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Fitting Aluminium Control Arms to 1977 Torsion Bar Tube
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Herr-Kuhn  



Joined: 03 Jul 2012
Posts: 30
Location: Northern, KY

PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 11:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great, thanks for the photo. Can you tell me...did you keep the stock rubber bushings on the torsion beam pieces from the 924S or were these cut off and replaced with a poly bushing set? You appear to have used the 77 cover caps.

I assume you also mounted the tabs for the rear sway bar? I plan to run the 25.5mm front and the 18mm rear with a 350-400 lb/in set front and a 30mm torsion bar set our back (330 lb/in effective). It looks like you just welded a pad onto the torsion bar tube. Hard to believe the factory installed a torsion bar without strapping it down...kinda makes pure torsion there quite difficult!

Additionally, are you just running the torsion bar tube with only the two mounting tabs on either side and no rubber bumpers on the top side to limit suspension travel?
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Andrew NZ  



Joined: 22 Jun 2004
Posts: 744
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 12:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Herr-Kuhn wrote:
or were these cut off and replaced with a poly bushing set? You appear to have used the 77 cover caps.

Yes and yes!
Herr-Kuhn wrote:
I assume you also mounted the tabs for the rear sway bar?

Yes, but you can buy kits for that too.
Herr-Kuhn wrote:
Additionally, are you just running the torsion bar tube with only the two mounting tabs on either side and no rubber bumpers on the top side to limit suspension travel?

You've lost me with that one - the bump stops are mounted to the chassis and touch on the arms at full travel. I'm also running coil overs that have built in bump stops as well.
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1977 RX924 race car
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Herr-Kuhn  



Joined: 03 Jul 2012
Posts: 30
Location: Northern, KY

PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 12:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No other mounting provisions for the torsion tube beam other than the 2 bolts as per factory on the 1977?

You did coil overs on this, correct? What spring rates are you running front and rear and how difficult was it to reinforce the frame in the upper rear to allow for good durability back there? I recall you saying you cracked the original frame member with the coil overs. The coil overs are only about +$100 over the big torsion bars, so it's still an option but I'd like to know how hard it is to modify the mount...I assume one just welds on extra metal on either side of the box.

I'm likely going to just stick with the 30mm bars and like a 350-400 lb/in spring up front. However, there is concern here based on the fact that there will be a much larger moment induced on the torsion bar tube with the larger bars installed. I had neglected to take this into consideration when I looked at the design. The tube has to effectively distribute the moment to the frame and with the 1977's smaller footprint, I may be pushing my luck. This also explains why the later cars had the swoopy bars on them which attach to the body above the wheels...this really spreads out the moment to the frame.
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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 2637
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Herr-Kuhn wrote:
The torsion bar mount was changed mid year 1978...for the 1979 model year cars I suppose. I have a theory...I believe the change was done to provide ample footprint for the 931 gearbox being hung off the torsion bar housing...thus the reason for getting a much wider footprint to take the loading of the trans-axle.

Along comes 944 and then this design sticks because it was already into production. The box used in the 1979 NA 5-speed was also a G31 based box and these cars have the same newer setup. So it seems 1979+ all used the newer alumimium torsion bar tube mount castings.

I can't see that much benefit to the large casting and the rest of it when the weight of the trans-axle is hung off the chassis like it was on 944 and on my 924 (1977-1978). I believe that torsion tube mounting change was made specifically to address the added weight on the drive line due to the 931 box having been hung off of the torsion bar tube. The weight of the trans-axle would induce a huge moment about the mounting point...after all, it would be quite the cantilevered load, with the only counter point being the mount for the torsion bar tube!

If you look at the suspension and the mount on the early cars, the 2 footed casting only needs to be enough to support the tube and as well provide ample support to keep the torsion bar from seeing any bending loads during suspension and braking loading. The rubber bushings allow for some compliance in the system.


I agree with the logic and came to the same conclusion myself. looked into this a few years ago, more towards fitting the ally TB end caps though rather than the ally arms as well. Yes they are lighter but also give a wider track that I personally didn`t need with a narrow body. Also it`s necessary to change out the axle shafts too.

There`s no easy way to fit the extended ally arm on a 77 without cutting & welding. Can`t recall exact details but it was more than trying to fit another nut mount, think the under body shape was different and/ or the sill panel was in the way. Then cut off the "extra arm" on one cap and was looking into using that for additional support & rigidity. I`m reminded that it wasn`t feasible for some reason every time I deposit more to my scrap ally pile.

Just burnt the old rubber bushes off the TB plates and used commonly available VW polyurethane ones. As it sounds like you are racing perhaps it may be worthwhile looking into some welding mods. Perhaps use a reinforcing plate of 1/4" flat bar under (between) the two hole mounts. Would spread the load and reduce deformation / possible tearing of the captive nut mounts, especially with heavier TB`s. One advantage to coil overs here is the load is transferred straight to the upper body mount, which I hear from other racers needs some reinforcement anyway.

Could not find pix of the mounting area, only this one of the steel arm. Is the weight savings worth the effort & cost?


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Andrew NZ  



Joined: 22 Jun 2004
Posts: 744
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Herr-Kuhn wrote:
No other mounting provisions for the torsion tube beam other than the 2 bolts as per factory on the 1977?

