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Ignition system failure.. Alarm System?

 
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Bockscar  



Joined: 16 Nov 2010
Posts: 392
Location: Sandy, Oregon

PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 11:23 am    Post subject: Ignition system failure.. Alarm System? Reply with quote

Ok guys, I've been fighting with my ignition system for a couple days now. So basically here is what's going down: (It's a 1981 turbo btw)

1. Dizzy is new and checks out
2. Cap, rotor, and wires are all new and good
3. Ignition coil checked out good, but I replaced it with a new one anyway

On the ignition coil, 12v come out of the coil to dizzy cap wire. However, when the engine cranks, no spark comes out of the other plug wires.

I crawled under the dash to pull out the ignition control unit, which looked good and new(er). However when I was pulling the ICU I noticed a smaller black box behind it.. The stock alarm brain, complete with German writing on it and everything! I noticed the brand of the alarm was Hella, I found this interested because there are two connectors under the hood hanging behind the intake manifold but against the fender which also read "Hella".

I was not aware that this car came with an alarm system. Double checking the Haynes revealed that the 81 and 82 models indeed came with a (extremely poorly documented) alarm system (page 298 in the book). No information is given about this system other than the wiring diagram. And according to this diagram, terminal K1 on the alarm system connects to the ignition coil and possibly the Fuel Pump Relay.

So all this fun information aside, does anyone have any more information about this alarm system and how to bypass it?
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The lock right behind the driver's door will turn the alarm on or off. I think it might very well be possible to jump the two wires together and thereby bypass the lock; accessible through the vent grill on the B pillar.

Mine is still fully functional.

Does the tach bounce when you crank? Most likely problem with those cars is actually the crank position sensor failing...
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Bockscar  



Joined: 16 Nov 2010
Posts: 392
Location: Sandy, Oregon

PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

924RACR wrote:
The lock right behind the driver's door will turn the alarm on or off. I think it might very well be possible to jump the two wires together and thereby bypass the lock; accessible through the vent grill on the B pillar..


PO didn't have the key for the alarm so I cannot access it that way. However, I was able to jump the alarm, but that did nothing

924RACR wrote:

Does the tach bounce when you crank? Most likely problem with those cars is actually the crank position sensor failing...


The gauges do all sorts of strange things. Someones the gas gauge reads (random) levels of fuel, sometimes the coolant gauge reads a little tiny amount of coolant (yet being unpluged) and sometimes the rpm gauge bounces when i turn the key, sometimes it jumps up to 1.5k, sometimes it jumps to 500, but it always sinks back down to 0. When I crank it, it always drops and stays on 0. We checked the flywheel sensor as per the book and it checked out just fine.

I noticed some funky wiring on the DICU though, take a look here http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=36373
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 4:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mmmm, so your grounds sound to be boogered, for one.

I can't look at my DITC connectors right now, but that sounds really funky. Gonna have to find that tach wire, it should drive both the tach and the fuel pump IIRC...
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ptheskil  



Joined: 03 Aug 2004
Posts: 128
Location: Essex, UK

PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't forget the ignition amplifier on the front lhs wheel arch. This switches the primary coil current under control of the ditc. If this is ng then there will be no spark. I would eliminate the alarm as a source of problems by temporarily running a 12V feed to the ditc and amplfier. If you are not switching the coil current then the fuel pump relay will.not power the fuel pumps of course.
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
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Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 6:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My ignition module broke, the rev counter were bouncing around and suddenly the car stopped working from time to time. Changed it to one on the shelf from a volvo 740 (a std component) and it worked flawless ever since
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Bockscar  



Joined: 16 Nov 2010
Posts: 392
Location: Sandy, Oregon

PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, so lets forget about the fuel thing all together. I'm in the process of converting to EFI. We have the fuel stuff all worked out, we're just not getting spark from the coil. When the engine is cranking, the coil wire is only producing 12 volts.

