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Wastegate advice please
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campbellr  



Joined: 25 May 2010
Posts: 6
Location: UK

PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2010 3:02 am    Post subject: Wastegate advice please Reply with quote

I've got a UK Series 2 turbo and have just had the wastegate removed as it was making a (very) loud clicking noise when you pressed the gas pedal quickly. We found damage to the internal walls of the spring housing and it looks like the spring was not being retained propery. It was quite a mess!

I've just bought a second hand US spec wastegate as a temporary solution. The spring housing has an iron insert at one end which holds the spring properly (which my UK housing did not have).

Now to the questions!

The US wastegate spring is about 2" shorter than the UK spring. I guess this is because the US cars ran with less boost but 2" seems a lot. Can anyone confirm what the spring lengths should be?

Anyone know where I can buy UK/ROW spec springs?

I heard there was someone in the US selling new dual port wastegates; any ideas who they are?

What's the easiest way to measure the boost pressure once I get the wastegate back on? Is it a DIY job or will I need to take the car to a garage?

Is there a link anywhere on the forum which gives an easy to understand explanation of how boost controllers work?

New member : first post : thanks for any advice you can give.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2010 3:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't know the lengths offhand, but the US spring will be shorter and produce lower boost. If you get a boost controller, there's no need to replace the spring as you can use the controller to adjust the boost back to ROW (or higher) specs.

All boost controllers work on essentially the same principle, albeit with some variations in implementation. On our cars, there is a "boost actuator" line that carries pressurized air from the charge tube to the lower wastegate port. When there is enough pressure in this line to overcome the stiffness of the spring, the wastegate valve opens and bleeds off excess boost to the atmosphere, thereby preventing an overboost situation. What a boost controller typically does is to provide another bleed-off point in-line with the boost actuator line. By adjusting how much of the boost signal is bled off from the boost actuator line (i.e., the boost signal that is making it to the lower port of the wastegate), you can configure the car to see MORE boost at the intake before the wastegate cracks open.

The cool thing about our wastegates is that they are dual port already. The top fitting can be replaced with a line and banjo bolt. What you can then do is to take the bled-off signal from the boost controller itself (mentioned above) and route that bled-off pressurized air to the TOP port of the wastegate. What this effectively does is to prevent what is known as "wastegate creep"; in reality, the wastegate spring will begin to creep open even before the theoretical "full boost" level is seen at the bottom port. This is known as wastegate creep, and has the effect of making the onset of boost seem less responsive. Probably OK on a street driven civilized car, but not ideal from a top performance perspective. By using the boost controller's bled-off signal to hold the spring in place from the top, you can minimize the amount of wastegate creep, causing full boost to come on sooner since the wastegate isn't opening prematurely.

Tial are one of the leading manufacturers of lightweight, aftermarket dual-port wastegates. But on our cars, there's really no need to upgrade unless you're looking to shave every last ounce of weight. The OEM unit, though a bit heavy by today's standards, is quite robust (identical to the 930 unit).
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9xx  



Joined: 18 Jun 2006
Posts: 627
Location: Jarvenpaa, Finland

PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2010 3:41 am    Post subject: Re: Wastegate advice please Reply with quote

campbellr wrote:
The US wastegate spring is about 2" shorter than the UK spring. I guess this is because the US cars ran with less boost but 2" seems a lot. Can anyone confirm what the spring lengths should be?


Interesting. I bought a spring from international dealer and he said it was a 0.8 bar spring. This particular spring is noticeably longer than Row series 2 0,65 bar spring. However, it only produces 0.5 bar of boost. So the length doesn't necessarily tell the whole truth.



campbellr wrote:
Anyone know where I can buy UK/ROW spec springs?


I have two extra Row springs. The one that is available is either 0.7 bar or 0.65 bar spring. It actually came from UK car. The other one is a 0.65 bar spring but I plan to keep it. Let me know if you want to buy the other one. It is not expensive.
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Mikko

All gone: 931 '82 Alpine White, original option "220" G31 with LSD + 3 x 944
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2010 4:31 am    Post subject: Re: Wastegate advice please Reply with quote

campbellr wrote:
have just had the wastegate removed as it was making a (very) loud clicking noise when you pressed the gas pedal quickly.

