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Head gasket/head rebuild?

 
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blackhat  



Joined: 23 Apr 2008
Posts: 66
Location: Junction City, Kansas

PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 2:05 pm    Post subject: Head gasket/head rebuild? Reply with quote

Hey all,

You've probably seen me asking tons of questions about the head gasket and heads. This will be my first major repair job on a vehicle so I'm trying to soak in all the info I can before I undertake it.

My question to you all is, since the head is going to be off and I don't know when the last rebuild was, should I do a valve train rebuild?

I'm not entirely sure what all it entails. Is this something where if I bought the new springs, valve guides, and valves, I could just throw them in? I've heard talk about having to grind the valves down to match a specific height. Is this something more than a micrometer and a Dremel? Is this something a machine shop could do for cheap?

I figured I could look into it since the head will be off and the valves will be out for the valve seals.

Any thoughts and advice would be great!
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't paid for a "carry-in" valve job in a while, but last time I did it was quite cheap at the machine shop. Probably not a job you want to cut your teeth on without supervision!
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  • WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
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Buwani 931  



Joined: 31 May 2004
Posts: 308
Location: Napa California

PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The key is finding a good machine shop. They will be able to tell the condition of the springs , guides , straigtness ect. Grinding or lapping the valves and seats is common and not expensive. No need replacing parts that still have life.
Ask around, find a shop that does good honest work and you are set.

Shawn
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That's thirty minutes away. I'll be there in ten.
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Martijnus  



Joined: 29 Dec 2006
Posts: 2019
Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if the valves aren't bent, they can be cleaned. If they have some minor damage on the sealing surface, they can be machined, making the seal like new.

If that should occur, the valve seats (which are the most common 'repair') should be taken care of. That just involves cutting the seats, which causes the valve to sit deeper in the head, so the valve stem needs to be shortened too.

The guides could be worn out, those are hard to get over here, but maybe in the US it's not a problem. Won't take much time, so costs less

If the valve seats are damaged too much to cut them, they need to be replaced. The material costs are low on that.

After all that work has been done, the head gets flattened (how do you call that?) so that the gasket won't leak.

Most of the costs is in labor, material isn't that much.

Just find a rebuilding shop which takes a look at the head and can specify what needs to be done. In most cases, all mentioned above is NOT necessary. If the valves seal the ports well (vacuum test) there is no need to clean the valves, cut the seats and so on...

Luckily it's an 8valve head... 16v costs way more
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To be turbo'ed in a while.
Killed her at the Nurburgring, Porscheless at the moment
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blackhat  



Joined: 23 Apr 2008
Posts: 66
Location: Junction City, Kansas

PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome! Thanks for the advice! I'll be calling the machine shops today and some various auto guys to see if they would suggest one.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 11:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Martijnus wrote:
After all that work has been done, the head gets flattened (how do you call that?) so that the gasket won't leak.

We call it skim-cutting or cleaning the head deck. Usually no more than .001" or so provided the head isn't warped.

blackhat, as you're looking around for a local machinist, I would urge you to find a shop that has experience specifically with aluminum heads. If you have a top notch race shop in the area, that would do, provided they have experience with later style small blocks, turbos, imports, or aluminum components. I use a local shop called Holbert Racing that is top notch...I pay maybe 10% premium for their services, but it's worth it because they know their stuff, and I can drop in, ask questions, and chat pretty much whenever I want, which can be invaluable.

Alternatively, you can look for a shop that specializes in VW's or Audi's of the same era. Don't tell 'em it's for a Porsche until they've given you a firm quote...tell 'em you have a VW head you want to have reconditioned.

If you *really* want to go all out, you can send your head to European Motorworks in Cali. They specialize in our cars, and have specific builds for the 924. This is where I'll be sending my head in May for my UWB project. Call them and ask for Jorge (they're not very good about responding via email).

One thing to be aware of is that if the valve guides need to be replaced, you want it to be done by a shop that knows what they're doing. The guides are relatively soft brass, and if the machinist just tries to press them out, they can flatten the ends and foobar the head. The end of the guide should be gournd off, and then the remainder should be pressed out from there to avoid damaging the head.
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
Posts: 3903
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 12:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm with Dan. Call Jorge at European Motorworks, then pack up your head with a $1000 bill and have them go to work on it. They've been tuning these cars since the 1980s when they were called Euro Race. Best money you'll spend on a normally aspirated 924 engine is the big valve head conversion, trust me.
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dpw928  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 1860
Location: owasso, ok 74055

PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 2:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are close to Tulsa, OK Gary Robinson knows Porsche heads and he is very reasonably priced. I've used him for both the 928 and 924 heads and it's never cost more than $200 for a rebuild. If interested, let me know and I'll get his phone number for you.

Dennis
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924er  



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 339
Location: Los Angeles California

PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i dont know shit about cars so.....

i recently did a rebuild on my head and i had a bent valve, blown head gasket, i mean it was crazy in there!

i had this mexican mechanic who took my head out and took it to a machine shop and came back and installed it in about a week, took another weak to tune that #### and find all the leaks but we finaly finished today and all it costed was $850 TOTAL including labor... i was pretty impressed

still slow is fuk.... a bit faster tho a mom with all her soccerr team kids in her van would probably beat me but i still love my 924 and ive owned several cars but i will never sell this one!
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