Aside from that, what is a good way to bypass it? The DITC appears to be getting 12v but it does not appear to have a ground or a tach signal. I haven't messed with the ICU at all. The flywheel sensor appears to be working just fine as well.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know you said not to worry about fuel, but have you eliminated the boost cut-off switch as a possible culprit? If it's disconnected or inoperable you get no power to the FPR. You can bypass it by disconnecting the lead and running it to ground. I attach mine to the alternator housing.
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Bockscar  



Joined: 16 Nov 2010
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ideola wrote:
I know you said not to worry about fuel, but have you eliminated the boost cut-off switch as a possible culprit? If it's disconnected or inoperable you get no power to the FPR. You can bypass it by disconnecting the lead and running it to ground. I attach mine to the alternator housing.


Wait, huh? FPR = Fuel Pressure Regulator, right? How do the two tie together? We actually drilled out the whole where the boost cut-off switch used to be and placed the GM-style air temp sensor there. The air temp sensor for the ignition system is still on the throttle body though.

Now that you mentioned it, anything that was connected to the stock wiring loom has now been removed and discarded. Are there any sensors that may have created dependencies to the ignition system that I should know about?
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FPR = Fuel Pump Relay. As far as I know, the boost cutoff switch lifts ground to the fuel pump relay when boost is exceeded, or when the switch fails or is disconnected. I don't believe it cuts ground to ignition...but I could be wrong about that, because it might be different on DITC equipped cars. It's worth checking out, particularly since it appears you have no ground...
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Bockscar  



Joined: 16 Nov 2010
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ideola wrote:
FPR = Fuel Pump Relay. As far as I know, the boost cutoff switch lifts ground to the fuel pump relay when boost is exceeded, or when the switch fails or is disconnected. I don't believe it cuts ground to ignition...but I could be wrong about that, because it might be different on DITC equipped cars. It's worth checking out, particularly since it appears you have no ground...


When I turn the key to the ignition, the FPR clicks 'on' or whatever it's doing in there. The wiring diagram is so freaking unreliable, i dunno what to believe at this point.

Here's some food for thought

See those two bridged wires? I have no idea what those are. They read battery voltage. And according to the diagram, there should be a solid brown wire that serves as a ground connected to pin 12. Notice what is missing? I'm kind of lost at this point.
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Bockscar  



Joined: 16 Nov 2010
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok guys, lets talk grounds here for a moment. I think we may have isolated the problem.

We reanalyzed the book and wiring diagrams and noticed that all grounds and brown (brown/ground, it rhymes. Silly Germans!). Whilst removing the yucky CIS components, I also removed the nasty wiring harness, the huge one that snakes around from along the fire wall, it has two main connectors and dozens of little connectors that attach to all the anciliery equipment. Coincidentally, there are also a ton ground connections that, since the harness isn't connected, the grounds are not connected.

So the question: Does the main wiring harness have grounds that also apply to the ignition system?
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bockscar wrote:
So the question: Does the main wiring harness have grounds that also apply to the ignition system?


Pretty sure it does. There's a whole pile of grounds that connect on the inside frame spar just behind the driver side headlight bucket. Aside from the various grounds in the sub-harness for the CIS stuff up top, I believe that is the main grounding point for the engine harness.
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924RACR  



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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Definitely, and don't forget also the stack of grounds inside the cabin, behind the fusebox and next to the firewall...
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Bockscar  



Joined: 16 Nov 2010
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Location: Sandy, Oregon

PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 2:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

how are you gentlement. all your ground issues are belong to me.

Turns out that big'ol wiring harness does indeed have grounds for most systems in the car. By disconnecting it, I effectively disabled pretty much everything electronically in the car. There does appear to be two sets of main grounds though, the nest of grounds under the dash as 924RACR pointed out, but also the grounds from the engine wiring harness. To make a long story short, we attached the grounds and now the ignition works.

Lessons Learned:

1. All grounds in the car appear to be solid brown wires
2. Don't write off grounding issues as problem sources!!
3. Don't unplug random wires without knowing what they go to!!
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