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Hatch Reseal
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wasn't prying the glass, I was prying the frame!
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seriously Rastas only into smokin fine wood, though his side kick
will likes the fir.
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joecitizennn  



Joined: 12 Sep 2005
Posts: 2096
Location: no mans land

PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joes924Racer wrote:
Seriously Rastas only into smokin fine wood, though his side kick
will likes the fir.


Seriously what the crypticfuk does that mean?
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

joecitizennn wrote:
Seriously what the crypticfuk does that mean?


One (1) "ROFLMFAO" awarded.
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musicalannette  



Joined: 21 Feb 2012
Posts: 413
Location: UK

PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a bit of a leak on my frame, when the weather is better I was going to attempt to seal it by running model aircraft glue around the edge of the glass.

It's specialist stuff for building model aircraft, costs about £5 a bottle, think the name on it's bob smith industries. You will have to find a model shop to buy it probably.

Its called thin cynoacrylic. Its really superglue on steroids.

I reckon if you run this round where the glass meets the frame on the outside, it should seal it without taking the whole thing apart. Its like water and will run in and fill the gaps.

I will let you know how I get on.

I must admit this is the best how to on here. You are a star for attempting to take the bloody thing apart.

By the way, dont be fooled by renault when it comes to turbocharging, they usually used long stroke engines then turbocharged them, making them very driveable. they are no mugs when it comes to forced induction.
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McGyver  



Joined: 24 Feb 2009
Posts: 354
Location: Jelenia Gora - Poland

PostPosted: Sat Jun 22, 2013 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had same problem some time ago.. with space about 3mm between glass and frame... any water can easily come inside car. I recommended using silicone seal glue for aquariums in black color I Fix my hatch this way few days ago. Silicone It's flexible so should work much better than any cyanoacrylic glue. I had fight with pushing frame in to place... but straps with adjusted length made it perfect. After about 24h waiting time to have sure everything is in place For now all is fine even after about 30 openings of hatch I see how this will work after some longer time.
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Grenadiers  



Joined: 20 Feb 2007
Posts: 3222
Location: Nelson, WI & Prescott, AZ

PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hatch problems are timeless, so, got a question. I had a good 944 hatch on my car, and during the drive down from WI to AZ recently, had a bit of a problem. The 'sideboards' we use on our Ford F350 diesel, (which allow us to bring down lots of crap), were 'sucked' off the truck while driving down the freeway (we staple a tarp on top for weather protection, flew off like a box kite), and the boards hit the toofah I was towing on a two-wheel dolly. The boards dented the hood, cracked the windshield, and blew out the rear hatch. Arghghghghg! And, I had to remove the GTS front bumper to load the car. The bumper met the freeway.

So, after about 450 dollars in repairs, new windshield, my fiberglass bumper repair and paint, another used 944 hatch, I have a bad hatch!

Overall, it's worth saving, but the frame has separated at the hinges. To avoid Rasta's problem, and subsequent glass blow-out (I spent hours removing glass shards when the hatch was hit, grrr) would it make sense to use McGyver's plan to glue it back to the frame, and then use ratcheting straps to pull it together while it drys? Question, it seems that the current gap, at 1/16ths of an inch or so between the frame and glass, the ratchet straps would distort the frame once you try and pull it back. Too make that work, it almost seems like you'd need a thick gasket between the body and hatch hinge to make it work. Anyone?
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