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OfficeLinebacker
Joined: 13 Oct 2008
Posts: 31
Location: Washington, DC area
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 Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 7:40 am Post subject: How do I tell which engine I have (early 1987 vs. late 1987) |
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Hi guys. Getting ready to do the cooler seal repair on my '87 924S and the extremely trusty and helpful Clark's Garage here:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/lube-02.htm
talks about the many different types of OPRVs. I checked over my Porsche and I can't find any numbers of the form '43 H 01920' or whatever.
And yes, I did search here and on Clark's.
There's the emissions info sticker and a plate with the VIN under the hood; there is no sticker in the doorwell, it could be because parts of the car have been painted.
Here's the VIN in case this helps:
WP0ZZZ922HN451740
TIA! |
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moorepower
Joined: 21 Dec 2006
Posts: 263
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina, USA
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| Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 8:26 am Post subject: |
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You'd probably need the engine number. It's on the block, near the firewall. This pic is of a 951, but the number is in the same place on a 924S.
_________________
Dan.
'88 924S-LE (Luddite Edition)
Manual steering, manual sunroof, manual windows, AC delete, cruise delete, M030 Konis, 25.5mm torsions, 26.8/20 sways |
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OfficeLinebacker
Joined: 13 Oct 2008
Posts: 31
Location: Washington, DC area
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| Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 9:14 am Post subject: |
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| moorepower wrote: | You'd probably need the engine number. It's on the block, near the firewall. This pic is of a 951, but the number is in the same place on a 924S.
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Thanks so much. I did go back out and poke around and looked in what I think was that exact place. However, I did not see anything. Does the plate face the firewall? Does it face to the side, from under the headers?
In other news, I found the sticker that's usually in the doorjamb. It says the car was manufactured in 06/86. So that makes it an old one. But I'd still like to know the actual engine number.
EDIT: Isn't this the kind of thing that should be a sticky, or more easily found? |
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gohim
Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 4459
Location: Rialto, CA
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| Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 4:08 pm Post subject: |
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The engine serial number was moved after 1987 model year. Up through 1987, the engine number was located on a flat spot at the rear top of the engine block below where the flywheel sensors connect to the wiring harness.
1988 and later engines, the serial number is found on the right side of the engine block.
The most reliable way to figure out which OPRV you have is to pull it out and look. Your engine is over 20 years old, and there is no way to know what previous owners or mechanics have done to it, or what parts have been changed. Don't make any plans or order any parts until you look for yourself. |
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OfficeLinebacker
Joined: 13 Oct 2008
Posts: 31
Location: Washington, DC area
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| Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 11:28 pm Post subject: |
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| Fair dinkum. Well after F1 Free practice and TdF coverage are done I have an errand to run, then it's time to attack the job! |
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Rasta Monsta
Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW
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| Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 11:41 pm Post subject: |
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Good luck, man, and way to jump in there!
_________________
Toofah King Bad
- WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
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OfficeLinebacker
Joined: 13 Oct 2008
Posts: 31
Location: Washington, DC area
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| Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 6:14 am Post subject: |
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| Rasta Monsta wrote: | | Good luck, man, and way to jump in there! |
Thanks, and dammit if I don't feel like I was a bit misleading, cos after the errand I ended up hanging out with my mom for a very relaxed lunch, and I'm now working on little things (like following up with informational emails and making calls) for clients and such.
To that end, if anyone knows of anyone that has expertise on rebuilding multiple carb setups, specifically multiple Webers on an Aston Marting, in the Washington DC area, shoot me a PM! |
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jrrhdmust
Joined: 19 Mar 2008
Posts: 180
Location: Middle Georgia
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 12:27 am Post subject: |
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Someone correct me if I am wrong, but trying to read the number at the back left of my engine was impossible.
So if you pull the front plastic belt cover, you can see whether or not you have the tensioner. If you have the spring tensioner it is the latter 87 engine, if no tensioner it is the early 87 engine.
_________________
67 Mercury Cougar XR7 under Restoration
71 VW Superbeetle Completed Resto 11/07
73 Mustang Mach 1 10 Year old restoration |
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gohim
Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 4459
Location: Rialto, CA
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 12:46 am Post subject: |
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Having the spring tensioner does not change anything. You still need the P9201 tension guage to check the belt tension whether you have the belt tensioner or not.
