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Removing the clock and installing a A/F Meter

 
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ThomasJoseph315  
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 6:20 am    Post subject: Removing the clock and installing a A/F Meter Reply with quote

The Gauge,..

http://tinyurl.com/lyfzgdc

This will work with any narrow band 3 wire O2 Senor that has the Pos, Ground, Sens, wire. Anyone know off the top of their head which car may use those?

Anyone ever install these? Should I use a relay? where is the best spot for getting Power for this? Instructions etc..

Bonus points for videos
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stevekat  



Joined: 19 Jan 2008
Posts: 719
Location: Los Angeles, CA

PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I installed this Autometer gauge in the clock spot. I recall it may have been available from Autozone, in the stores. Mine is black. It has usefulness, but not as much as the sideband with its own sensor.

I may have powered it off of one of the circuit in the console, I cannot remember what one - or I may have powered it off the fuse box. I powered the light from the light circuit of the oil pressure gauge or other illumination in the console activated when the lights are on.

You need to tap the signal coming from the oxy sensor. Make sure you have a good sensor. I tapped the oxy sensor signal from the lambda box. I recall I opened up the connector to the lambda box (the big one that locks onto the box.) It has a large black plastic cover. Inside there is a light green wire (as I recall.) This is the signal from the oxy sensor. I tapped it over to the gauge and it seemed to work fine - and the Lambda continues to function fine as far as I could tell. Double-check the wiring diagram to make sure I have the color right. I simple stripped some insulation from that wire and soldered a relatively thin wire to tap it.

The gauge I used worked with the single wire oxy sensor that our cars use.
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"Never get out of the boat. Absolutely goddamn right. Unless you are goin' all the way."

Gone to new home: '81 924T, US version, CGT Intercooler, UTCIS-PT, Euro DITC, Greddy Trust MBC, Forged Fuchs Flat Dish 6's, Factory Recaro's.
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ThomasJoseph315  
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 77 924 so I will have to install this system as a stand alone. I wouldn't mind a single wire set up, as that would make wiring much easier but what gauge did you use? Model? If you used the factory O2 sensor of your car, what is the year make and model of yours?

Thanks
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stevekat  



Joined: 19 Jan 2008
Posts: 719
Location: Los Angeles, CA

PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My car is a 1981 931 (924 Turbo w/DITC ignition and a Lambda box and frequency valve for fuel mixture control.) I do not have the Autometer gauge exact part number, but it looks exactly like the one in your photo but in black and it appears like their 2675 Z series (I recall it was much less expensive a few years ago.) They stocked them in the Autozone store I recall.
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"Never get out of the boat. Absolutely goddamn right. Unless you are goin' all the way."

Gone to new home: '81 924T, US version, CGT Intercooler, UTCIS-PT, Euro DITC, Greddy Trust MBC, Forged Fuchs Flat Dish 6's, Factory Recaro's.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 3:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got THIS ONE with the analog face.

Wired to the same power as oil pressure. IMO, would not be worth much without a wide band sensor. Adding a bung is pretty straightforward.
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924-76  



Joined: 05 Jun 2006
Posts: 1489
Location: Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 3:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
I got THIS ONE with the analog face.

Wired to the same power as oil pressure. IMO, would not be worth much without a wide band sensor. Adding a bung is pretty straightforward.

+1, I got the same one after wasting money and time with a single band
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 6:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't even bother with a narrow band. The least expensive wideband setup I am aware of is the AEM setup, which can be had with sensor and gauge (which has an integral controller) for under $300 MSRP.

Most of the wideband arrangements allow for narrow band emulation, so if you wire it correctly, you can remove your existing narrow band sensor, put the wideband in its place, and run the correct wire to the existing Lambda wire under the car. This way you don't have to weld in an additional bung.

As for wiring, you need ignition switched 12V+, ground, and a source for the backlight. For the 12V+, I prefer using tapping the radio circuit because it activates at key in, rather than waiting for ignition to be on after starting. I've found that this is important on most of the AFRs because they require a second or two to self-calibrate the gauge, particularly on the AEM analog versions. The backlight source is easy enough to tap into one of the white/lightblue wires that feed the other gauge lights. These units pretty much all come with the controller wire which has the multi-pin connector that connects in the engine bay (I zip tie mine to the main cross member), so aside from the wiring above, it's really just a matter of installing the sensor into the bung, pulling the wire into the cockpit, and connecting everything at the gauge. The voltage is really low, so there is no need to add a relay. You might consider putting an inline 5A fuse, but the radio circuit is adequately fused such that it's not really necessary.
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ThomasJoseph315  
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So,.. I know why people don't like narrow bands, but if you wire them right they work just fine. I should tell everyone I have a 76 build year. I have no ECU, no stock O2 sensor,... this is a 100% stand alone system. The reason why narrow bands oscillate is because most people patch into the wire with modern cars that have ECU's. The ECU's on the same wire are constantly compensating for the fuel readings that's why the gauges look haywire then you use a "T" connector to tap into them.

My gauge works just fine and gives me fine data I can tune to. You can use a single wire O2 sensor from a 81 924 and a narrow band A/F gauge and be just fine as long as you do a stand alone like i did.
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ThomasJoseph315  
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Auto Meter Pro Comp A/F Guage
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/AUM0/4375.oap?ck=Search_4375_-1_3210&keyword=4375

Bosh O2 Sensor - From an 81 924 Single wire, easy install..
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BOS0/11027.oap?ck=Search_11027_-1_3210&keyword=11027
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