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Fasteddie313 · Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2595 Location: MI

drivers seat front left trapped nut was ripped up through floor pan..
any good ideas how to fix it without destroying the integrity of the zinc with a welder or drilling all the way through the floor destroying the rust protection?
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80 Turbo - Slightly Modified

snakoil · Joined: 09 Feb 2010 Posts: 362 Location: Montreal, Canada

I cut 3 side around the nut hoel to be able to pry open the section adn get the nut out
Then we rewelded the piece back
(could not simply weld it back as it was too thin and simply melted so we welded another piece of metal on top)
We then welded a new nut that I bought at my local hardware store on top of the hole.
Price was 5$ for pack of 6 nut and bolt + beer for my welder friend

However this was on passenger side for me so I did not really care.
Also the fact I run aftermarket seats with custom brackets I was able to level the seat by modifying the bracket a bit.
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1979 924 NA

staticsan · Joined: 19 Jan 2009 Posts: 450 Location: Sydney, Australia

Ah. I had that problem, too. And a PO had welded the seat rail to the (traverse) mounting rail...

After we removed that, Dad and I fashioned a u-shaped piece that fit over the mounting rail and bolted it on with two bolts. Then a friend of mine who works in a dealer's workshop gave me some proper captive nuts and leant me a tool to install them. (I had to upsize all of them from 6mm bolts to 8mm.)

Wade.
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'82 British NA - Which I think I've been very lucky with!

Fasteddie313 · Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2595 Location: MI

I stuck a bolt through a plate and welded its head on there and then welded the plate to the floor leaving me a stud sticking up...

I had the seat rails off the seat for cleaning so I put it on the rear bolt in the stock hole/captive nut and got my studplate under the front of it and tacked it like that so I knew my stud was going to be the right distance from the other one... I just eyeballed the left and right axis but the rail gave me a jig for the forward/rearward axis...

worked great... seats are in and it slipped right on

I just hate welding on this car because it leaves it vulnerable to rust from burning off the galvanization... not to mention holding my breath while welding and then running for fresh air every so often isn't very fun...

it is what it is

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80 Turbo - Slightly Modified

Fasteddie313 · Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2595 Location: MI

ideola · Joined: 01 Oct 2004 Posts: 15550 Location: Spring Lake MI

I haven't looked at this very closely, but I wonder if RivNuts might be a solution to this problem?

The installation tool works on a similar principle to rivets, where the body of the rivet is compressed and expanded to "capture" it against the sheet metal. RivNuts will work with "blind holes" where you can't get to both sides of the sheet metal.

I used RivNuts to install captive nuts on the frame spars for mounting the late style sway bars on the Club Sport. So far so good...despite several people suggesting they would rip out, they seem to be holding up fine. We'll see how long they last.
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erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made

Fasteddie313 · Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2595 Location: MI

cool idea Dan but in my case the top of that rail was way to blow out for something like that unless I was to try to install that nut into the next floor plate down witch would have made my bolt another inch and a half longer...

I don't know if you've scene what's under there or not but even the little plate thing that holds the captive nut up to the top of the rail was ripped off one side
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80 Turbo - Slightly Modified