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Grenadiers
Joined: 20 Feb 2007
Posts: 3222
Location: Nelson, WI & Prescott, AZ
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 Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 12:59 am Post subject: |
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Does your air meter plate move up and down, and not stuck? If stuck, the rod thingy might be stuck as well. From your report, the varnish level in the fuel system seemed pretty high. From my desk, it 'looks' like you might have internal varnish problems in the fuel distributor.
I had a problem like that with the new Euro car. The air meter plate didn't move, so I took it all apart, had nothing to lose of course! The control plunger was stuck, and after pulling everthing apart, cleaning off the varnish, it looks brand new. However, it doesn't move up and down very smoothly, in fact, it still binds. The upper and lower chambers were varnish free. I might have to find a new used CIS distributor, which I have on the shelf.
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'83 944 Track car.
'88 924S Track car.
'89 944 Turbo
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tbramich
Joined: 02 Dec 2009
Posts: 25
Location: charlotte nc USA
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| Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 2:00 pm Post subject: |
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yep i think its the booster leaking.
the clutch master is just to the side of it, followed the line when i was trouble shooting the leak, but thanks.
still cant find the clutch slave though, any tips? |
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ideola
Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI
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| Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 8:59 pm Post subject: |
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| tbramich wrote: | | still cant find the clutch slave though, any tips? |
Yuck. If your booster is full of fluid and leaking, you're going to need to replace it along with the master.
The clutch slave is on the bell housing, LHS of the car, just above the starter. You must remove the starter to get to it. Don't forget to remove BOTH battery cables when removing the starter!
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erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made |
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tbramich
Joined: 02 Dec 2009
Posts: 25
Location: charlotte nc USA
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| Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:23 pm Post subject: |
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" You must remove the starter to get to it."
dang no wonder why i couldn't find it-- thanks |
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tbramich
Joined: 02 Dec 2009
Posts: 25
Location: charlotte nc USA
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| Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:25 pm Post subject: |
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my plate will go down if i push it and slowly returns on its own, is that correct operation?
if i pull that unit apart does it need to have a new gasket or is it a rubber seal?
thanks
| Grenadiers wrote: | Does your air meter plate move up and down, and not stuck? If stuck, the rod thingy might be stuck as well. From your report, the varnish level in the fuel system seemed pretty high. From my desk, it 'looks' like you might have internal varnish problems in the fuel distributor.
I had a problem like that with the new Euro car. The air meter plate didn't move, so I took it all apart, had nothing to lose of course! The control plunger was stuck, and after pulling everthing apart, cleaning off the varnish, it looks brand new. However, it doesn't move up and down very smoothly, in fact, it still binds. The upper and lower chambers were varnish free. I might have to find a new used CIS distributor, which I have on the shelf. |
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ideola
Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI
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| Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:59 pm Post subject: |
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| tbramich wrote: | " You must remove the starter to get to it."
dang no wonder why i couldn't find it-- thanks |
It's not as bad as it sounds. Disconnect both battery cables. Put the car up on stands. Grab an 8mm, 10mm 13mm, and 19mm wrench. Crawl under the car, and remove the 8mm and 13mm nuts holding the starter harness on. Remove the two 19mm bolts holding the starter in place (one on each side of the bell housing). Pull the starter out. Easy access to the slave cylinder.
You'll probably want to get some PB Blaster and metric line wrenches. Soak the hardline connections in the pentratiting oil for a good couple of hours, if not over night, and then carefully remove them using a line wrench. This will help you avoid rounding off the nuts. I believe the hardline nuts are 11mm, but I could be wrong about that.
Once you have the hardline out of the way, I believe the slave cylinder is held in place by two 10mm bolts or nuts. They might be 13mm. Can't remember.
