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Bleeder question

 
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cjpurifoy924  



Joined: 06 Apr 2016
Posts: 21
Location: GREENVILLE, NC

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 1:06 am    Post subject: Bleeder question Reply with quote

Good morning. I know it must be exhausting to some more experienced to read and answer some of my lame questions. I am learning a lot in this swap but once again I come to ask help and advice. I am swapping the engine from an 82 924 n/a to a 78 924 n/a. I thought they were the same block and head. As I am finding out that is not the case. My intentions were to use the 82 block with all the 78 bits to bring the 78 back to life. The good news is the 82 (047 100 103 C) is originally more powerful than the 78 (047 100 103 A). The bad news is I'm finding some differences that are preventing me from continuing. Here is what I'm looking at. The 78 came with A and I'm replacing it with C.



I noticed this when trying to locate and install #9 from this diagram (please correct me if I am wrong with the parts)....



to #6 from this diagram.




Here are some photos of the actual parts....'78 bleeder...



...'82 bleeder.




Inside of (completely busted) hose from '82....



The '78 was mostly disassembled when I got it so I didn't have the opportunity to take pics of the hoses. I do have the hose but it is a different layout than the '82. They are different diameters and were routed differently. If I'm not mistaken the '78's hoses are routed to a Carbon Canister? Located inside the drivers side wheel well? I never did see where the '82's hose connected as it was busted and just laying under the intake manifold loose. The hose from the '82 has what I'm calling a re stricter in it for lack of better terms.

My questions for now are: Can I adapt the larger bleeder to the smaller hose on the '78 and carry on without problems? Is this part of an EGR system that can be capped off or deleted?

Any advice is appreciated. I am really learning a lot on this, my first project car, both from wrenching and asking dumb questions of smarter people.
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Best I can with what I got.

78 Porsche 924 n/a
82 Porsche 924 n/a
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cjpurifoy924  



Joined: 06 Apr 2016
Posts: 21
Location: GREENVILLE, NC

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 3:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm finding in the workshop manuals that hose does go to the charcoal canister. What I was calling a bleeder is a crankcase vent. Since it filters gas fumes I guess I will not be deleting it....
And I think I have the wrong catalogue...the numbers on the block do not match those in the catalogue but the pics are the same..
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78 Porsche 924 n/a
82 Porsche 924 n/a
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
Posts: 1246
Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 4:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe that the crank case vent line goes to the bottom of the air filter box. And I also read some where that the vent line for for the later vent fitting has a plug in it with a restriction hole to about 3/8" or about 10mm. That block vent fitting should have a wire mesh filter screen in it that can get plugged over time. Someone(maybe Ideola or Rasta) said that that vent fitting is now available from Porsche again. Hope this helps.
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'67 MG Midget Dp
'71 Ocelot Dsr Kawasaki 1000(under rebuild)
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brian19600  



Joined: 28 Oct 2013
Posts: 375
Location: NJ/CT

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My crankcase vent was plugged. I read somewhere you should not to try to remove it unless you are going to replace it, so I just flushed it with acetone. The hose runs to the charcoal canister with 1 or 2 other ones.
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peterld  



Joined: 10 Dec 2006
Posts: 983
Location: Noosa Heads QLD Australia

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The crankcase vent WILL come out but will require some brute force and ignorance!
It is imperative the wire guaze behind it (an integral part) is thoroughly cleaned.
It is a pig of a thing to extract and really only done relatively easily with the motor out of the frame (which you have).
It was a press-in fit at the factory, and after years of sludge and paint requires a major helping hand.
I bent a large flat bladed screwdriver at right angles and pried it under the flat lip and gave it some assistance with a ball pein hammer. A thin edged bearing puller or such could work, etc. You may well have to straighten/flatten the edge after such shenanigans!
Reseating is usually just a press-in fit, but if a little loose, use an appropriate sealant.
You could of course just cobble up some different hose bends and use either/or type of crankcase vent.
It's purpose is to simply vent the bottom of the block from combustion blow-by...so the pressures aren't that great (or at least shouldn't be.
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