924Board.org

[JasonO]

Hi everyone,
We picked up a timing belt kit yesterday (gates tck017) with tensioner etc.
While I'm no Mechanic I have gained a very small bit of knowledge and tools etc since buying our car. I'm keen to always give basic things a shot myself.
So on a scale of 1-10 how hard is it to change the belt? the last two thing I did was install new injectors, let say a 1, and change the starter motor, for me let's say that's a 3.Or can someone please link me a clear walk-through etc if they know of one.
My mechanic can install it for me of course but....
any help or advice is great
Jason.

[!tom]

About as hard as changing a starter motor.
_________________
78 924 NA
5-lug

[932kiwi]

The hardest part is removing everything in front of the engine, after that its easy.

Do you have a workshop manual?

Are you going to replace the water pump?

[JasonO]

Hey how are you, hope your better up there?
Read the workshop manual bit.
I took of the air filter today and had a look,Seems like I could fit by only removing the V belt in front first, fit new belt and tensioner ..... Can see It's pretty simple looking Just a bit confused on the lining up of timing marks etc I cant see any on the top Cam wheel front or back?
Not sure on the water pump I asked at Repco for one and they came up blank.Is it super Important?, I will "assume" a new one was fitted when the motor was rebuilt.How long do people usually wait before changing them?.
This might sound Dumb But if I set the two wheels so they wont move out of alignment and fit the belt is this a safe idea?

[932kiwi]

If the pump is not that old it should be alright. If you want to change it, the best place to get parts is off the net (forget repco) like pelicanparts.com

The more you remove from in front of the engine, the easier it is to change the belt. Don't be afraid to unbolt the fuel injection unit, leave the fuel lines attached. you well be able to lift it about an inch or two out of the way.

There should be a dot on the inside of the timing belt pulley that you line up with the pointer. You may have to turn the engine a bit before it comes into view, use a socket and strong arm on the bottom pulley to turn it. Then follow the Haynes manual for changing the belt.

[Grenadiers]

Yeah, and don't touch the cam pulley once you have it aligned at TDC. It moves in a sudden motion and not incrementally! As for the crank pulley, you have to have it a few degrees before TDC. Went tightening the belt, the pulley will then move to TDC. Sometimes it doesn't move until you start the engine due to compression. However, pulling the plugs beforehand helps for peace of mind that you aren't stretching the belt.
_________________
'83 944 Track car.
'88 924S Track car.
'89 944 Turbo
2004 Winnebago Vectra monster RV
2012 Jeep Wrangler
2014 Kia Soul
2001 Ford F350 powerstroke

[JasonO]

O.K cool, So I got the belt on O.k I believe......So far
Lining them up,the cam wheel dot lines up with the cam cover marker...the large "drilled dot" is visible in the "Square window" on flywheel,although not dead center. If I turn the engine counter clockwise? it's "Forward a bit".
If I draw an imaginary line from the mark on the middle wheel it "lines up" with the belt line.

If I rotate the engine through a cycle with a socket on the bottom-most wheel they line up at the same spot so I'm guessing that's good.

The new tensioner is fitted but need's the tool that has two prongs to hold the cam,I just used finger tight today.Ill get one in next couple of days.

I cant really get tight tension on the topside "long" part of belt yet,It's tight but I can turn it 90 deg easily and can "just" wiggle the belt on the cam wheel with my thumb.

Am I on the right track so far anyone?

[JasonO]

Oh and included in the pack were two black circular Seals, are these Oil seals?
And are they for a 924 or another type/brand of car?
I cant see where they would go?
Cheers

[Grenadiers]

When buying a belt here, you get just the belt. However, if you are talking head gasket kit, then, a front crank shaft seal and camshaft seal could be the small black ones. I use a needle nosed pliers, and a 17mm wrench and somehow get the 'proper' tension on the belt.
_________________
'83 944 Track car.
'88 924S Track car.
'89 944 Turbo
2004 Winnebago Vectra monster RV
2012 Jeep Wrangler
2014 Kia Soul
2001 Ford F350 powerstroke

[Paul]

2 nails in the holes and a screwdriver wedged between them has been known to work.
_________________
White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.

[JasonO]

O.k..... so far got the belt on o.k, as for tension I brought large cir-clip pliers, these worked great,once I got a new shorter shanked bolt that fitted the new tensioner properly.

Now the issues part....

The new cam-belt sits right on the front edge of the cam wheel with just a tiny bit over the front edge,(the front been the front of car).I refitted the belt to check and same issue.Maybe the new tensioner is making it sit forward",I'm not sure?.It stays there when cranking over so far and appears to sit there fine so far.

I believe I may have set something not quite right? when it came time to start (with plug-leads in and all reassembled) it turns over o.k but wont start.
Before I started the car would start first pop.
The motor will try to fire lightly If I give some gas then back off but on the third time will kind of stall and some very light vapor come's back out the intake area.
Any Ideas where I've gone wrong?

[ideola]

The Gates kit you bought is technically for a VW, so the circular seals are probably not useful for the 924.

The Gilmer gear at the crank sits behind the v-belt pulley, and the tensioner also has raised lips. These should be enough to keep the timing belt from wandering if tension is adjusted correctly. So I wouldn't be overly concerned about where the belt is riding on the cam sprocket.

As for the no-start issue, the cam sprocket has a dimple on both sides of it. Make sure you are using the dimple on the BACK side (the side that faces the windshield). If you lined it up using the front dimple, the timing will be off.

If that checks out, it's probably something with ignition timing. Did you remove the distributor or any of the plug leads during this process? You need to make sure that the ignition rotor is oriented correctly while the engine is at TDC, and that the plug wires are installed in the correct sequence...
_________________
erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made

[JasonO]

Hey thanks Dan, Ill check over these things in the morning...I'm thinking leads lol...Hopefully that simple.

[JasonO]

Urrrhh Still no go, any more Ideas where I have gone wrong anyone?

Cam wheel is lined up with the Dot on the inside of wheel (stamped side).

Flywheel is at "Z1" in the square window just a tiny bit back from been dead centre.

Centre pulley mark lines up with cam-belt direction.

Rechecked leads, At "TDC" the distributor rotor points to 1 then clockwise order 1 3 4 2.

Still try's to fire but almost feels like It builds up pressure after chugging two-three times stalls then blow's light vapor out intake
any more Ideas before my mechanic come's up?
Cheers

[McGyver]

Maybe you set yout timing belt little incorrect (1 teeth in one direction) and that's why it doesn't work. You should have dot on camshaft directing valve cover mark, and Z1 should be seen in center of clutch belhousing window... check that again, maybe you align something wrong when tensioning timing belt.
Check also mark (0 or dot) on flywhell and then spark distributor should face 1-st cylinder

_________________
931 82' - 5000km after full engine rebuild

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