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Rear shoes adjust
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flyguy  



Joined: 31 Oct 2008
Posts: 75
Location: Hamilton, Ont

PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 3:26 pm    Post subject: Rear shoes adjust Reply with quote

Searched on here for my answer, but only answe rI found was for a 1980 NA 924.

How do you adjust the rear brake shoes on a 1977 NA 924?

JUst had new MC put in and system bled. Brakes now work worse than before (foot to floor, still only giving %60 braking power AND E-brake now doesn't seem to hold)

Seems like the rear brakes need to be tightened but haven't found anything on it yet, any help would be appreciated!
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 4448
Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is two star adjusters in the bottom of the backing plate.
Probably find a rubber plug covering the access hole.

I find the easiest method is to have the rear end up on stands, out of gear with handbrake off. Adjust each star evenly until the wheel starts to bind then back off a little.
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flyguy  



Joined: 31 Oct 2008
Posts: 75
Location: Hamilton, Ont

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 3:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you elaborate on this procedure abit more in detail, if you can?

From the way it wounds, i just take the wheel off, and using the inspection holes move the shoes closer in, no?
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 1941
Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 5:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's been answered in your other thread on this topic.
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datatrain  



Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 441
Location: Osoyoos, British Columbia

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 5:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I didn't see your other thread.

On the back of the brake plate are 2 slotted holes. You get to them from under the car. Leave the wheels on. Use a screwdriver to turn the star wheel you'll find in the hole. One way tightens the other loosens. There is one star for each shoe. Adjust them both as described above. Spin the wheel as you turn the star. Same for the other back wheel.

That's all.

DAve
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'78 924 NA with Collector plate
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Mint '92 318i BMW
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flyguy  



Joined: 31 Oct 2008
Posts: 75
Location: Hamilton, Ont

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damn. The adjusters are ceased :S

Now gotta figure out what to do.
I still get better brake pressure after i pump it a few times, and its not air or water. The rear drums/shows SHOULD be replaced especially if ceased.

So here is my dilemma. Should I get new drum/shoes OR switch to the brake caliper and pad conversion?

Thoughts? Answers? Sales? References?
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perhaps you should pull the drum and inspect the adjusters before ceasing your inquiry. You can probably knock them loose, clean and lightly lube them, and get them back into service.
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flyguy  



Joined: 31 Oct 2008
Posts: 75
Location: Hamilton, Ont

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My issue though is that if I can't, or if one of the parts becomes broken or unusable when I open them up i'd rather have everything already at hand, as this is my daily vehicle.

Also, since this is a long term restoration project, maybe replacing the rear brakes would be a better long term idea.
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tuurbo  



Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 1446
Location: East Windsor, New Jersey

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The drum shoes are pretty cheap. I use the 4 bolt drum/disc combination and it's fine for street driving. Cheap to maintain - I'd go with the 5 bolt conversion if you want to seriously upgrade the car to autocross or DE day performance requirements. Else, just use the stock setup.
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Rich H  



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Posts: 2665
Location: Preston, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The mechanism is very simple.

The drums/shoes can be assessed through the outermost holes, you can see the thickness of the drum and shoe material there.

If it all looks OK then as a minimum get a fitting kit, they are always manky as hell. Shoes are cheap too. If the adjusters are stuck then put a bolt in and tighten it up. The adjuster will pop out - probably.

Or you can get the whole lot, backing plates, cylinders, shoes, fittings and new adjusters then it'll out live you
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 8:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And if you drive hard, the frequent adjustments will outlive your patience.
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Rich H  



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Posts: 2665
Location: Preston, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 8:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is true...
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1980 Porsche 924 S2 DITC Turbo - Original spec
1978 Homo-Sapiens - Tired spec
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tuurbo  



Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 1446
Location: East Windsor, New Jersey

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
And if you drive hard, the frequent adjustments will outlive your patience.


For my purposes I've defined this as a couple of trips where you experience fade - probably five or so hard brake episodes each trip will do it. In my case such trips have meant readjustment.
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flyguy  



Joined: 31 Oct 2008
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Location: Hamilton, Ont

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rich H wrote:
The mechanism is very simple.

The drums/shoes can be assessed through the outermost holes, you can see the thickness of the drum and shoe material there.

If it all looks OK then as a minimum get a fitting kit, they are always manky as hell. Shoes are cheap too. If the adjusters are stuck then put a bolt in and tighten it up. The adjuster will pop out - probably.

Or you can get the whole lot, backing plates, cylinders, shoes, fittings and new adjusters then it'll out live you


What do you mean by this process? there is still enough meat on the shoes, and maybe just to add some detail, i get good braking after i pump it about 5 times.
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datatrain  



Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 441
Location: Osoyoos, British Columbia

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 2:02 pm    Post subject: Bleed 'em Reply with quote

Sound as though you need to do a serious brake bleeding. Pumping can be indicative of air in the lines. You'll need someone on the pedal to pump. Open the bleed valve and let 'er go. Close and pump and do it again a couple more times. Be sure to top up the Master cylinder after a couple of times. I'd expect you'll see a big improvement.
I don't think it matters if you folllow the sequence. Just get the air out.
Oh, and be sure to use fresh brake fluid to top the master cylinder. Don't shake the can and keep it off the paint.

DAve
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'78 924 NA with Collector plate
33 year old car, with me for 21 yrs
Mint '92 318i BMW
Near mint '98 Buick LeSabre
VE7HFR
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