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datatrain · Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 8:16 am Post subject: Try this, it's easy and it works

I don't remember who wrote this on the board but it's how I do it.

The 138mm measurment procedure is way more complicated than it needs to be. And that turns out to be a rough adjustment for installing a new cable, that you end up fine tuning anyway.

The 1/4" clearance is much easier to perform.

Try it this way, is your clutch cable setup is assembled the way that LIZARD describes. Remember, the whole idea is to get 1/4" of freeplay in the clutch cable, regardless of what you clutch set up looks like.

If you have a nut on each side of the bracket, try doing it this way...

Loosen the lower nut on the side of the bracket towards the clutch so it is at least 1/4" or more from the bracket. Grab the clutch cable housing, and pull up (cable housing moving away from the bracket). While you are pulling on the clutch cable housing, adjust the UPPER nut that is on the clutch cable housing side of the bracket to be 1/4" from the bracket (or the surface that it normal rests against). After you have the nut adjusted for the 1/4" clearance to the bracket, release the clutch cable housing, and go ahead and wind the LOWER locking nut back up against the bracket.

If you can't get the clearance up to 1/4" because the nut on housing end is screwed all the way onto the threaded portion of the cable housing (and the clearance is still more than 1/4"), or the threaded end of the cable housing is too short to allow the 1/4" clearance, and you can't get the locking nut back on, then you have other problems with the clutch (worn out or something is broken).

It is my experience that most clutch setups made by Sachs are designed for a 1/4" of clutch cable freeplay, regardless of the manufacturer of the car.

This really is the easiest way to get your clutch cable adjusted properly. Doing this procedure only take 2 minutes, and you don;t have to jack the car up, crawl under the car, or twist yourself up under the dashboard.
_________________
'78 924 NA with Collector plate
33 year old car, with me for 21 yrs
Mint '92 318i BMW
Near mint '98 Buick LeSabre
VE7HFR

Kongle · Joined: 21 Feb 2011 Posts: 9 Location: New Zealand

Yes .. I did pretty much exactly as

datatrain · Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 8:57 am Post subject: Reverse noise

FWIW Mine is a 4 speed and As long as I've had the car (21 years) I've had to go into a forward gear before reverse to stop it making a grind noise.

The other shift problem is beyond my knowledge.
_________________
'78 924 NA with Collector plate
33 year old car, with me for 21 yrs
Mint '92 318i BMW
Near mint '98 Buick LeSabre
VE7HFR

Paul · Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:10 am Post subject:

Part of the problem may be rust on the flywheel and pressure plate. The clutch lining thickness looks good.
_________________
White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.

gohim · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 4459 Location: Rialto, CA

Adjust the clutch from under the hood, not in the car.

The simple way is to grab the clutch cable above where it rests and pull on it. Look at the gap between the base of the cable and the support bracket. Set the gap to 1/4" and tighten the locknut.

No need to get all complicated.

Kongle · Joined: 21 Feb 2011 Posts: 9 Location: New Zealand

Thanks for all your advice .. I got a clutch kit LUK and the mechanic said he thinks its the pressure plate is faulty / broken as the clutch peddle is really hard to push down