:21 am; edited 2 times in total
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chuck21401  



Joined: 20 Feb 2005
Posts: 611
Location: Annapolis, MD

PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2026 2:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I pulled the spark plugs to make it easier to turn the crank. That might not have been necessary but wanted to look at the plugs while I was there.

I had a heck of a time getting the valve cover off. I posted an SOS message on FB and was told to loosen two bolts at back (highlighted in yellow). Apparently the washers had caught the lip of the valve cover.



I was pleased to find that the plastic oil tube fitting was already upgraded to the brass version. I think that was a group buy on the board years ago?



Here's a picture of the 3mm ball socket in action. Luckily for me, the grub screws didn't need to move far in either direction. I found that the intake tappets were slightly loose requiring. 1 or 2 clicks to tighten, and the exhaust tappets were slightly tight, requiring 1 or 2 clocks to loosen.



I adjusted the valves cold, intake tappets set to .10mm and exhaust tappets set to .40mm.



Next steps will be to reinstall the valve cover with new gaskets, reinstall spark plugs/wires, and mount the intercooler. Last step is to refill the intercooler with water/antifreeze and purge the air from the system.
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1981 Porsche 931 w/S1 engine & euro g31 transaxle. Water-cooled intercooler
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9101
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2026 3:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice on the socket; I've always used a basic allen key, and it works but is no fun.

My tip on the process: soak the cardboard/fiber sides of the cover gasket in oil, so they'll swell up and seal but won't stick. Then stick the end silicone bits into the grooves with RTV silicone, locking the sides in place under them.

Wipe a little more oil on the valve cover where the ends seal, and now you can easily remove and reinstall the cover without having to replace the gasket...
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