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To carb or not to carb?

 
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jseabolt  



Joined: 27 Jan 2012
Posts: 18
Location: Kingsport, TN, USA

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 3:30 am    Post subject: To carb or not to carb? Reply with quote

Having owned Fiats for 20 years I know how expensive it is to service the L-jetronic system. It's a good system and mine is still working fine but I have replaced the air flow meter (>$400) and the fuel pump (leaking) so they can be quite expensive to maintain when something does go wrong.

You would think after 35 years these parts would decrease but instead it seems they keep going up! An air flow meter will cost you about as much as a new Weber carb.

Us Fiat guys have found ways to "beat the man" when it comes to Bosch parts. Like A/C Delco and Ford alternators and Weber carbs.

One time a Bosch ignition system "fix" was to subsitute a $15 GM HEI control module for the Bosch control module. I did this on my Yugo.

This 77 924 I'm looking at may have issues with the K-jetronic system. After some reading the warm up regulator may be at fault so that's $300.

Would it be worth it to convert this engine over to a Weber? Did these engines even come with a carb at one time? Wikipedia says this engine was used in the AMC Gremlins. Is that correct? I'm sure these cars used carbs.

I'm not a fan of ditching a perfectly good fuel injection system for a carburator but when push comes to shove it maybe more eccomonically to go that route if this system has issues.

Any comments?
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Khal  



Joined: 26 Sep 2003
Posts: 4872
Location: Sunny and lovely interior BC, Canada

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 3:38 am    Post subject: Re: To carb or not to carb? Reply with quote

jseabolt wrote:
I'm not a fan of ditching a perfectly good fuel injection system for a carburator...


I wouldn't either. There's a reason no-one uses carb's anymore.

If you want cheap, a Porsche, any Porsche, is a poor choice (pun intended).

I would suggest your best bet is to upgrade to electronic fuel injection, rather than downgrade to carb's.

jseabolt wrote:
Did these engines even come with a carb at one time?


As used in the Porsche? Definitely not.

jseabolt wrote:
Wikipedia says this engine was used in the AMC Gremlins. Is that correct?


Sort-of-ish. As I understand it, few of the engine components are exactly the same.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 4:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 2.0L block and head casting were used in several late 70s / early 80s AMC models, including the Gremlin, Spirit and one other model I can't remember at the moment. The AMC motors had a single barrel carb, so not at all what you want.

You can still get 924 carb conversion manifold adapters from European Motorworks which allow a dual DCOE or dual Dellorto setup to be installed. There are several such conversions documented here on the forum if you search.

Now for some financial perspective.

You should be aware that a complete carb conversion will be difficult to achieve for much less than $1000:
- manifold adapter => retails for ~$200
- used carbs => routinely sold on FleaBay for $400-$600
- full rebuild kit => ~$200 (need to verify, haven't checked in a while)
- new jets for carbs => $?
- fuel pump => $?
- FPR => $?
- misc fuel line & linkage bits => $? (most used carb setups will not have the proper linkage arrangement required for the 924, so you'll need to fabricate or buy something).

These are just rough guidelines, I'm sure folks have done it for less, but these numbers will give you an idea of when you're seeing a good deal on the components you'll need.

My point being, for ~$1000, you can get a rebuilt WUR + rebuilt Fuel Distributor + new Fuel pump and have $$$ left over for a new fuel filter and injector cleaning, resulting in a properly functioning CIS system that will likely last another 30 years.

New injectors for the NA are cheap. I strongly recommend buying new ones, or at a minimum sending your set to Jaguar Injector Service (or somewhere similar) and having them ultrasonically cleaned and flow matched. Send your CSV while you're at it. At $18 per injector, it's well worth it and will add minimal cost to a CIS refresh.

The fuel accumulator is the biggest bugaboo (in my opinion) because I'm not aware of a source for rebuilding, and they are expensive to buy as replacements. I know they fail, but I personally have never had one fail on the 8 or 9 running examples I've owned.

The only other component that might push you over the $1000 mark would be if you have to replace the AAV...while they do fail, they primarily affect the cold start / cold running phase, and so can be more easily ignored in the short term.
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Khal  



Joined: 26 Sep 2003
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Location: Sunny and lovely interior BC, Canada

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 5:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Then there's this E.F.I. conversion that looks astoundingly cheap and simple...
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ideola wrote:
My point being, for ~$1000, you can get a rebuilt WUR + rebuilt Fuel Distributor + new Fuel pump and have $$$ left over for a new fuel filter and injector cleaning, resulting in a properly functioning CIS system that will likely last another 30 years.