No, just the stock mounts. I prefer the early setup for racing, as there's no rubber to squish and move between the torsion bar carrier and the frame
Herr-Kuhn wrote:
You did coil overs on this, correct? What spring rates are you running front and rear and how difficult was it to reinforce the frame in the upper rear to allow for good durability back there? I recall you saying you cracked the original frame member with the coil overs. The coil overs are only about +$100 over the big torsion bars, so it's still an option but I'd like to know how hard it is to modify the mount...I assume one just welds on extra metal on either side of the box.

Yes coil overs without torsion bars. There would possibly be less load on the chassis if you had a combination of coilovers and bars, but with the 650 rear springs (and 450 front) I run the whole load goes into the chassis rail. From memory there's a circular insert welded into the chassis that the bolt runs through. One of these cracked around the welds before I added an extra mount to the bolt on the other side of the shock eye to spread the load. I've roughly welded the crack back together for now, but will add reinforcement plates to the inner chassis rail if I ever take the fuel tank out of the car (not a fan of welding right next to the tank!! )

My spring rates aren't quite right for the car as I have less weight than usual in the front, but this was the start point recommended by other racers at the time.
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1977 RX924 race car
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
Posts: 1245
Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my '77 the torsion bar carrier appears to be straight off a Super Beetle. I got inner TB poly bushings for a SB and then used the standard 924/944 adjustable spring plates. I got sway bar brackets from the Portland Porsche dealer(forgot name) and welded them onto the carrier tube. An easy job with the carrier on the floor. I stayed with original steel trailing arms, but used SB trailing arm bushings with new inner sleeves machined for the 12mm bolts rather than the SB 17mm or some such.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 1:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's the weight of the alloy arms? I recall them being quite heavy, and I found myself wondering if they were heavier than the steel pieces
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Raceboy  



Joined: 01 Mar 2004
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Location: Estonia, Europe

PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The weight is the same, they are not lighter than steel arms, but they are more rigid.
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Andrew NZ  



Joined: 22 Jun 2004
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Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For me it was more about width and reliability rather than weight. I was having so many hassles with wheel bearings with the steel arms, and have had none with the alloy ones.
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Herr-Kuhn  



Joined: 03 Jul 2012
Posts: 30
Location: Northern, KY

PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 11:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So if I do fit the aluminium arms, will this be too wide for me to place an 8" rim under the back of the car? I was of the understanding that the arms were the same track width as the steel arms.

I'm likely going to make some braces to tie the torsion bar tube into the frame right at the wheel center, this pinning the torsion loads out on a wider point. From there I'd like to fit a 30mm torsion bar set.

Whatever I do, I need the 928S4 8" rims to fit under the back of the car, so I hope all of these bits can come together to make that happen.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 11:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're sticking with narrow body, you'll need to source the trailing arms from an 86 951 or 87-88 924S. These trailing arms have the same track width as the early steel trailing arms + spacers; i.e., you don't use spacers with the "early offset" alu trailing arms. The 87-onward 944/951 all had the "late offset" alu trailing arms. These will not work with any OEM wheels on a narrow body 924 because they push the hub face out by another 22mm or so, and would consequently require offsets in the 75-85mm range, which are non-existent in OEM wheels.

8" high offset rims like the 52.3mm offset D90s will fit with little issue on such a setup, although some have reported needing to roll the inner rear arches to avoid rubbing (probably somewhat dependent on rear camber settings). I've never had an issue with the 8" D90s on steel or alu arms.

When I test fit the 60mm offset 9" club sport rims on my Euro 931 (with alu trailing arms from 86 951), the inner edge of the wheel rubbed on the brake lines, and it appeared to me that if they had rubber on them, the tires would rub on both the front and rear faces. I've seen one report of these wheels on a narrow body car, but details were scant with respect to tires and camber settings. So it might be doable, but I opted not to pay for the rubber and stuck with 7" wheels (for balance) on all four corners. There aren't too many other 9" high offset OEM wheels.
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Raceboy  



Joined: 01 Mar 2004
Posts: 2327
Location: Estonia, Europe

PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 2:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

To be correct, the rear aluminium trailing arms have all the same width, but the wheel hubs and rear brake rotors are different between 924S/'86 951 and later cars.

With my first rear alloy arm conversion, I bought '90 951 rear arms and found '85/9 944 NA wheel hubs. Made the conversion and bought brand new '86 951 rotors, worked like a charm.
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Herr-Kuhn  



Joined: 03 Jul 2012
Posts: 30
Location: Northern, KY

PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 4:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My rear suspension is directly off of an 87 924S, so then I should be fine. It is still sitting out in the storage shed. I just want to get a 225 in the back with some good compound rubber. Doing any crazyness to the rear quarters is completely out of the question...I want to retain the original lines and the paint in the car is pretty much show quality right now. I've been acquiring parts for many months now. 928S4 brakes, early sport seats, 928S4 wheels, etc., etc.

This bloody project gets deeper and deeper all the time, but upon completion, I'm certain it will be worth it. It sure does look good with the new paint job though...now I just have to make it able to get out of its own way!
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
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Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew NZ wrote:
For me it was more about width and reliability rather than weight. I was having so many hassles with wheel bearings with the steel arms, and have had none with the alloy ones.

How does the arm material influence bearing reliability?
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Raceboy  



Joined: 01 Mar 2004
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Location: Estonia, Europe

PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bearings are different on alloy arms, and better design.
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'67 911 2.4S hotrod
'90 944 S2 Cabriolet
'78 924 Carrera GT replica
'84 928 S, sold
'91 944 S2, sold
'82 924S/931 "Gulf", sold
'84 924, turbocharged, sold.
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