The loud click is normal, and it's not from the wastegate. There's a bypass valve built into the front side of the turbo. It's controlled by engine vacuum - a large vac line runs from it to the bottom of intake runner #1 of the intake manifold. You should have heard it click both on opening and closing of the throttle. If you don't hear it, then something's wrong. -So don't be disappointed if that sound is still there after all this work.
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campbellr  



Joined: 25 May 2010
Posts: 6
Location: UK

PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 5:26 am    Post subject: Re: Wastegate advice please Reply with quote

Smoothie wrote:
campbellr wrote:
have just had the wastegate removed as it was making a (very) loud clicking noise when you pressed the gas pedal quickly.

The loud click is normal, and it's not from the wastegate. There's a bypass valve built into the front side of the turbo. It's controlled by engine vacuum - a large vac line runs from it to the bottom of intake runner #1 of the intake manifold. You should have heard it click both on opening and closing of the throttle. If you don't hear it, then something's wrong. -So don't be disappointed if that sound is still there after all this work.


Just how loud should the click be? This is really loud!

There was damage to the wastegate internally. The spring was not centred and was scraping on the inside wall of the spring casing.
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924guy  



Joined: 29 Dec 2003
Posts: 2088
Location: Port St. Lucie, FL

PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

stock us spec series 2 spring vs 1.1 bar 930 spring...



stock spring in wg:
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Uploaded with ImageShack.us

assembled with diaphragm (before rebuilding):

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campbellr  



Joined: 25 May 2010
Posts: 6
Location: UK

PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The loud click is normal, and it's not from the wastegate. There's a bypass valve built into the front side of the turbo.


Can you tell me what the bypass valve does?
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Rich H  



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Posts: 2665
Location: Preston, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 3:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its a recirc dump valve. It dumps the boost from the pressure side of the compressor to the intake side. With a 'CLACK' at low speed
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9xx  



Joined: 18 Jun 2006
Posts: 627
Location: Jarvenpaa, Finland

PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 4:17 am    Post subject: Re: Wastegate advice please Reply with quote

campbellr wrote:
There was damage to the wastegate internally. The spring was not centred and was scraping on the inside wall of the spring casing.


I believe this is quite common. There was similar damage in a wastegate I rebuilt, although it wasn't that bad. This particular wastegate is now working very well. Some wall scraping isn't the end of the world.
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peterld  



Joined: 10 Dec 2006
Posts: 981
Location: Noosa Heads QLD Australia

PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The wastegate spring tends to cock over at an angle inside the housing during use, and ultimately frets away at the inside of the housing causing grooves in symmetry to the coils of the spring. Although it looks horrible, unless the grooves are so deep as to actually wear through the housing, rebuild it with a new diaphram and set and forget.
I've rebuilt two 931/2 wastegates and a 930 unit, and they all exhibited the same problem, exacerbated by heavier boost spring, in the case of the 930. One other 930 housing was very badly gouged out.
BTW make sure the halves of the housing are indexed correctly before reassembly, otherwise you will need to pull it out and split the casing and do it all over again. Oh, and you'll need a fat friend to sit on the housing so that you can start the six little bolts, especially if you've installed a new or upgraded spring.
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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
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Location: Australia

PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 2:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

peterld wrote:
Oh, and you'll need a fat friend to sit on the housing so that you can start the six little bolts, especially if you've installed a new or upgraded spring.



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Rich H  



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Posts: 2665
Location: Preston, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 4:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

do you mind - I was eating...
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stevekat  



Joined: 19 Jan 2008
Posts: 719
Location: Los Angeles, CA

PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are a few data points re: spring. No conclusive, but should give you a sense of things.

http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?p=273887&highlight=#273887
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damn, Rog.

FWIW, length on these isn't the end-all. I have a .5, .8 (930) and a 1.0 (Weltmeister) and the lengths don't correspond at all to stiffness (no, Rog, NO)!
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peterld  



Joined: 10 Dec 2006
Posts: 981
Location: Noosa Heads QLD Australia

PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

+ 1 ^.......Isn't that what the actress said to the bishop?

I have a new 1 bar spring and a used 1 bar spring, amongst others, and none are the same length. In fact the used 1 bar spring is longer than the new 1 bar spring. The only way to properly test is in a spring compression machine, starting at the included height that the spring would sit in the wastegate housing.

Oh Rog.......just love your work!!
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