If you've never seen the spring belt tensioner, it has a threaded bolt for changing the calibrated belt tension, without any thread lock or warning marker. Turning the nut will throw off the factory set calibration, and Porsche says they're Factory Set, and not to be changed. So if someone who doesn't know turned the nut in the past 20+ plus years since the car was built, or the spring changed tension (highly likely) the tensioner will not tension to the correctly.
Which is why you need to check the belt tension, whether your engine has the tensioner or not. |
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OfficeLinebacker
Joined: 13 Oct 2008
Posts: 31
Location: Washington, DC area
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 12:52 am Post subject: |
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| I've heard success stories over at the clark's garage forums where using the 90 degree rule worked quite well |
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John_AZ
Joined: 25 Jun 2008
Posts: 130
Location: Arizona ~Carefree Highway~
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 4:30 am Post subject: |
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| OfficeLinebacker wrote: | | Rasta Monsta wrote: | | Good luck, man, and way to jump in there! |
Thanks, and dammit if I don't feel like I was a bit misleading, cos after the errand I ended up hanging out with my mom for a very relaxed lunch, and I'm now working on little things (like following up with informational emails and making calls) for clients and such.
To that end, if anyone knows of anyone that has expertise on rebuilding multiple carb setups, specifically multiple Webers on an Aston Marting, in the Washington DC area, shoot me a PM! |
You confuse me OfficeLinebacker,
Your posts go from expertise to gambling on tension.
gohim has more experience than most on this forum and you doubt his advice.
Our cars are interference engines, meaning the valves will hit the pistons if the belt tension causes failure. The 90 degree twist method may work for some very trained 944 mechanics who do it frequently but you sound like this is your first time doing a tension.
If your 90 degree twist method is too tight-and how would you know- the belt may snap or the WP bearing may fail and both will cause the valves to hit the pistons.
If your 90 degree twist method it too loose, the belt may slip on the WP pully or the cam gear or the crank belt gear will eat the belt teeth and the belt will fail causing the valves to hit the pistons.
I cannot compare belt tension to balancing multiple webers, but when you do balance the weber you use a correct guage I am sure. I had 2 webers on my 914.
Do more research on belt tension. Even Clarks Garage says it is dangerous in the last sentence to do a 90 degree twist.
John_AZ
1988 924S = 1987 924s |
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OfficeLinebacker
Joined: 13 Oct 2008
Posts: 31
Location: Washington, DC area
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 8:57 am Post subject: |
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I have no horse in this race. I've given up on my 924S. Just mentioning some success stories I read on CG.
I don't doubt gohim's advice. I have the old kind without the built in tensioner. |
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jrrhdmust
Joined: 19 Mar 2008
Posts: 180
Location: Middle Georgia
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| Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 11:16 pm Post subject: |
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| gohim wrote: | Having the spring tensioner does not change anything. You still need the P9201 tension guage to check the belt tension whether you have the belt tensioner or not.
If you've never seen the spring belt tensioner, it has a threaded bolt for changing the calibrated belt tension, without any thread lock or warning marker. Turning the nut will throw off the factory set calibration, and Porsche says they're Factory Set, and not to be changed. So if someone who doesn't know turned the nut in the past 20+ plus years since the car was built, or the spring changed tension (highly likely) the tensioner will not tension to the correctly.
Which is why you need to check the belt tension, whether your engine has the tensioner or not. |
GoHim - I was not suggesting that he just use the spring tensioner to set the tension. The post I was responding to was how do you tell if you have an early 87 or late 87.
As always your advice is priceless, an I personally do not question it.
_________________
67 Mercury Cougar XR7 under Restoration
71 VW Superbeetle Completed Resto 11/07
73 Mustang Mach 1 10 Year old restoration |
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gohim
Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 4459
Location: Rialto, CA
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| Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 3:06 am Post subject: |
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I understood what you were trying to say, no worries. I was just trying to make the situation clear for the OP.
Unfortunately he didn't read, was not prepared, and had no understanding of what he was getting into, when he took his car apart, and now it's become just another sad, abandoned, parts car. |
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OfficeLinebacker
Joined: 13 Oct 2008
Posts: 31
Location: Washington, DC area
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| Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 1:24 pm Post subject: |
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| gohim wrote: | I understood what you were trying to say, no worries. I was just trying to make the situation clear for the OP.
Unfortunately he didn't read, was not prepared, and had no understanding of what he was getting into, when he took his car apart, and now it's become just another sad, abandoned, parts car. |
I disagree with the former, but agree with the latter. |
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