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Pulling/Replacing the motor on a Porsche 924 Turbo

 
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Leonov  



Joined: 05 Feb 2012
Posts: 7
Location: Kentucky

PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 3:45 am    Post subject: Pulling/Replacing the motor on a Porsche 924 Turbo Reply with quote

Long story short i am trying to replace my siezed up engine with a new(er) Rebuilt engine for my Porsche 924 Turbo. Does anyone know how to pull an engine (through the top preferibly but can do it through the bottom) And then replace it with the new one ( through the top or out the bottom respectivly).
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 3:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Um. . .yes?
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BionicBalls  



Joined: 05 Jan 2009
Posts: 642
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Um. . .yes?


I believe what Rasta meant to say was:

Motor has to come out the top on the toofa.

Step 1: disconnect all the stuff connected to the motor.

Step 2: Make sure you label all the stuff you disconnect.

Step 3: Pull the motor using a cherry picker.

Real Easy, Only 3 steps.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 2:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Off the top of my head:

Drain oil. Drain coolant.

Remove the radiator and fan, along with all of the front-of-engine hoses.

Remove the AFM+Fuel Distributor assembly (stuff a rag in the turbo inlet).

Remove the oil cooler (three bolts at the fender and two banjo bolts at the oil filter console)

Remove the wastegate, the dump pipe, and unbolt the main exhaust pipe from the turbine housing.

Remove the air-oil separator and its drain line to the oil pan.

Remove the starter. Remove the clutch slave cylinder (might as well drain the brake fluid reservoir at this point).

Unbolt the four bolts that fasten the torque tube to the bell-housing.

Drop the front cross member.

Hook up hoist and ease the engine forward a little bit. Disconnect the heater hoses and all of the engine harness connections.

You should now be able to pull the engine out the top with an engine hoist / crane / cherry picker (or whatever else they call them in your neck of the woods).
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emoore924  



Joined: 13 Apr 2004
Posts: 2822

PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 3:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On a scale of 1-10, 10 being most difficult, this job is about a 9.5 IMHO. You need the right tools, the right place to do it, and teenie tiny arms and fingers that all bend in 4 different directions to get at some of the impossible-to-see-or-reach stuff. So don't underestimate the effort here. This ain't easy.

Alternative:

1) Find competent 924 mechanic. Coax him out of retirement.
2) Trick him into thinking this is as easy as a n/a
3) Drop car off to have engine removed, repairs made
4) Stop back about two months later after repairs are made and engine is back in.
5) Listen to him b*tch to high heaven for 45 minutes about how hard a job it was.
6) Write big check and thank him profusely for his troubles.
7) Thank your lucky stars you found someone else to do this work for you.

Job done.
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Grenadiers  



Joined: 20 Feb 2007
Posts: 3222
Location: Nelson, WI & Prescott, AZ

PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, even with my BenPak car lift, 1000# tranny lift, big-butt engine hoist, it's still in the details that drive you nuts.

I replaced a heater core in a 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse last weekend for a friend. Dash removal, center console removal, etc. In comparison, I'd rather switch out the toofah motor.
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SlayerSST  



Joined: 21 Sep 2010
Posts: 212

PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

--o

Last edited by SlayerSST on Wed Mar 13, 2013 11:15 am; edited 1 time in total
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why bother? The line attaches up top, and must be disconnected. There are only two 13mm bolts that hold the slave in place. You risk damage to the slave and the firewall by leaving it in place, and much easier to detatch the hardline once the slave isremoved from the bell housing.
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9071
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 12:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did actually leave my slave in the car - it's such a PITA to bleed, I preferred to leave it in there, and bolt in when I get the engine back in.

Actually, of course, now with the engine out will be a perfect time to flush/bleed it again... LOL

As an aside... just lapped my block in this past weekend, to improve the finish for the Cometic HG... interesting process. Will probably have to do the same to the head once I get it stripped down for refresh...
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

924RACR wrote:
it's such a PITA to bleed


Motive Power Bleeder


Now available from my website for $53 + shipping.:
http://garage.ideola.com/prod-Tools.html
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tyfighter123  



Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Posts: 551
Location: Colorado

PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Vaughan do you have a "how to" on lapping your block?
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9071
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not really a DIY process - you need access to a lapping plate, big slotted slab of cast iron. See your local machine shop...
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