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Who here has rebuilt their WUR?
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Tiny  



Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Posts: 502
Location: London, UK

PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 1:17 am    Post subject: Who here has rebuilt their WUR? Reply with quote

With a timing light, I've set the timing to factory spec, and i seem to be having similar symptoms to

http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=23030 (titled "fuel pressure issue 924")

After a minute of running from a cold engine, engine revs gradually drop till car stalls. (its an auto)

Can restart no problem. This happens until the engine is at running temp, regardless of where the ign. timing and fuel mix are set. (also just to say, I know these are set correctly at the moment.)

Once at running temp, everything is fine - runs smooth and Im able to set timing and reset idle speed with no probs.

Have replaced all suspect vacuum hoses,intake boots, replaced the AAV too.

Other board members have mentioned the WUR. I want to know if anyone here has successfully opened/cleaned/rebuilt their WUR as Mike924 says the metal valve can jet jammed. Any major pitfalls when undertaking this job?

I dont want to be taking it apart to find out that putting back together is going to be as tricky as rebuilding the fuel distributor.

Thanks All

Tiny
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try disconnecting the wires to the WUR and allowing it to warm up from the engine heat only.
Same for the AAV.
See if this makes a difference.
Also an auto should be set to idle speed while in drive.
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Rasta Monsta  



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Special T Auto. . .
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Mike924  



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's easy enough to open up the WUR; there's just a screw in each corner. As the screws are Loctite'd, you need to apply quite a bit of force, so careful application with a well-fitting tool is required.

Once inside, things come out quite easily. There's an electircally-assisted bi-metallic strip and a simple 'plug'-type valve. On mine, the plug was rusted to the body (a ~1-inch steel insert in the die-cast case).

I'm sure if the rust was cleaned off, the thing would work fine. The trouble is that the parts are very small, so I'm not sure just how easing cleaning the rust off would be. I have to admit that when I took mine apart, I dropped the plug and I've never seen it since!

On a scale of 1 to 10 (fuel dist. = 10), I'd say 6.
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Last edited by Mike924 on Wed Aug 29, 2007 5:29 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Mike924  



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Of course, the other option is to replace. WURs come up pretty regularly on a 'certain well-known aution site', but as this seems to be a common failure mode of WURs (at least in our damp climate ), quality can be iffy (especially if the car it's from has been sitting for any length of time.)

I bought one new from Euro Car Parts (£120 including the dreaded), but I see the 924 ones aren't listed anymore. You'd have to risk a Golf GTi unit...
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Mike924  



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh - and, before opening the WUR up, check the resistance of the heating element. It should be around 100 ohms iirc, but if it's open circuit, the element's gone. You could attempt to repair a broken element (I know Smoothie would, just for the hell of it ), but on the same 1 - 10 scale, that would be a 15!
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Benino  



Joined: 30 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 1:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike924 wrote:
It's easy enough to open up the WUR; there's just a screw in each corner. As the screws are Loctite'd, you need to apply quite a bit of force, so careful application with a well-fitting tool is required.

Once inside, things come out quite easily. There's an electircally-assisted bi-metallic strip and a simple 'plug'-type valve. On mine, the plug was rusted to the body (a ~1-inch steel insert in the die-cast case).

I'm sure if the rust was cleaned off, the thing would work fine. The trouble is that the parts are very small, so I'm not sure just how easing cleaning the rust off would be. I have to admit that when I took mine apart, I dropped the plug and I've never seen it since!

On a scale of 1 to 10 (fuel dist. = 10), I'd say 6.



I'll agree with this although I've never taken a fuel distributor apart. The WUR is not that complex. You just need to take it apart carefully so that you don't lose anything. I cleaned mine up and put it back together. Made a huge difference in how well my car ran. I didn't replace any seals or parts. I just cleaned everything up and put it back together.
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Buwani 931  



Joined: 31 May 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 1:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ran across this a while back. Mine is a bit different but this has the basics of it

http://www.bmw320i.com/library/howto/WUR%20Servicing.pdf

I think the hardest part in the mounting and unmounting to the block. I did find a allen wrench that I had been missing while I was down there.

Shawn
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Tigger937  



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 3:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent!!!
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Tiny  



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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 1:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Guys - thanks for posting that "How to" - very cool

Just removed and opened mine to find this mess... -

so question....Whats in my WUR?!?





Tiny
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968rz  



Joined: 21 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 1:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tiny wrote:

so question....Whats in my WUR?!?
Tiny


A quick guess would be water, but I could be wrong.
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Rasta Monsta  



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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll see that water and raise you a pile of rust.
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968rz  



Joined: 21 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 12:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

High stakes playa eh? question is how would water get there; time for some fuel conditioner like Heat (to remove water from gas)
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 1:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd have said condensation if it were an even distribution all over, but the white stuff coming up just to a certain level like that has me thinking it was leaking fuel internally.
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Mike924  



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 1:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuel can't build up inside, because the bottom plate has a hole in the middle.

I'm pretty sure condensation is the culprit.
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