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Boostsideways  



Joined: 11 Feb 2009
Posts: 100
Location: CT, Southbury

PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like the finest in GM engineering I've seen yet.. Whats that got, a big block in it? Oh wait.. OBVIOUSLY. hahahaha

and p.s. I just bought a brand new ignition coil.. Didn't even really need it both are new and good lol, but i did it jus' encase... still no spark =/
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Someone needs a lesson in troubleshooting 101. Your trial-and-error parts replacement method is a guaranteed path to frustration and wallet-weight-loss. I strongly urge you to get a copy of Haynes and rigorously follow the ignition troubleshooting process outlined there.
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Boostsideways  



Joined: 11 Feb 2009
Posts: 100
Location: CT, Southbury

PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey idea, good to see you around. I have been man, i have the manual! Jus' when it comes to electronics i'm not very smart (obviously) i've been doin' alotta these tests by myself an' i'm jus' a idiot with a really bad manual. =/ Thats why i call on the board silly =p
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, don't mean to bust your chops...at least not too hard...

Do you have a good multimeter? If not, now's the time to get one.

I would suggest that you start from the beginning, forget about all of the tests you've already done and forget about all of the parts you've already bought or replaced. ASSUME NOTHING. Read through the troubleshooting procedure in Haynes. Then get a piece of paper, draw a table, and write each of the tests down, with a space afterward for a checkmark, and a place to write comments or notes. Before you start testing, make sure you have all of the tools to do ALL of the tests (like a good spark tester, a good multi-meter, a spark plug gap tool, etc. etc.).

Once you are confident with your test plan, start at the beginning. Even if you think you've already done the test, do it again, and write down the results. Good diagnostics is all about being thorough, and not making any assumptions. It also requires not just identifying the problem, but eliminating things that are NOT part of the problem. Knowing with certainty that the problem doesn't exist at Point A, B, or C is just as important as eventually figuring out that it's at Point X.

You don't have to be "smart" or knowledgeable about electrics. That's a cop out. You can learn and get smarter by being systematic and methodical. If you don't understand something in Haynes, say so...that's where this forum can be a big help.
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Boostsideways  



Joined: 11 Feb 2009
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Location: CT, Southbury

PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ya, I am learning. And i do have all that stuff.. Slowly but surely I guess, thanks idea.
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My car= Porsche 924 turbo, 1982.
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Scorpio  



Joined: 05 Jul 2007
Posts: 1957
Location: Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive found that once youve studied and understod the electrical part of haynes..ie the diagrams..it opens a whole new world to eletrical troubleshooting...

study it...will take a few days of solid study but will make everything 100million times easier
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rkn  



Joined: 01 Apr 2007
Posts: 176
Location: Copenhagen

PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are the cross-refs:

Vaughan's Electrical Diagnosis How-To:
http://www.924.org/techsection/elect_diag.htm

Smoothie's How To Read 924 Wiring Diagrams:
http://924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=24683&sid=8d743b110faf1e1729a714f09eaa5dea

Leadfoot's How to diagnose electrical problems part one:
http://924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=19320&sid=8d743b110faf1e1729a714f09eaa5dea

Really helpful stuff for people like us who still don't get what electrons are all about and what they're doing in our 924.
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Boostsideways  



Joined: 11 Feb 2009
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Location: CT, Southbury

PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 11:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys.. I THINK i might have narrowed it back down to my either A: starter or B: ignition switch/neutral safety switch(if i even have one) anyone know how to actually test that? it says here run a jumper wire from the power in to the power out.. but shows no pictures an' tells me not where it is.. It's the thing i put my key into right? So i have to take off my steering column to do this?
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My car= Porsche 924 turbo, 1982.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's one of the times that replacement may be easier than doing the diagnostic The ignition switch is a very common known failure point on these cars. The part is only $5 from AutoHausAz.com. It takes about 20-30 minutes to replace, and I can pretty much guarantee you, even if your ignition switch isn't the fault, it's on its way out. I have yet to see an uncracked ignition switch in any of the 7 or 8 cars I've pulled them from (and I've replaced them in all four of my runners).

You have to pull the steering wheel (remove horn pad and undo the 24mm nut); the steering column switch assemblies (3 or 4 flat head screws depending on model, plus two or three electrical harness connections); the ignition switch plastic surround (2 tiny phillips head screws access from the bottom); a plastic bushing on the end of the steering shaft; an allen key bolt that holds the ignition switch housing onto the steering column (accessed from underneath).

Once this is done, the ignition switch housing pulls straight off, you disconnect the ignition switch harness, and there is a single phillips head machine screw that holds the white plastic switch in place.

For reinstallation, I've found that unscrewing the three phillips head screws that hold the Lambda computer in place (the silver box directly under the steering column under the dash) provides easier access for plugging the ignition switch harness back in.

It sounds complicated and like a lot of steps, but it's all pretty logical once you start in, and I've done this job start to finish including cleanup in 20 minutes.
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Boostsideways  



Joined: 11 Feb 2009
Posts: 100
Location: CT, Southbury

PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2009 2:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks idea, always on the ball! I'ma go back down an' try it again later tonight.. I re-went through checking all my grounds makin sure they were clean and tried to test my starter with a voltmeter (that was.. inconclusive.. ) and tested my alt..also cleaned up my fuse box an all the connections, ditc harness everything.. all spic an span.. Ima pop back down there either in a couple hours or later tonight.. Ordering the ignition switch as we speak. I really hope this works, even if it is the starter too i'd still be happy as long as it'd just be that =p But ya i have yet to replace that part so ima get on that first. Thanks again!
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My car= Porsche 924 turbo, 1982.
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