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the4ork · Joined: 17 Dec 2009 Posts: 68 Location: lemoore California

started the car up, cold, and unplugged the warm up regulator, engine ran exactly the same...

is it bad?

Rasta Monsta · Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11733 Location: PacNW

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Toofah King Bad

WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

Smoothie · Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 6:33 pm Post subject:

What Jimbo's trying to say is the electric connected to the WUR only powers a heater within. The heat affects a bi-metallic strip that opens-closes the WUR based on temperature. Heat that affects it comes from both the built-in heater and conducted engine temperature. -And obviously the electric heater affects it quicker than the engine-conducted heat, but it's a gradual process either way.
Same deal for the AAV and the TTS (electric to both of them also powers built-in heaters).
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."

'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

the4ork · Joined: 17 Dec 2009 Posts: 68 Location: lemoore California

i know it gets heat from the engine as it warms out the metal in the manifold... but should unplugging it change something? i thought those heaters were pretty on/off (electric)

im just being paranoid and trying to check everythign, i have to smog this month and im worried.

since the exhaust "fell off" the other day i got a chance to look at my cat... and its perfect inside

Duncan · Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 9:03 am Post subject:

If you check the K-Jetronic book from Bosch, there is a graph that shows for different ambient temperatures when the final control pressure has to be reached. It is of the order of 2 minutes. If you connect your CIS pressure gauge you will see if this happens. I do not think you will reach the final control pressure in 2 minutes only through the heat of the engine.

So the wur is not on/off...

1) Study the book
2) Get yourself a pressure tester
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1983 NA Alpineweiss since 2001
Peugeot 205 Generation

leadfoot · Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 10:43 am Post subject:

not necessarily your answer but something that should take you 5 minutes to rule out....
did you check if it is getting 12V at the connector?
this is probably the most common question I ask in my line of work....
Is it plugged in and turned on at the power point??

If the answers no, then check there is continuity to ground at the connector and trace back the 12V line using the electrical diagrams for your model until you get to the point of power.
This is usually through either a shared component line , relay, fuse in that order.

If you have power at the shared component it's time to check continuity of the cable between them and replace if necessary,

power at the relay gets broken down into two components, supply power and control power circuits. Supply being from the fuse to the relay via the battery, control being the switched signal circuit, i.e indicator lever/horn button etc.
this cicuit tells the relay to close and supply power to your instrument.

lastly blown fuse, find and replace, der it's blown....
If it's blows again after replacement you probably should have checked there was no short to earth in the wiring, but since you didn't let do it now before wasting another 28 cents...
Stu
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1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress...

Duncan · Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 6:09 pm Post subject:

Stu is right,

You should buy a male and female junior power timer connector to make two test leads and measure both the ohmic resistance of the wur and the voltage at the connector.

I actually replaced all the JPT connectors, all with new rubber boots as well.
It's not expensive and easy work. Get some extra terminals ( I screwed up 4-5 until I fully understood the crimping tool)
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1983 NA Alpineweiss since 2001
Peugeot 205 Generation