924Board.org

Mav666 · Joined: 16 May 2008 Posts: 47 Location: Newcastle, UK

I'm suspecting I need a new auto box, but I'll put the details up and see if there's any possibility its not totally dead.

Car was running great, then it developed a leak from one of the pipes going to the cooler, on the way into work it split and dumped a lot of fluid. Had it towed home, repaired the pipe, refilled with fluid, but then on the first drive after that I lost all forward gears, still had and still do have reverse.

The fluid is very dark but doesn't smell burnt. could be any number of things I know, just looking for opinions.

Cheers

joecitizennn · Joined: 12 Sep 2005 Posts: 2096 Location: no mans land

put a 5 speed in it. Cheap easy conversion and it improves the car.

Mav666 · Joined: 16 May 2008 Posts: 47 Location: Newcastle, UK

I've had a member of our owners club say that before, I thought it was a pig to do, how easy a conversion is it, and I guess I'll need a '44 box as opposed to the one in the 2.0l

joecitizennn · Joined: 12 Sep 2005 Posts: 2096 Location: no mans land

I would buy a 944 or a 924S with a blown engine, fire damage, minor collision, or whatever. If you are careful you can nab a 924S with a blown engine for 500 USD. Then you have all the little bits and parts you need. That will be WAY cheaper than getting all the parts seperate. You are going to need the tranny, shifter, shift linkage, clutch pedal, master cyl, slave syl, flywheel, pressure plate, disc, bearings and more. That would be a real pain in the donkey if you had to locate all the parts seperate. Get a parts car with a known working tranny and clutch but some other damage that makes it cheap. As my father used to day, "you will be farting through silk underwear then!"

Mav666 · Joined: 16 May 2008 Posts: 47 Location: Newcastle, UK

pmsl great quote

Certainly worth a thought.....

Mav666 · Joined: 16 May 2008 Posts: 47 Location: Newcastle, UK

Well I've drained the pan, cleaned the filter etc and refilled with fresh fluid.

Not good news for me though.

The car reverses perfectly, but there's no forward motion, it did move about 4 metres then nothing.

I'm curious, not being the up on the workings of an automatic is this normal? I'm guessing it just means its screwed but no harm in being optomistic.

Oh yeah and then after that disappointment, this bloody happens..

Osiris · Joined: 01 May 2003 Posts: 91 Location: Muncie, IN

Timely thread...

What year 944 will be the best to use for a transmission and interior parts donor? pre 85.5?
_________________
Keep a Chevy motor in a Chevy
Keep a Porsche motor in a Porsche
Keep a Ford motor in the dumpster

'87 924S 50K miles black/black

joecitizennn · Joined: 12 Sep 2005 Posts: 2096 Location: no mans land

any except the turbo i think . Anything with a 2.5 normally aspirated engine anyway.

you could really draw some envy if you dropped a 968 6 speed in it.

fiat22turbo · Joined: 18 Jan 2006 Posts: 4040 Location: Portland, OR

You may find that the valve body is stuck or sticking. Try removing and cleaning the valve body, then adjusting the clutch bands per the factory specs before you give up on it.

Obviously, the link between the engine and the input of the transmission isn't broken. The internal pump and torque converter are working. Teh only that isn't is that the valve body isn't routing the hydraulic fluid to the proper location to engage the appropriate clutch band.

Think of it as a partially failed shift linkage on a 5-speed. You can get some gears, but not all of them, etc.

Worst case, you make it worse and you are still without a car that moves properly and you'll need to rebuild, replace or convert.
_________________
Stefan
1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose)

Mav666 · Joined: 16 May 2008 Posts: 47 Location: Newcastle, UK

I've been lucky and managed to pick up another 'box, and better still I'll be able to sort out the knakcered doughnut as I picked up a replacement Tube as well with what looks to be a new doughnut in it.

So this week/weekend is going to be seeing a full replacement from the bell housing back over

Mav666 · Joined: 16 May 2008 Posts: 47 Location: Newcastle, UK

weather has been crap, but Iv'e managed to get the old gearbox out and I'm down to just needing to drop the rear axle so I can pull the TT.

Mines had the tick over rattle thanks to a disintigrated damper, the replacement TT has a near new one so its all good.

I'll post some pics of how bad the old damper is when I get the tube out.

BTW any ideas on getting badly rusted nuts off so I can take the down pipes off? Really don't want to have to strip the exhaust manifold area as well as all this work

ic932 · Joined: 11 Feb 2005 Posts: 1104 Location: UK

Yeah, they can be a royal pain in the arse. Soak everything in wd40 first. Those 13mm nuts are probably rusted to more like 12mm by now. I smack a 12mm socket on using a long extension bar (to reach the tricky ones). I use one of those halfords extention bars that allow the socket to be slightly offset. Anyway, after the initial breaking loose of the nut, the bolts will spin. The trick is to get a 13mm ring spanner on top of the bolt and wedge it against the block or whatever is solid enough. When you are sure that you have a good solid purchase, go for it. If you are lucky, the bolt will snap, then of course you will have to punch out the rusted nut that you smacked the 12mm socket onto.

Its not fun, it took me over an hour to to the 6 nuts'n'bolts from that S that your stuff came from! Plenty of swearing too

When I re-build, I always use copper nuts and the shortest possible bolts... just enough for the locking action of the nut to take effect.

fiat22turbo · Joined: 18 Jan 2006 Posts: 4040 Location: Portland, OR

WD-40 won't help with rust. It is only for displacing water (WD = Water Displacer, Formula #40)

In the states we use Kroil or PB-Blaster, if you can't find anything like that on your side of the pond, then a 50/50 mix of kerosene and diesel fuel works better to penetrate rust and break it up. Just be careful of course.

When you go to take the nuts loose, heat them up with a torch along with the surrounding area and carefully use an ice cube to cool them off quickly, the rapid expansion and contraction helps break up the rust. Too much heating or cooling can change the strength of the items so take it slowly.

I also find that gently applying some tension with a socket or wrench to the bolt/nut in the opposite direction helps some as well. Not much tension, mind you, just a little. Work it back and forth, etc.

Good luck!
_________________
Stefan
1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose)

Mav666 · Joined: 16 May 2008 Posts: 47 Location: Newcastle, UK

Cheers Dave, while you're here i should ask about splitting the TT from the engine as well, anything I should watch for?

Don't mind snapping these bolts off the down pips, they're just about knackered anyway and new ones will be pence to buy

bcblase · Joined: 23 Oct 2007 Posts: 574 Location: Winchester, VA

I had pretty good luck with a device called a "nut-splitter" They come in a couple of different sizes. It screws down onto the side of the nut with a hardened wedge shaped tooth that splits it off the bolt.

Brad
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1987 Porsche 924S - track toy
1986 Mercedes 190E 2.3-16v - autocross
2007 F-150 5.4L Lariat Supercrew - tow beast
1994 Volvo 850 Race Wagon - 24 Hours of Lemons Car
2001 BMW 325xi - daily driver