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Cutting out under boost

 
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Rob the plumber  



Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 122
Location: Utica, Michigan

PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 8:27 am    Post subject: Cutting out under boost Reply with quote

Hi,

I am a new owner of a 1981 931. The car seems to run perfectly, except under full boost the car cuts out. I am guessing that the wastegate may not be operating properly, and the engine is "shutting off" somehow.
I have no idea how this is accomplished on a Porsche. I know other vehicles will shut down in overboost conditions when the MAP sensor goes over 5.0 volts, or mass air sensor voltage gets pegged.

I have no boost gauge yet, so I don't know at what psi this is happening. It just cuts out when the boost comes on hard.

Thanks,
Rob
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you look at the charge tube which passes over the valve cover, you will see see the overboost switch threaded into it on the side facing forward, and a brown wire connected to the switch with a spade connector. Check the connector for tightness, and the wire for breaks.

The switch is a simple open/closed that opens when boost exceeds 20 (?) PSI and kills the fuel pump. Is the car insanely, you can't really believe it fast? If so, your wastegate diaphragm is ruptured and the car should be parked until the wastegate is removed/refeshed. You can also check the turbo shaft while you have the down pipe off.

Welcome! Your plumbing skills will come in handy when it comes time to R&R the turbocharger.




rasta
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Rob the plumber  



Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 122
Location: Utica, Michigan

PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advise. I guess I should install a boost gauge to figure out if the boost switch is acting up, or if the wastegate is stuck shut. I crawled under the car today and noticed that the turbo is externally gated. It looks like a boost reference line attached by a banjo fitting is how it gets it's signal.
I checked the line going to the wastegate with the car running for vacuum leaks, and I found none.
The boost comes on a lot harder than I think 10 psi of non-intercooled boost should, so my guess is that the wastegate needs attention. Is rebuilding a wastegate a hard job? It looks like it comes off easy enough.....


Thanks in advance!
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy, new hardware from Porsche (studs, nuts, gaskets), and a diaphragm from Pelican (or Lindsey Racing if you want to get fancy). Heat will be required to remove the studs. Also, the switch can be bench tested with compressed air and continuity tester.

BTW, the wastegate is a 930 part. . .sometimes makes searching for innards easier.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a handy wastegate rebuild list I pirated from another post here somewhere. I used this to get all the bits from EBS:
Quote:
Wastegate Rebuild
1. Turbo to exhaust manifold and J-tube to manifold use the same metal O-ring: 993.111.195.00 about $17 apiece at the dealership.
2. Metal O-ring that seals the turbo to the exhaust pipe: 944.111.205.02.
3. Square metal gasket used on both sides of the wastegate: 930.123.194.06 about $21 at the dealership.
4. If you need the flat gasket, J-tube to manifold: 931.111.191.10 about $12 at the dealership.
5. If you need the flat gasket, turbo to exhaust pipe:931.111.192.04 about $33 at the dealership.
6. PET says the sealing ring used to join the pipe to the cat converter is 930.123.134.02. I don't have the converter, so I can't confirm this is a good or current number.
7. The studs on the wastegate are:
outlet side to cat converter 8x25mm
inlet from J-tube 8x32mm
8. I also recommend using copper nuts.


{EDIT} edited out the bit about a sale on til the end of the month...this was lifted from an OLD post and copied into a word doc for future reference.
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Last edited by ideola on Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:48 am; edited 1 time in total
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tuurbo  



Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 1446
Location: East Windsor, New Jersey

PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had wastegates where the spring has DUG into the sides of the aluminum and made for wonky sidewalls, with grooves in them, that 'can' cause the spring to stick. The inner aluminum can be fixed up if needed...you'll see when you crack it open.
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Rob the plumber  



Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 122
Location: Utica, Michigan

PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I blew compressed air and a little WD-40 into the wastegate hose to try to free it up. The wastegate seems to be holding air, so maybe it is just stuck.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 12:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't use a petroleum product in the wg diaphragm area. If yours has a vent line attached to the top, and you plan on using it only as a vent in the future, you could try sending a little silicone based lube down that line. (Petroleum isn't good for rubber, but silicone is a good preservative for it, but silicone is very bad for o2 sensors and catalytic converters. -So silicone on the upper surface of the rubber diaphragm will help prolong its' life and keep it out of both the intake and exhaust tracts.)

Another possible cause for your symptoms would be a clog/blockage in the wg control line - though I've never heard of this happening.
One more possibility would be if there's a wg control valve installed in the control line, and it's closed too much. (This would be something added aftermarket by a previous owner. If present, it could be in the engine compartment or under the dash - just follow the line and see if one is there.)


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Rob the plumber  



Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 122
Location: Utica, Michigan

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks again for the help. I installed a boost gauge today, and it is hitting over 15psi when it cuts out. Not good. So at this point I can assume that the wastegate is not opening.

Thanks!
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, stuck closed, or torn diaphragm maybe?
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924guy  



Joined: 29 Dec 2003
Posts: 2088
Location: Port St. Lucie, FL

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 11:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rob the plumber wrote:
Thanks again for the help. I installed a boost gauge today, and it is hitting over 15psi when it cuts out. Not good. So at this point I can assume that the wastegate is not opening.

Thanks!



irrc, mine didn't cut out until 21 psi, and by the time it works itll allow another 4 or 5 psi to build (takes a second to burn the remaining fuel.)

might want to check it just in case...

From haynes: Boost pressure control switch - checking

1 Unplug the wire and remove the boost pressure control switch from the upper pressure duct.

2 Carefully clamp the boost pressure control switch in the jaws of a vise with jaw protectors installed.

3 Connect a 'buzz box' audible circuit tester, or a 12v bulb connected to two lengths of electrical cable (Fig. 4.25), between the switch housing and the connecting terminal. The buzzer should sound, or the light should come on.

4 Take a rubber valve stem (the type used for tubeless tires) and remove the valve core. Slide the rubber end over the threads of the switch.

5 Connect an air hose to the proper hole on the metal end of the pressure gauge and press it on to the threaded end of the valve stem.

6 Slowly build pressure up until the reading is approximately 21 psi (1.5 bar). The buzzer should stop sounding,or the light should go off.

7 Allow the pressure to drop slowly until the buzzer begins to sound, or the light comes on, again. The pressure should be 15.6 to 20 psi (1.1 to 1.4 bar).

8 if the boost pressure control switch fails either of these tests, it must be replaced.

You really dont want to go more than 17psi to be safe, thats still 10 psi higher than factory spec, I ran mine at 17 for a few years with no problem. then again, i also rebuilding my 931 from the ground up and am on my third turbo in 8 years, so you might be wise to ignore this post..
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Rob the plumber  



Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 122
Location: Utica, Michigan

PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is definitely stuck closed. I applied compressed air to the line yesterday at work, and I heard it pop open. Unfortunately it does not open during normal use.
Is there a place that I might order a rebuild kit online? I generally work almost 2 shifts a day and have very little time to chase parts in person.

Thanks!
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Rob the plumber  



Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 122
Location: Utica, Michigan

PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 4:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FIXED

The signal line to the wastegate was clogged. The banjo fitting at the wastegate had a check valve in it that was stuck shut.

Now the boost sits at 6 psi, and the car is pretty damn slow. I think I have a manual boost controller lying around the garage though.
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