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Got a Porsche 924 that have stood still for 10 years
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Tanso  



Joined: 16 Mar 2014
Posts: 81
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vatoisimo wrote:
looks better than mine did. there was no brake fluid in mine at all. when I took it home, and rolled it down the driveway. I was halfway into the garage, when I realized that the brake pedal went ALL the way to the floor with nothing happening. lucky for me (and the garage) the motor was seized, because I jammed it in gear, and it skidded to a stop. make sure to check the rings, because all mine were gunked up, and wouldn't hold compression. plus the blown head gasket. and the electrical which I am working on now. and the cis, which thankfully I cleaned before trying to start. It looked like coffee coming out of the tank.

That sounds like a really big project you got there! When you filled it up with brake fluid did the brakes work again?

Good thing you mentioned that we should check the rings. Where did you buy the rings and head gasket?
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vatoisimo  



Joined: 31 Aug 2008
Posts: 134
Location: Kent, Wa

PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually, I switched over to the full disc brake option. which means that I can run the 5 lug wheels that every other porsche car runs. I am in the middle of testing everything right now, and think that the m/c or the vac assist is not working properly because the brakes work a little, and then go away. As far as the engine rebuild kit goes, I bought it from Ideola's garage. I got rings, the gasket kit, and a set of s2 pistons that bring the compression ratio up to 10.5 to 1 . I have had the car for about 6 years, but have been getting serious for the past 18 months. I bought a parts car about a year ago, and that was the way to go! good luck
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vatoisimo  



Joined: 31 Aug 2008
Posts: 134
Location: Kent, Wa

PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

had to beat on the drums with a hammer to get them released, and then again to get them off of the car. they were packed with rust
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Tanso  



Joined: 16 Mar 2014
Posts: 81
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After some terrible rainy days we finally began with our project.

First up, raise the Porsche.





Empty the 10 year old oil.





And coolant.







Intake tubing.



Injector lines.





Sway bar.





Front cross member.





Remove air filter housing and fuel distributor.









Clutch cable.



Remove coil and electrical cables



Disconnect bell housing.



Engine lift in place!



Engine mounts.





Engine is now out!





Next step is to take the engine apart.
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vatoisimo  



Joined: 31 Aug 2008
Posts: 134
Location: Kent, Wa

PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good job, that looks familiar!
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Tanso  



Joined: 16 Mar 2014
Posts: 81
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 4:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We continue with our work!







































Cant go on from here, we need a special tool to remove head bolts.




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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DO NOT skim the head. It will NOT raise compression on a 924 NA motor. Also, all 924s now use the same gasket, so there is really no distinction between 924 and 931 head gasket.

If you want to raise compression, the way to do it is by removing material on the block. Most 924 heads are dangerously close to the wear limit already, so you should remove the absolute minimum amount of material necessary to get a good, clean, flat surface. As for the block, you don't want to remove too much there either because you will starting having problems keeping tension on the timing belt. Remove too much, and you'll need to find a shorter belt and get an adjustable cam sprocket just to get things to work.

Less is definitely more in this case.
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Tanso  



Joined: 16 Mar 2014
Posts: 81
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ideola wrote:
DO NOT skim the head. It will NOT raise compression on a 924 NA motor. Also, all 924s now use the same gasket, so there is really no distinction between 924 and 931 head gasket.

If you want to raise compression, the way to do it is by removing material on the block. Most 924 heads are dangerously close to the wear limit already, so you should remove the absolute minimum amount of material necessary to get a good, clean, flat surface. As for the block, you don't want to remove too much there either because you will starting having problems keeping tension on the timing belt. Remove too much, and you'll need to find a shorter belt and get an adjustable cam sprocket just to get things to work.

Less is definitely more in this case.


Yes I read that skimming the head is not a good idea. We are planning to skim 1,5mm of the block. We should get around 10hp. So 135hp from our Euro engine.
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Tanso  



Joined: 16 Mar 2014
Posts: 81
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 11:58 pm    Post subject: The right tool Reply with quote

We have now found the correct tool for removing the head so the work continues





The head is off!









Remove flywheel.







Clean oil pan.









Removing oil pan.











We are going to change piston rings. We have the Euro 125hp engine. Is there a difference between Us and Euro piston rings?


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Tanso  



Joined: 16 Mar 2014
Posts: 81
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before we begin with the cylinder head we have started working on the corrosion.

The worst area is the floor on the driver side. It has a hole right through so it has to be fixed.

We have never welded or repaired rusted parts but we have all the tools and this is a good project car to learn the technique.


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vatoisimo  



Joined: 31 Aug 2008
Posts: 134
Location: Kent, Wa

PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

way to get right after it!!!!! GO GO GO
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What type of welding method are you using to weld it? You'll need to clean the metal well to remove the zinc coating. The zinc will get a white cob web look to it when welded and give off toxic fumes so don't breathe it.
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pmcaya2  



Joined: 24 Nov 2005
Posts: 191
Location: Scio, NY USA

PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Yes, I also was surprised Tanso et al. were pulling the engine.

Perhaps, the PO had had problems which necessitated removal; otherwise, to me, the prudent thing to do would have been
to re-build the fuel system, verify the ignition system, and see what needs to be done from there.


I think that this is the best advice you've had so far..... the car looks too good and was stored in a garage..... when was it last on the road, what did the PO say, and is the mileage on the odometer correct? Even with 100K more miles, engine could be good.... the least of your worries. I'd put the engine back in the car and test it unless there is something obviously wrong.
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Tanso  



Joined: 16 Mar 2014
Posts: 81
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jason c wrote:
What type of welding method are you using to weld it? You'll need to clean the metal well to remove the zinc coating. The zinc will get a white cob web look to it when welded and give off toxic fumes so don't breathe it.


We will be using a MIG weld. Is it really a zinc coating there? The car is from 1979, I thought only post 80 cars were galvanized?

pmcaya2 wrote:
I think that this is the best advice you've had so far..... the car looks too good and was stored in a garage..... when was it last on the road, what did the PO say, and is the mileage on the odometer correct? Even with 100K more miles, engine could be good.... the least of your worries. I'd put the engine back in the car and test it unless there is something obviously wrong.


The engine looks good so far. The rod & main bearings have some wear, probably bad oil service. The main bearings seem hard to find.

The PO couldn't answer about the odometer. I heard that the Porsche 924 odometer cannot be trusted.

We are also going to raise the compression from 9.3.1 to 10.7.1 so it helps having the engine out.
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Harm  



Joined: 02 Apr 2009
Posts: 1376
Location: Holland

PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 10:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Got a Porsche 924 that have stood still for 10 years Reply with quote

Wow!
My (passenger/rearseat) footwell held some water in the past (PO) but there are no signs of rust at all,
even when I removed the sound deadener.

Quote:
The main bearings seem hard to find.

Have you tried Mittelmotor.de ?

Good luck!
Harm.
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