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erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made |
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Smoothie
Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)
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tbramich
Joined: 02 Dec 2009
Posts: 25
Location: charlotte nc USA
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| Posted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 9:05 am Post subject: |
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| thanks guys. plan to get on it tonight. so where is the cheapest place to buy this stuff new? found some used parts but dont want to have to do it 2 times |
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ideola
Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI
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| Posted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 9:19 am Post subject: |
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| tbramich wrote: | | thanks guys. plan to get on it tonight. so where is the cheapest place to buy this stuff new? found some used parts but dont want to have to do it 2 times |
Call Don Weaver at EBS and tell him Dan Beckett referred you: 800.462.3774
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erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made |
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tbramich
Joined: 02 Dec 2009
Posts: 25
Location: charlotte nc USA
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| Posted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 1:58 pm Post subject: |
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thank you sir
i bought a haynes manual and did some reading on the turbo and fuel distribution tonight. so of course i have questions now 
is the 'pop off' valve the waste gate? and can you increase the boost buy changing the spring to a stiffer spring?
what exactly does the 'boost switch' on the intake just over the top of the spark plugs do? the way i read it was that it cuts off some electrical power to something if the car hits 21 psi of boost. is that correct?
| ideola wrote: | | tbramich wrote: | | thanks guys. plan to get on it tonight. so where is the cheapest place to buy this stuff new? found some used parts but dont want to have to do it 2 times |
Call Don Weaver at EBS and tell him Dan Beckett referred you: 800.462.3774 |
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Smoothie
Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)
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| Posted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 2:39 pm Post subject: |
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| tbramich wrote: |
is the 'pop off' valve the waste gate? and can you increase the boost buy changing the spring to a stiffer spring?
what exactly does the 'boost switch' on the intake just over the top of the spark plugs do? the way i read it was that it cuts off some electrical power to something if the car hits 21 psi of boost. is that correct? |
No, "pop-off" valve (more correctly referred-to as "turbo recirculation valve") is built into the compressor side of the turbo.
There's also a "push-up" valve built into the fuel pressure regulator in the fuel distributor.
The wastegate is only called "wastegate" or "WG" abbreviated.
yes, at ~21psi, the boost switch switches off the ground to the fuel pump relay, which cuts power to the fuel pumps.
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."
'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox |
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tbramich
Joined: 02 Dec 2009
Posts: 25
Location: charlotte nc USA
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| Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 12:04 pm Post subject: |
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Don hooked me up today with some good prices thanks Dan.
got my distribution block all apart and man what a mess. 2 of the lines are clogged solid full of gunk. letting them soak in cleaner now and paln to have it back in the car 2nite.
the guy i got the car from called to tell me tht he forgot to mention the 2nd gear synchros might be shot, anyone know if those parts are available? at a little later date i'll rebuild that also. |
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tbramich
Joined: 02 Dec 2009
Posts: 25
Location: charlotte nc USA
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| Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 12:06 pm Post subject: |
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when it cuts power to the pumps does it send it to ground all the time? my fuel pump + side is always at ground. in the interim i bypassed it directly to the battery so i can test my fuel system.
i'll get back to that after the fuel system works correctly by passed
| tbramich wrote: | thank you sir
i bought a haynes manual and did some reading on the turbo and fuel distribution tonight. so of course i have questions now
is the 'pop off' valve the waste gate? and can you increase the boost buy changing the spring to a stiffer spring?
what exactly does the 'boost switch' on the intake just over the top of the spark plugs do? the way i read it was that it cuts off some electrical power to something if the car hits 21 psi of boost. is that correct?
| ideola wrote: | | tbramich wrote: | | thanks guys. plan to get on it tonight. so where is the cheapest place to buy this stuff new? found some used parts but dont want to have to do it 2 times |
Call Don Weaver at EBS and tell him Dan Beckett referred you: 800.462.3774 |
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ideola
Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI
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| Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 12:21 pm Post subject: |
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Re-read the first bullet point listed under the Prerequisites section in this thread.
As for 2nd gear synchros, I don't think there are any available anywhere. However, you might check the source listed in this thread, who apparently has 1st gear synchros available...maybe he can get or has 2nd gear too.
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erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made |
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tbramich
Joined: 02 Dec 2009
Posts: 25
Location: charlotte nc USA
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| Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 1:44 pm Post subject: |
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thanks but it still doesnt answer my question.
when it fails does it send the + side to ground all the way back tot he fuel pump? all i can find on it was it grounds the relay but that should not turn my + lead into a - one. just make it an open circuit- but thats what i can see in th wiring schematics maybe it does ground it and not just make it an open
i reread that about 5 times. being honest i didnt get to disconnect it and test with a meter tonight but i should get to it tomorrow |
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924 FAQ (Technical)
