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What oil weight is being run in 924S's?
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Osiris  



Joined: 01 May 2003
Posts: 91
Location: Muncie, IN

PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 1:05 pm    Post subject: What oil weight is being run in 924S's? Reply with quote

I always run 20W-50 in the summer as it reaches 85+ quite regularly and switch to 10W-30 in the winter. Does this sound okay? I guess I could run 10W-30 all year long. The manual doesn't list any specific oil weight to use.
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joecitizennn  



Joined: 12 Sep 2005
Posts: 2096
Location: no mans land

PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 4:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I run 5w30 in temperatures below freezing.
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Mav666  



Joined: 16 May 2008
Posts: 47
Location: Newcastle, UK

PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 5:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doesn't really get that cold over here, but on the last change I used 10/40, with the age of the car I'll probably use 20/50 next time though
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bcblase  



Joined: 23 Oct 2007
Posts: 574
Location: Winchester, VA

PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A lot of older Porsches are running the ZDDP enhanced oils. Zinc Dialkyl-Dithio-Phosphate (ZDDP) was used in oil up until the late 80's and then removed because of environmental concerns. You can't run ZDDP in newer cars because of the advanced catalytic converters, but it is recommended for older cars like the 924S.

Brad Penn and a couple of other racing oils have it already. And there are several commercially available additives that can be added to regular API rated motor oils.

FWIW, I run Castrol 10w30 year 'round. I am going to start adding a product called "ZDDP Plus" with the next oil change, or switch over to Brad Penn oil (the green stuff).

Just type "ZDDP" into Google and you'll get all the info you need.
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joecitizennn  



Joined: 12 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used valvoline VR1 for its ZDDP for a while, but switched to Valvoline full synthetic. I have been so pleased with the results I use nothing else, outside of mobil 1.

Using Valvoline full synthetic, my engine oil turns only slightly amber in 3000 miles. It is so clean you can see light through the stream when it is draining. The magnet on the oil plug is always clean too. I remember when running standard oil there would be a grey smudge on the magnet at oil changes. not now
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Portporschedon  



Joined: 10 Aug 2006
Posts: 34
Location: West coast of Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2009 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After reading posts on the unsuitability of modern oils for older cars, due to a reduction in ZDDP, I am now using the recommended weight of oil, but for diesel engines.
I mentioned this to a local mechanic and he just said " yep.....that s right!".
The car is in regular daily use with mixed long and short journeys and the only thing I have noticed is that my oil consumption has decreased.

By the way....Merry Christmas!
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Andre'  



Joined: 21 Feb 2009
Posts: 85
Location: North Carolina (Blue Ridge Mountains)

PostPosted: Sat Dec 26, 2009 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bcblase wrote:
A lot of older Porsches are running the ZDDP enhanced oils. Zinc Dialkyl-Dithio-Phosphate (ZDDP) was used in oil up until the late 80's and then removed because of environmental concerns. You can't run ZDDP in newer cars because of the advanced catalytic converters, but it is recommended for older cars like the 924S.

Brad Penn and a couple of other racing oils have it already. And there are several commercially available additives that can be added to regular API rated motor oils.

FWIW, I run Castrol 10w30 year 'round. I am going to start adding a product called "ZDDP Plus" with the next oil change, or switch over to Brad Penn oil (the green stuff).

Just type "ZDDP" into Google and you'll get all the info you need.



Great suggestion! Just switched over to Brad Penn myself on the 993, and will switch over on the 924s. Strongly suggested on all engines with only 2 valves, which utilize stronger valve springs vs. 4 valve engines. ZDDP will also reduce wear when starting the engine at start-up in the morning, or when engines are started up after an longer period of time! I'm using 20W50 but you're located farther North so 10W30 or even 5W30 should be all right.

Andre'
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jrrhdmust  



Joined: 19 Mar 2008
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Location: Middle Georgia

PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amsoil 5w30 for me year round....
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ic932  



Joined: 11 Feb 2005
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Location: UK

PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 5:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use cheapo halfords..the one that says for modern fuel injected cars. I think its the turqoise coloured one? Oil pressure gauge seems to like it.
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bcblase  



Joined: 23 Oct 2007
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Location: Winchester, VA

PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you still have to buy Amsoil through a local "dealer"? I didn't know it was still around - I used it back in the '80s. I think it was one of the first true synthetic oils?

Brad
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ic932  



Joined: 11 Feb 2005
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Location: UK

PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bcblase wrote:
Do you still have to buy Amsoil through a local "dealer"? I didn't know it was still around - I used it back in the '80s. I think it was one of the first true synthetic oils?

Brad
Why would you use synthetic oil in a non- turbo application? Is this just money to burn?
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jrrhdmust  



Joined: 19 Mar 2008
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Location: Middle Georgia

PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Absolutely disagree.

I am a gear head big time. Synthetic not only reduces temperatures of the engine, but reducing friction, thereby reducing wear, but it also has a better additive package to reduce internal corrosion. Synthetic is also a lot more resilient to temperature spikes.

Lets say you over heat your car. If you run dino oil at 290 degrees for 5 minutes you have now lost 10 percent of the viscosity of the oil. For every minute over 300 with dino oil you loose 10 percent.

Yes it is more expensive, however since i have now pulled apart the 924s, a Ford 351C, a Ford 289 and a Harly Evo. There is a HUGE difference between the wear and corrosion on the internals of the engine between synthetic and dino.
John
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fiat22turbo  



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
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Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep in mind that like organic food, the meaning of synthetic when it comes to engine oil has been changed to include hydro-cracked oils.

Hydro-cracked oils are just natural oils that has been refined an extra step over other natural oils.

If you're going to step up to synthetic (and you should for motors you truly care about) then do some research on how your oil of choice is made before doing your shopping.
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jrrhdmust  



Joined: 19 Mar 2008
Posts: 180
Location: Middle Georgia

PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fiat22turbo wrote:
Keep in mind that like organic food, the meaning of synthetic when it comes to engine oil has been changed to include hydro-cracked oils.

Hydro-cracked oils are just natural oils that has been refined an extra step over other natural oils.

If you're going to step up to synthetic (and you should for motors you truly care about) then do some research on how your oil of choice is made before doing your shopping.


+1 Absolutely correct, this comes from a court case between Mobil 1 and Casterol (I think), where Casterol is marketing Hydro-cracked oil as sytnthetic. The judge said that the oil was altered from its original state, so they could market hydro-cracked oil as synthetic.

Also, beware of synthetic blends. A lot of time it is a hydrocracked blend, but also they can call it a blend if there is any synthetic in it.
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Browar  



Joined: 02 Jan 2003
Posts: 90
Location: Warsaw,Poland

PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What about 924 S in EU?

At the moment my car runs Mobil 1 5W50.
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