+1
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the_mad_electrician  



Joined: 16 Nov 2009
Posts: 1073
Location: Central Georgia

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 8:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I get to play devil's advocate. I did a Weber conversion on my 924. I bought the peices mostly off Ebay used it cost me about $600 and I drove the car for 3 year with the Webers. I would have rather had EFI but I only paid $650 for the car and didn't want to spend what I thought was going to be $2000 just to keep it running. That EFI conversion that Khal linked was not on the board until way after I did my carbs or else I would have done it. The car did run fine with the carbs but i'd go with EFI. I guess I didn't play devil's advocate too well...
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staticsan  



Joined: 19 Jan 2009
Posts: 450
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The K-Jetronic system in the 924 is widely reputed to be robust and reliable. The most common expensive bit to fail is the WUR, but rebuilt ones are not hard to find and are considerably cheaper. Other things that die are much cheaper: injectors and air boots, mostly, plus the usual car things (spark plugs and filters).

It is possible to be misled with faults. My WUR needed replacing, but I did only after doing all the cheaper things (there were definitely vacuum leaks) and some careful reading.

Wade.
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Tas931  



Joined: 08 Apr 2010
Posts: 142
Location: Tasmania, Australia

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geeze careful you probably shouldn't use that word around here....

I think it really depends on what situation you're in. Do you know how to tune them up yourself? can you get the parts cheap? do you have other people with knowledge to help you? Do you like them in general?

For me i could pick up the bits very cheap from friends that can also help me tune it right.

if you do not have the resources available then it may be best to go to EFI as you will get loads of good help from this board.

cheers
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you just want to drive get a working WUR there and and enjoy a great car. On my 931 I mounted a great working WUR and ever since its just as good as a modern car (except emissions compared to a modern car of course:)). Idles rock steady at all temperatures, starts at all temperatures and goes great. AFR:s are also rock steady during full load. So it might not be so hard to get your system working perfectly, but the US cars do have a lot of more things under the bonnet..
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jseabolt  



Joined: 27 Jan 2012
Posts: 18
Location: Kingsport, TN, USA

PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cédric wrote:
If you just want to drive get a working WUR there and and enjoy a great car. On my 931 I mounted a great working WUR and ever since its just as good as a modern car (except emissions compared to a modern car of course:)). Idles rock steady at all temperatures, starts at all temperatures and goes great. AFR:s are also rock steady during full load. So it might not be so hard to get your system working perfectly, but the US cars do have a lot of more things under the bonnet..


I've been researching out the K-jet works and I understand it except for one thing. If this is a mechanical injection system then what purpose does the ECU serve? Or were ECUs only installed when oxygen sensors were installed?

Page 16 on this manual shows an ECU and O2 sensor but page 33 does not show an ECU or O2 sensor.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/3299223/Bosch-KJetronic-Fuel-Injection-Manual-

Or is this not a "true" ECU in the same regards as an ECU on an L-jet system? Where as on an L-jet system, the ECU takes inputs from several sensors like the air flow meter, coolant temperature sensor, throttle positioning sensor, etc.

But the ECU on a K-jet just reads an input from the O2 and makes changes to the air/fuel mixture accordingly?

I friend of mine in the Fiat club brought a Fiat 850 coupe with a 124 pushrod engine conversion to our club gathering about 10 years ago. He did away with the carburator and installed a K-jet system from a VW or something.

I never asked him why he went with K-jet but after reading up about it, seems like an easier system to install if your wanting fuel injection.

Everybody these days are big on Megasquirt. I'm sorry but to me that just seems like allot of trouble. I like to keep things simple.

I get asked all the time why I did not Megasquirt my Yugo and decide to blow through a Weber instead. Well it's my car and I want to keep it simple. Gas mileage is not all that great, I will admit. the only major drawback. Otherwise it runs smooth. Especially now I've increased the jetting.
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
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Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm, Yes the ECU is only there if you have a O2 sensor. I wonder how hard it is to convert it to eurospec Withouth all the fuzz
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 3:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No reason to dtich lambda. . .helps pass idle emissions, and off idle, it does nothing.

CIS is on millions of cars. . .this is because it is more efficient than a carb.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 3:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The box to which you refer is not really an ECU, it is the Lambda control box.

The closest thing to an ECU on these cars is the DITC (Digital Ignition & Timing Control) found on the 1981-onward 931, but even that is a stretch to call an ECU, because it only controls ignition timing, nothing else.
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta, true, it's best just not to fiddle with the system. Just make it work like it's supposed to and you will be happy. I have now tested my 931 in -14°C, after 4 months in cold storage, runs perfect, the toyo t1r sucks inn the snow though:-)
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dreamgts  



Joined: 29 Dec 2009
Posts: 504
Location: malta

PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 10:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a webbered 924 which goes well and hasnt given any problems at all till now. I love the webber sound especially when accelerating, if set well they can be a good replacment, and I wouldnt say they are a cheap replacement either. Ialso have a spare DITC which I would like to fit to the car which has a normal ignition system, anyone knows how to go around this or is it or is it a pros job? I guess fitting carbs all depends on what you want your car to be...

dreamgts
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