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jerseyben
Joined: 05 Apr 2010 Posts: 22 Location: USA
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Posted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 9:45 pm Post subject: brakes |
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Please delete.
Last edited by jerseyben on Wed Aug 04, 2010 2:12 am; edited 1 time in total |
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TJC

Joined: 04 Apr 2010 Posts: 828 Location: Northwestern-ish Arizona, USA
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Posted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 12:12 am Post subject: |
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The hub/front rotor assembly must be taken off as the bolts securing the rotor to the hub are on the "inside". The torque value is 17 foot pounds. This is a good time to buy front seals and re-pack the front wheel bearings.
I think you may still purchase the pins from Porsche, alternatively check online at Pelican, Az autohaus, etc. Worse comes to worse try scoring some from a member here or a 944 forum.
I'd first measure the inside "brake drum" diameter of the old and new rotors to see if they are the same. Make sure the contacting friction surfaces (NOT the linings) of the parking brake shoes to backing plate are properly lubricated and that the shoes are centered on the backing plate. Make sure the parking brake is properly adjusted as there should be no pre-load on the cable. Make sure the new rotors are fitting flush on the hub and not in a bind. The torque value for the screws that hold the rotor to the hub is 3.7 foot pounds. The caliper bolts should be torqued to 63 foot pounds.
It's a start, hope this helps! _________________ '95 BMW 318i/5 ..."Pearl"
'87 Porsche 944 NA... "Liebchen"
'02 Porsche Boxster..."Sunbeam"
'04 BMW X3..."Xander"
Still on the Prowl!
www.ttrs1.com |
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Rasta Monsta

Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11733 Location: PacNW
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Posted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 1:32 am Post subject: |
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You may have to relax the cable in order to set up your new rear discs. This is done at the handbrake lever. . .loosen the locknut, then turn the threaded tube to loosen.
Brake hardware kits are a bit spendy, but necessary. I would plan on buying four.
You should also plan to disassemble the calipers completely, and remove all the rust from both parts (sliding frame, and mount). Reassemble with a light coat of high temp grease on the sliding rails, and make sure the assembly moves freely. The rear calper has a plastic "helper" on the slide that is probably missing, and which I believe you can only get with a rear seal kit (which are cheap). _________________ Toofah King Bad
- WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
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gohim
Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 4459 Location: Rialto, CA
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Posted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 1:49 am Post subject: |
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Not sure how brake hardware is sold anymore, but used to be Porsche sold the individual pieces, axle sets were available (and brake hardware was included with brake pads sets (discontinued for years). Axle sets were about $65-$75 each. Individual pieces (pins, clips, springs) run from $8-$15 each.
The plastic friction sliders are only available with the seal kits. Seal kits run $15-$25 each (a kit does one caliper).
Assembly calipers using brake fluid (messy) or silicone brake assembly grease. Do not use wheel bearing grease on the insides of the calipers (can use on the slider surfaces).
There are machined steps on the brake piston contact surface. The step MUST BE adjusted to contact the back of the brake pad at a specific angle to the ground/horizontal (I think it's 20 degrees). I made a jig out of a piece of a poly plastic cutting board to set the angle when I'm rebuilding brake calipers. Angling the "step" on the brake caliper pistons helps initial braking by putting "toe-in" the brake pads in, so they pull themselves onto the rotors. |
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jerseyben
Joined: 05 Apr 2010 Posts: 22 Location: USA
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Posted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 5:16 am Post subject: |
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Ok. I will try loosening the brake cable.
Does anyone have 2 good sets of caliper pins (rear) they could sell me, please? |
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gohim
Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 4459 Location: Rialto, CA
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Posted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 5:57 am Post subject: |
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I found the hardware sets at a Seller that I order VW Parts from instead of the VW Dealer. Prices are very good, quality is excellent, Customer Service is good, and ground shipping is free on orders over $50.
This is autohausaz.com
Makes > 1984 Porsche > 944 > Brake & Wheel Hub > Brake Hardware Kit
Part Number Brand / Description / Restrictions List Core Your Price Qty Select
94435195201
ATE
Brake Hardware Kit; Front Pad Mounting Hardware
Kit includes 4 retaining pins, 2 spring clips, 4 securing clips, and 2 retaining springs. 1 kit per car. $73.66 $57.33
$60.35
SALE
94435295200
Porsche (OE)
Brake Hardware Kit; Rear Pad Mounting Hardware
Kit includes 4 retaining pins, 2 spring clips, 4 securing clips, and 2 retaining springs. 1 kit per car. $78.08 $58.92
$62.02
SALE |
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jerseyben
Joined: 05 Apr 2010 Posts: 22 Location: USA
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Posted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 3:28 am Post subject: |
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Please delete.
Last edited by jerseyben on Wed Aug 04, 2010 2:12 am; edited 1 time in total |
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gohim
Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 4459 Location: Rialto, CA
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Posted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 8:25 am Post subject: |
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You're obviously very inexperienced in general automobile maintenance from the questions that you are asking. I suggest that you buy the Porsche Factory Service Manual for your car, along with the Haynes Service Manual.
The Haynes Manual is pretty worthless, but it does cover some general service automobile information that you may not find in the Factory Service Manual.
Wheel hubs with loose/tapered bearings are not torque to spec. They're tightened to feel/visual. You need some experience adjusting and tightening wheel with loose/tapered bearings to get this right.
Buy the manuals, read the related sections. Practice before final adjusment and closing up. |
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TJC

