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no crank after HD light switch short
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philk  



Joined: 05 Apr 2012
Posts: 33
Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JoeC -
that's my plan at least the jumper cable part...I will try the solenoid tip too now..

still though those cables need to come out..insulation is cracked and pieces are off...

are the speed and reference sensors the same type of sensor ..ie. 2 of those sensors are used...and also plugs that they connect to ... I can't find a reference for them..where to get new ones if needed...I guess they plug into the DME..
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joecitizennn  



Joined: 12 Sep 2005
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Location: no mans land

PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 12:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes they are the same part, yes they send their information to the DME plug, pins 8 and 27 speed, 25 and 26 refrence. Pinouts for dme plug here

http://www.frwilk.com/the944/connector.htm

You can get the sensors lots of places, a post from Rasta stands out in my mind,

http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=35471
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philk  



Joined: 05 Apr 2012
Posts: 33
Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 12:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe-C -
thanks, I have found sources for the sensors, and the DME page you've linked, but I'm more concerned about the connector and wire going to the DME not coming from the sensor...they're frail looking too..

I found references to "Bosch OEM Miscellaneous Electrical; Terminal Repair Kit For 2 Prong Bosch Injector Type Plug" but I thought,. from the wiring diagram that the sensor connectors are 3 prong..plus I probably need to replace the entire wire path to be safe

all the wires are old and some have been chewed on by rodents..

AutohausAZ had the cheapest sensors by far...so thanks for sending that along..previous cheapest was in the $90s
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philk  



Joined: 05 Apr 2012
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Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe-C - did the jumper cables to the starter, and it started...it did have at least one non-crank, but I think that's cause I didn't have the best connectons with the jumpers..

but it did start several times..

there are no coverings on the solenoid terminals..that doesn't sound very safe..need to get some boots for them..
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joecitizennn  



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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

philk wrote:
Joe-C -
thanks, I have found sources for the sensors, and the DME page you've linked, but I'm more concerned about the connector and wire going to the DME not coming from the sensor...they're frail looking too..



If you get to digging around you will probably find alot of the wiring on your car frail looking with the harness sleeve brittle and cracking. Unless the wires inside are actually damaged I would just leave them. I have only experienced two wire failures within a harness in the 944 engine compartment, one was to an injector, and the other was in the headlight wiring where the harness moves every time the headlights come up.
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philk  



Joined: 05 Apr 2012
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Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 12:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe-C - thanks for the advice..I'll stick to battery cables for the time being..any advice on how to get at the battery ground connection at the rear of the engine?...there's a hose I need to remove and the sensor connections
to get to it from above...that's probably the best approach no?
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edredas  



Joined: 09 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2012 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

philk wrote:
any advice on how to get at the battery ground connection at the rear of the engine?


I realize that your question was directed at Joe, but I thought this picture might help.



This was taken with the head removed. I would think at the very least the intake manifold will need to be removed in order to reach them.
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philk  



Joined: 05 Apr 2012
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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 1:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

edredas - question was for anyone...

thanks for the picture..I knew the location of the connection..I can see it sort of...my plan of attack was to remove the bracket holding the 2 sensor plug connections above the spot, and then trying to remove the hose..that should give me enough access to get at the nut holding the ground cable...

don't want to disconnect the sensor plugs cause I think they'll fall apart ..not quite ready to remove the head, but might need to ll
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joecitizennn  



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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont remember just what I disconnected to clean my grounds, but I do remember that I did it without removing the intake manifold. The rubber hose is to your heater, and the plastic valve on it controls flow to the heater core. If at any point you feel like disconnecting the cable that goes to the valve just keep in mind it can be a pain in the ass to get clipped back on.
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87 924s
88 924SE gone
447 hp cgt clone
87 924S gone
84 944 sold
83 944 sold
89 turbo S LSD, ABS etc
86 951 white rocket
85 944 sport everything.
84 944 sold.
87 944 sold
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philk  



Joined: 05 Apr 2012
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Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 4:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe-C - I planned on just removing the hose and moving it out of the way..don't really want to disconnect more that I need to...that and the bracket holding the sensors..
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philk  



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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2012 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

follow up on my starting problem - went under to remove battery cable off the starter, and found that the nut holding the battery and altermator wires to the starter was loose...way loose ...tightened it up and it starts now...so I'm gonna go slow with the cable replacements...but, the issue of the shorted HD light still remains ... do I just replace and hope for the best or trouble shoot? THen how to proceed...measure votages on the connectors?
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joecitizennn  



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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 2:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would say take your headlight switch out and take it apart. It is not that hard to do, you can get to the release tabs for the switch by reaching up under the dash. It should pop out fron behind and drop down so you can unplug it from the harness if I remember right. The inside of the switch has sliding type contacts that wear over time. If your switch is stuck you will just have to take it out and take it apart and see wtf.
_________________
87 924s
88 924SE gone
447 hp cgt clone
87 924S gone
84 944 sold
83 944 sold
89 turbo S LSD, ABS etc
86 951 white rocket
85 944 sport everything.
84 944 sold.
87 944 sold
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philk  



Joined: 05 Apr 2012
Posts: 33
Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 3:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JoeC -
Did that couple weeks ago and it looks as if something in the switch shorted...plastic is melted...the HD motor relay seems okay - took it out and applied 12V to it and it seems to switch properly..the fuses are okay....bought a new switch but am reluctant to put it in ...could the short just be the contacts loosening and shorting together in the switch or is that unlikely?
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edredas  



Joined: 09 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 3:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The switch only has positive wires. The grounds are at the headlights. If the switch arced and melted, there is something wrong somewhere and it will only happen again.
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philk  



Joined: 05 Apr 2012
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Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

edredas , thanks -- that's interesting...if the wires carry enough current to melt the plastic you'd think the fuse would blow first wouldn't you? it'd have to be an amperage higher than normal carrying capability, to heat up the metal contacts in the switch they're decent sized..guess I have some investigatin' to do..
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