924Board.org

[Mclaren924]

After what seemed like every not Kjet related issue on the planet was taken care of, the car had no problem starting and running reliably. In the end what really boned us and had us lost was the car wouldn't stay running after you let of the key. The PO had hammered a screw driver into the steering column ignition switch and he managed to break the actual locking mechanism that holds the car in the run position. Despite replacing with brand new ignition switch the problem wasn't fixed until we swapped a known good portion of the steering column. There's one bolt that holds this section in and im not sure what to refer to it as but it can be removed with the actual column still installed. Here's a video of it running and us messing with idle and coolant leaks. Thanks for all the help along the way guys. Next up, the motor comes back out to fix holes in the firewall and to paint the car. What color are favorites around here? Thinking guards red but's it just a tad bland. Cheers

https://youtu.be/2c0VFpqhi6o
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1980 931 "Salt" Bucket wannabe racer (Dreaming)
1979 924 Sebring "Pepper" -Sold

[kondzi]

Good job! Any color please but not black nor guards red - I got bored with them already
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Konrad
'89 951 US
'88 Mustang 5.0 LX Convertible (factory specs)
'84 911 Carrera 3.2 RoW (factory specs)
'81 931 RoW (TBD)
'81 Ford Capri 2.8i (factory specs)
'79 Ford Capri 2.9 (heavily modded)

[morghen]

My favorite colors for the 924 are: Lhasa green metallic, garnet red metallic (done right not the faded browns we often see) ,copper metallic (again, done right), minerva blue metallic, martini white.
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Supercharger and EFI kits
https://www.the924.com

[Mclaren924]

[Beartooth]

I'll add in, don't do Silver. Silver Porsches are basically a running cliche; the world doesn't need another one unless there's a very strong reason for it. How about some kind of orange metallic? Like a deep, maybe burnt orange metallic? Or something like the copper metalic morghen suggested; might be close to what I'm thinking.
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1980 931 diamond in the rough

[jacobroufa]

I've always wanted to see an Irish Green or Aventurine Green 924.

I think Gentian Blue looks good on them. I'm glad to see that color back in the rotation over the last few years, though a brand new Porsche is out of my range..

I wonder how Bahama Blue would look as well.
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1980 Porsche 931
1981 Porsche 924 Weissach

[Mclaren924]

Thank you all for the replies! I'm getting the air compressor wired up tomorrow hopefully so paint is coming soon! Can anyone point me towards a good write up on painting these cars? Been on the hunt and haven't found a ton. Would like to make this look as good as possible. Currently debating between the Morgen recommended, Garnet red metallic, possibly the original copper color as it would be easier, or finally a more interesting blue like minerva or another prosche blue. Actually now that I read those, Morghen recommended all of those lol. Guess we have similar taste. The copper is most intriguing but im worried of it turning out more brown than copper, I guess that part is up to my abilities. Cheers and I'll post more when I get more done
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1980 931 "Salt" Bucket wannabe racer (Dreaming)
1979 924 Sebring "Pepper" -Sold

[!tom]

There's a few people on here who have painted their cars. Just do some searching.

https://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?p=156699
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78 924 NA
5-lug

[Beartooth]

I've done a complete respray and some smaller painting projects, and I've still got a lot to learn. My first crack at painting (respraying a few body pieces) was a mess of sags and runs. The full respray I did came out a lot better: plenty of imperfections to be found, but not nearly as obvious. You've probably heard that the prep work is critical to the final product, and I'd guess only 5-10% of the labor on a good paint job is actually spraying paint. Like a house, you need a good foundation, and then you have to stay on track on each stage; actually, in some ways car paint is less forgiving.

I assume you've done your share of rattle-canning bits and pieces: if you've gotten good with that, you'll already have some of the eye and technique for painting a whole car body - just the same stuff on a bigger scale. Once you do pick a paint and get your equipment together, practice on some test blanks and then ideally an old fender or something with some curves and angles. Also, pay close attention to the mixing and application instructions; some of it's critical to avoiding failure, but even things like how many coats recommended, how thick, how much to overlap, and so on could be the difference between a so-so and a pretty nice paint job.

Of course, don't expect any miracles out of the gate, but also realize that a lot of the blemishes that might as well have a bullseye when you look at them won't even be noticed by the average passer-by.
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1980 931 diamond in the rough

[Mclaren924]

[kondzi]

If you want this paint job to last for a looong time, best would be to remove the existing paint to bare metal. Then start with Epoxy primer (with anticorrosion additives), acrylic primer (creates a cut off layer), then the primer for the final color, the final color and the clear coating.

When spraying start with the outer flat surfaces, then do any chambers and hard to access area (any paint [clear coat] that goes wild you will be able to polish from the flat areas - the other way it wont work).
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Konrad
'89 951 US
'88 Mustang 5.0 LX Convertible (factory specs)
'84 911 Carrera 3.2 RoW (factory specs)
'81 931 RoW (TBD)
'81 Ford Capri 2.8i (factory specs)
'79 Ford Capri 2.9 (heavily modded)

[Beartooth]

If there's any question, definitely sand or strip the old paint. The respray I did was over the original paint, which I sanded partway down just for a smoother base and to reduce the thickness, but that paint was sound. The thickness isn't a big concern unless it'd be the third or forth paint job. If the paint is only failing in certain areas (I've got a MB 300TD project that's alligatoring pretty badly, but mostly on the hood, roof, and trunklid), then you'd be fine knocking down those areas and just painting over the rest.

Keep in mind, there are several different types of primer, and you'll need to make sure you're using the right ones. There are basically three types: etching, or bare metal primers; building primers that you spray on to block sand and smooth smaller imperfections; and sealing primers designed to act as a transition layer between the other primers and/or body fillers. Which ones you need varies a lot: in some cases you can just scuff original paint and spray new paint right over top, but the more unknowns you have, the more conservative you want to be (using a sealer designed to adhere to old paint at a minimum).

What I did the complete respray, I went to a PPG paint shop, told them what I was doing, and went with the products they recommended. I'm sure I could have saved some money, but I got top quality paint, and it should last. It's been over eight years, and so far, so good.
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1980 931 diamond in the rough

[Mclaren924]