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Opinions on diagnosis: fuel accumulator, WUR or other
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Maybe924  



Joined: 14 Aug 2007
Posts: 412
Location: New London, CT

PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 5:28 am    Post subject: Opinions on diagnosis: fuel accumulator, WUR or other Reply with quote

Hello my 924 bretheren,
Over the past few months I have been sorting various running issues plaguing my 931.

1. Tracked down and fixed vacuum leak causing erratic performance, boost bleed off, hesitation during no boost/boost transition and poor idle.
Solution: Replaced lower charge tube (she was leaking between this and the intercooler.)

2. Intermittent misfiring under load and an occasional backfire.
Solution: Replaced distributor, rotor, airfilter, new spark plugs and wires.
(carbon buildup on both rotor and dizzy, hole in one of the spark plug wires, plugs and filter just because.)

3. Severe hesistation under load, no power above 2000 rpm and a lean running condition.
Solution: Replaced fuel pump. (Pump stopped making any noise, it use to sing a bit. I was surprised the car ran at all, it idled just fine even with the dead pump.)

I'm batting 3 for 3 as far as diagnosis goes but I've got one more thing to sort before she'll be running perfect.

The car hard starts both cold or hot. Essentially the car needs to turn over 3 or 4 times before it catches. Even if I start it and immediately shut it down, then start it again... it always takes 3-4 turns. It used to start quicker in 1 turn usually. I've ruled out spark as an issue and low compression seems unlikely since the car runs very well besides this.

With the help of the search button the mostly likely culprits are:

1. Fuel Accumulator
2. WUR
3. Pressure Control Valve

I'm leaning towards the accumulator but its a pricey guess especially after the recent install of the new fuel pump.

Any thoughts?
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1985 911 Targa Carrera (Sold)
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 5:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine did the same before/after the addition of the intercooler. It used to start with a "bump" of the starter, now you have to crank it for 2-3 secs hot or cold. Could be due to intake restriction created between throtle body and afm, don't know.
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Buwani 931  



Joined: 31 May 2004
Posts: 308
Location: Napa California

PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 3:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The accumulator is easy to check. Take the little screw out the bottom, run pump, look for leakage. A bad accumulator would effect hot starting much more than cold, does not sound like your problem.
Timing correct?

Shawn
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When the underhood temperature is more than 95 degrees, the thermotime switch does not activate the cold start valve. This is often the cause of delayed starting in the summer as cranking has to occur long enough to move the plate in the metering unit. Adding an I/C adds length and volume to the intake tract, so yes an I/C can make it worse.
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Maybe924  



Joined: 14 Aug 2007
Posts: 412
Location: New London, CT

PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I very much appreciate the replies.

The confusing part about this is its the same with both cold and hot starts. No difference... 4 turns before she fires. The only time it'll turn quicker is if I immediately restart after shutdown. Even then its still 2 turns. She used to start in 1 turn, this was even after I installed the CGT intercooler. The hardstarting problem is a recent thing. In fact, I stalled it really badly one day, foot was firm on the brake and I let out the clutch thinking it was in neutral, the car shuttered badly and stalled. Ever since that incident I've had a hard start problem. That was the defining moment.

I'll give the accumulator the test and go from there. So I loosen the screw after its be running? Or do I loosen the screw then start it?
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loosen the screw at any time. There's a rubber bladder inside the accumulator - if it's torn fuel will drip out when you loosen the screw. That'd indicate it's time for a new accumulator.

You could also try turning on just the ignition a few times before activating the starter. This'll prime the fuel system. See if it starts quicker after doing this..
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Maybe924  



Joined: 14 Aug 2007
Posts: 412
Location: New London, CT

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update:
I checked the accumulator this evening. No gas leaked out of the screw hole, so looks like its still good. Also, checked the lines to fuel pump and accumulator, all had no leaks.

A curious thing is that the fuel pump does not run when the key is in the on position and the car is not started. I thought it used to run for a few seconds to pressurize the system???

It does however run when the car is started.

Could this point to a voltage issue? Maybe a bad ground somewhere?
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you haven't tested your pressures, you might want to do that. You may also want to look at your primary pressure regulator. . .failure there can bleed pressure out of the system making starting take longer.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe924 wrote:
A curious thing is that the fuel pump does not run when the key is in the on position and the car is not started. I thought it used to run for a few seconds to pressurize the system???

Yes, I think we have a clue here. The pumps should run for a couple seconds with just the ignition switched on. Possibly a fuel pump relay problem??...Do you have a spare to swap in?
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Buwani 931  



Joined: 31 May 2004
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Location: Napa California

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe924 wrote:
Update:
I checked the accumulator this evening. No gas leaked out of the screw hole, so looks like its still good. Also, checked the lines to fuel pump and accumulator, all had no leaks.

A curious thing is that the fuel pump does not run when the key is in the on position and the car is not started. I thought it used to run for a few seconds to pressurize the system???

It does however run when the car is started.

Could this point to a voltage issue? Maybe a bad ground somewhere?


Sounds like you found the problem, it does need to prime up when you turn the key to on. Not sure what would cause the pump to run only after starting but not when first turned on, but I bet someone will. Does the oil, battery light and low speed fan come on when you first turn it to on?

Shawn

Edit I type slower than a dog
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Maybe924  



Joined: 14 Aug 2007
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Location: New London, CT

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fuel pump relay is new, just got it a couple of weeks ago. It was in fact the cause of the no-start condition I had at the time. I feel like I may have shorted something out when I stalled the car... it was a violent stall and as I said, it has hard started ever since. I know it doesn't make a whole lotta sense but it was the defining moment for this particular problem.

I'm also feeling like its running a little bit lean. Not sure if this is possible to "feel" but I get the sense through feel and sound that its lean. It has a distinct (to the trained 931 owner's ear) sound when its running perfect and its not sounding this way. When its going perfect its kinda more throaty and deeper than it currently sounds. The best way to describe its current running condition is that its running the way it would on a 95 degree day... full power just ain't there and spinning up the rpms sounds a bit shrill.

I guess the next step is a control pressure test but I'm still baffled on the lack of pre-ignition priming.
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Maybe924  



Joined: 14 Aug 2007
Posts: 412
Location: New London, CT

PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update:

I jumpered the fuel pump from plug 87 to 30 and the pump ran with the ignition in the on position and the car started immediately. I guess I got a bum replacement relay.

Or... it still may be the ground
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe924 wrote:
A curious thing is that the fuel pump does not run when the key is in the on position and the car is not started.


That is how the relay is designed. . .it isn't faulty.
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Maybe924  



Joined: 14 Aug 2007
Posts: 412
Location: New London, CT

PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
Maybe924 wrote:
A curious thing is that the fuel pump does not run when the key is in the on position and the car is not started.


That is how the relay is designed. . .it isn't faulty.


I'm 100% sure I've heard the fuel pump run before when I put the key in the on position. Its pressurizes the system so it starts quickly. It primes it for a few seconds then stops until you turn the key to start. If you aren't starting right away you might be having the same issue.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm...on my NA, the pump always primes when the key is put to the on position (before cranking). On the 931, it never does. Maybe you had an incorrect (NA) relay in the 931 previously?

Also, NONE of my cars fire on the first turnover of the motor. They ALL take about 2-4 revolutions to fire up when cold. When warm, it's a different story, usually fire right up. Don't know what that means, but consider it anecdotal.
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