larchie
Joined: 19 Jun 2003 Posts: 297
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Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 3:43 pm Post subject: |
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My impression is that you might have installed a relay not appropriate for your model and make. If the car ran with the fuel pump wired directly (without a relay) but now won't run with a relay, then this would be the thing to check first before checking the wiring connections. But, in truth, you'll need to give much more information about the car, its symptoms, and what you've tried for anyone on this board to know how to respond with relevant advice.
After the installation of the (correct) fuel relay, is the fuse good? does the fuel pump work? are you getting spray from the injectors? is there spark? and was the relay checked? Previously, without the relay, was there a jumper placed in the relay board or was the fuel pump wired directly with a switch?
To test for a short with everything connected, turn off everything electrical, disconnect and clean the end of your battery ground strap and then hold the cable close to the ground post. If you see a spark, you have a short somewhere.
To see several other things to try and test see this thread on the 924Board.org: Fuel Relay fuse keeps blowing.
Edit (02.17.2014): Here's what the Hanes Manual says about testing the coil:
| Hanes Workshop Manual 1977-1985 wrote: | 15 Ignition coil - checking
-1 Check the battery terminals to ensure proper connection.
-2 Make sure that the ignition is off.
-3 Connect an ohmmeter between terminals 1 and 15. The value of this test Is the primary resistance. The primary resistance value should be 1.0 to 1.3 ohms (0.95 to 1.4 on Turbo),
-4 Connect the ohmmeter to the number 1 and 15 terminals of the coil. This will give the secondary resistance value. The value of secondary resistance should be 5.5 to 8,0 ohms.
-5-If the primary and secondary values are not met, replace the ignition coil. It is necessary that both values be met to ensure proper ignition. |
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