Joined: 04 Apr 2010 Posts: 828 Location: Northwestern-ish Arizona, USA
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Posted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 11:43 am Post subject: |
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| gohim wrote: | You're obviously very inexperienced in general automobile maintenance from the questions that you are asking. I suggest that you buy the Porsche Factory Service Manual for your car, along with the Haynes Service Manual.
The Haynes Manual is pretty worthless, but it does cover some general service automobile information that you may not find in the Factory Service Manual.
Wheel hubs with loose/tapered bearings are not torque to spec. They're tightened to feel/visual. You need some experience adjusting and tightening wheel with loose/tapered bearings to get this right.
Buy the manuals, read the related sections. Practice before final adjusment and closing up. |
+1, But please take these comments as constructive suggestions, and not as a personal critique. I commend anybody that is willing to work on their own vehicle and learn from the experience, but in this case, especially as there is a safety issue involved, perhaps you may also seek out someone in your area that has a bit more knowledge of the situation to guide you along and make sure that you won't make a serious mistake.
You can only learn so much from internet exchanges...to do this job correctly takes practical knowledge and at least some experience, whether that comes from you or a trusted mentor. _________________ '95 BMW 318i/5 ..."Pearl"
'87 Porsche 944 NA... "Liebchen"
'02 Porsche Boxster..."Sunbeam"
'04 BMW X3..."Xander"
Still on the Prowl!
www.ttrs1.com |
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bcblase

Joined: 23 Oct 2007 Posts: 574 Location: Winchester, VA
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Posted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 10:18 am Post subject: |
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The front rotors can be removed without removing the hub, but only if the front dust shields have been removed. The first time I disassembled my front hubs to change the wheel bearings, I removed the dust shields.
When you remove the hub/rotor from the spindle, the front dust seal will come out with the hub, and maybe the outside bearing.
The spindle nut needs to be hand-tightened so that the thrust washer is barely loose against the bearing. Read about it here:
www.clarks-garage.com
Brad _________________ 1987 Porsche 924S - track toy
1986 Mercedes 190E 2.3-16v - autocross
2007 F-150 5.4L Lariat Supercrew - tow beast
1994 Volvo 850 Race Wagon - 24 Hours of Lemons Car
2001 BMW 325xi - daily driver |
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