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Fifty50Plus · Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 4:10 am Post subject:

Dan, Smoothie's right about the tester - got one recently.

TB, on the odd chance that the belt lets go/slips/jumps on you, one or more valves WILL bend. As Dan said cheap insurance.
BTW, I have some '80 parts from a dismantle in my piles of junk (no head, turbo or fuel) in case you need anything.
Regards,
Chuck
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1979 924 NA race car H-Prod SCCA
1982 924 NA race car - Sold
1981 924 Turbo sold
1982 924 Turbo sold
1972 911 E race car - traded for Cayenne Diesel
1975 914 1.8 Building for H-Prod SCCA

tbramich · Joined: 02 Dec 2009 Posts: 25 Location: charlotte nc USA

thanks guys. i went shopping today and got the timing belt. couldn't find the pulley- had to be ordered. so i'm going to jump into it around 8pm and change it.

emoore924 when did you see the scoop? did you go look at the car? are you nearby? - if i get it running well i'm going to put that scope on and finish the gts look body off and paint it.

Fifty50Plus i could probably use all the fuel stuff as i know from looking it over that's where my headaches are going to be. so if you found some of that let me know & thanks for the offer.

btw anyone have rear disk brakes laying around?

ideola · Joined: 01 Oct 2004 Posts: 15550 Location: Spring Lake MI

Are you looking for a complete 5-lug conversion?
_________________
erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made

Fifty50Plus · Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 1:04 pm Post subject:

TB,
No, sorry, I've got no fuel stuff for 931s. Traded it with Ideola. Whatever you need he can help in that area (and any others!).
Chuck
_________________
1979 924 NA race car H-Prod SCCA
1982 924 NA race car - Sold
1981 924 Turbo sold
1982 924 Turbo sold
1972 911 E race car - traded for Cayenne Diesel
1975 914 1.8 Building for H-Prod SCCA

tbramich · Joined: 02 Dec 2009 Posts: 25 Location: charlotte nc USA

tbramich · Joined: 02 Dec 2009 Posts: 25 Location: charlotte nc USA

changed the timing belt and had it all back together in 1 hour and 45 minutes flat. not as bad as it looked. the bearing on the tension pulley felt ok no notching or noise. - will be getting one shortly.

decided to give it a shot of starting fluid to see if it would "pop off". it started right up and ran for about 10 seconds. did it again and same results - guess i got the belt back on right

previously i disconnected the filter to see if i had fuel, while it was running i didn't see any come out so i preceded onto trouble shooting the fuel system.

pulled the fuel filter and pump off. no power to the pump (relay wire mess needs to be figured out)

i blew out the lines to the tank, drained the gas and swapped the filter out.
While i had the fuel pump out i tested it, it had a lot of torque and shot out stale gas (stinks like turpentine). i cleaned it out and sprayed starting fluid to flush out the old gas. did this 3 times and it seemed to be better.
it is making some noise so i'm going to look into rebuilding it or replacing it shortly also.

plan for tomorrow is to reinstall it and run the pump to a can of gas and run the car out of that for about 15 minutes to get it all up to temperature. once i make sure everything is right i'll connect the tank, add fuel and change all fluids.

(i plan to bypass the relay until this test is done)

questions:
whats the 2 wires on the bottom of the tank for? fuel sending unit is in the trunk?? does it have a 2nd pump? if so will it run on just 1 pump?

Smoothie · Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 11:08 pm Post subject:

Yes, there's normally an in-tank pump. Should see terminals for the wires to connect to right at the tank outlet if one is present. Earlier 924s run without it, so it is possible to get it running without. -But if one is installed, but not working, of course it would inhibit fuel flow.
_________________
"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."

'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

ideola · Joined: 01 Oct 2004 Posts: 15550 Location: Spring Lake MI

Make sure the fuel filter is installed correctly. Many first time 931 owners install them backwards. The arrow indicating direction of flow should point from the front of the car to the back of the car, which may at first seem counter-intuitive, until you trace the fuel lines and see what is actually happening. If the filter is installed backward, the high pressure from the CIS pump will damage it. Furthermore, trying to reuse it after installing it backward is a bad idea, because once in proper orientation, the fuel flow will flush all the bad stuff toward the sensitive fuel distributor and other downstream components.
_________________
erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made

tbramich · Joined: 02 Dec 2009 Posts: 25 Location: charlotte nc USA

anyone know where is a good starting point on that fuel distributor adjustment? the guy i got the car from said he kept turning the adjustment to try and get it to work but to no avail.

just starting to button it back together now for the first long test run (by passing the gas tank)

never mind just saw the other post about it.

tbramich · Joined: 02 Dec 2009 Posts: 25 Location: charlotte nc USA

i now need an in-tank fuel pump. it wasn't working so i took apart to try to get it working now its really broken.

ideola · Joined: 01 Oct 2004 Posts: 15550 Location: Spring Lake MI

They're fragile and difficult to repair. PITA.
_________________
erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made

tbramich · Joined: 02 Dec 2009 Posts: 25 Location: charlotte nc USA

well i had it running from starting fluid but cant get it going on its own fuel supply. digging into it more the fuel distribution block provides fuel at the #2 & 4 cylinders but not the 1 & 3. i took the lines off the top and no pressure. removed pressure the adjuster allens from the block and the one had fuel come out with a bunch of black gook. the other had nothing. i pulled the filters out and cleaned them but still had no flow, i sprayed cleaner into all the holes and figured i'd let it sit over night.

got the brakes all bleed back out and the work well but my master cylinder is leaking into the car. plan to get a rebuild kit for that.

ideola · Joined: 01 Oct 2004 Posts: 15550 Location: Spring Lake MI

If you have brake fluid leaking into the car, it is almost certainly from the clutch master cylinder, and not the brake master. However, the brake master, clutch master, and clutch slave will probably all need to be changed. If one is bad the others are usually not far behind.
_________________
erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made

tbramich · Joined: 02 Dec 2009 Posts: 25 Location: charlotte nc USA

ideola · Joined: 01 Oct 2004 Posts: 15550 Location: Spring Lake MI

Well, I don't know how you're seeing it leak from the brake master into the cockpit, since the brake master is on the other side of the firewall, and has the booster between it and the cockpit. I suppose it's possible that the booster is full of brake fluid, and it's leaking from there, in which case, you'll need to replace both the master & the booster. I think it's much more likely that the leak is coming from your clutch master. It is mounted directly to the firewall just beneath the brake booster, and there is a bundle of wiring and vac lines above it, so it can be a bit difficult to see at first. You should have a blue-colored flex line coming from the brake master to the clutch master, if you follow that, you'll see where it connects to the top of the clutch master.
_________________
erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made