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kpasko · Joined: 25 Jun 2013 Posts: 35 Location: California

Just got the oil pan back from the hot bath nice and shiny, have some curil k2, reinzoplast, and grey permatex around for sealing the new gaskets...thoughts/preferences?

new water pump too, but probably going to go for k2 on that one due to antifreeze resistance...

thanks!
k

daniel · Joined: 18 Jun 2009 Posts: 686 Location: Sydney, Australia

Use a sealer that goes rubbery when cured, not hard. I use loctite RTV (red in colour)
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kcoyle · Joined: 15 Jan 2011 Posts: 712 Location: Long Island, NY

"Clean vigorously, and affix new gasket to the block with Curil-K2. Slap the rubber caps into the block dry, except for the joints with the cork sections. . .grey permatex there. "

Stolen from Rasta in the thread below. It has worked so far for me..

http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=39271&view=next&sid=e8f37bc319c2bb65d4cd184f8183c52e
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Rasta Monsta · Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11733 Location: PacNW

kpasko · Joined: 25 Jun 2013 Posts: 35 Location: California

thanks for the link to that thread...

maybe you can clear something up rasta-

as quoted, you mention-

"Clean vigorously, and affix new gasket to the block with Curil-K2. Slap the rubber caps into the block dry, except for the joints with the cork sections. . .grey permatex there. "

but then at the bottom you mention

I use the ultra grey for the joints, Curil-K2 (gorilla snot) for the cork. . .not sure if I would use a drying product on that cork gasket.

seems like one or the other of these is switched up... I'm guessing the first one is correct, as permatex would be the more flexible of the two for the cork...?

Nice trick with the break cleaner too; do you apply anything else after letting the solvent dissolve, or just bolt it up like that?

Rasta Monsta · Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11733 Location: PacNW

Gorilla snot on the cork, ultra grey on the ends of the rubber bits.

Water pump gasket goes on when it gets tacky. Doesn't take that long.
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WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

924RACR · Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 4:49 pm Post subject:

FWIW, I soak most of the cork style gaskets in oil! Swells 'em up but keeps 'em from sticking to metal, allowing disassembly with no cleanup. I use this on the water pump, intake, and cam cover.

Of course the end gaskets on the cam cover still need to be RTV'd to the caps.

I have used both Elring sealer and, most recently, Hondabond, on the oil pan with good results.
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'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
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kpasko · Joined: 25 Jun 2013 Posts: 35 Location: California

thanks again for all the tips. finally got to opening the gasket set I got (victor reinz--

)

as you can see, only one beveled cork bit...is that meant to go drain plug side or opposite? length seems to be spot-on for the drain plug side, but

seems to show opposite...although, it also doesn't show the other side at all...

924RACR · Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 8:22 pm Post subject:

Pic looks accurate to me, same side as the dipstick...
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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype