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Mannghi

Joined: 11 Nov 2002 Posts: 99 Location: Allentown, PA
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Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 11:27 am Post subject: Ignition Diagnosis, could use some advice |
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HI! I'm trying to figure out why my 77 isn't starting.
It cranks and cranks but won't start.
Fresh gas, fresh battery. Distrib. rotor, cam, and oil pump pulley timing marks lined up, fuel pump working.
I haven't checked the injector output but the injectors and CSV are wet after trying to start. New cap, rotor, plug wires.
Not even getting a sputter.
I'm using Haynes to work through the ignition system and I am only getting about 9-10v from the starter solenoid to the .4ohm balllast resistor, same voltage at the solenoid terminal. Haynes tells me there should be battery voltage comming from the #16 terminal but its a few volts short of the 13v that I measured on the battery terminals.
So...
Would that cause a weak spark, and no start?
If someone could explain what function this +12v going to the ballast resistor and then on to #15 terminal on the coil has, well, then at least I'd be happy I learned something.
Pehaps the trouble lies elsewhere all together?
Thanks in advance! _________________ The Stables:
1998 VW Beetle
1984 Porsche 944
1977 Porsche 924
1960 VW Karmann Ghia |
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Paul

Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 9491 Location: Southeast Wisconsin
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Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 11:34 am Post subject: |
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The coil is designed to fire at the voltage that's available while the car is cranking, not after it starts. The ballast resistor is bypassed while starting. Once you let go of the key, the coil is fed from the ballast resistor to keep it near starting voltage. _________________ White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy. |
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Paul

Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 9491 Location: Southeast Wisconsin
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Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 11:35 am Post subject: |
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Bring number one up to TDC (on its compression stroke) and make sure the rotor is pointing towards the wire you have going to #1's spark plug. _________________ White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy. |
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flames

Joined: 28 May 2007 Posts: 88 Location: Perth Australia
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Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 11:40 am Post subject: |
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Check that there is 12V, or there abouts getting to the coil while the key is in the start position.I found that mine wasn't, it would have power at the on position, but no power to the coil at start.
I ended up putting another relay in to supply 12V power to the coil while cranking, and it solved my problems. _________________ '78 924
Carrera? Body Kit
Bright Yellow |
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ideola

Joined: 01 Oct 2004 Posts: 15550 Location: Spring Lake MI
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Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 11:46 am Post subject: |
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also make sure you have the plug wires on in the correct order (1-3-4-2, clockwise) after double checking that the rotor points to one with the cam/crank @ TDC. _________________ erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made |
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Smoothie

Joined: 01 Jan 2003 Posts: 8032 Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)
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Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 12:04 pm Post subject: |
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-And be using the correct cam timing mark. The correct one is on the back of the cam sprocket, a dot or circle located at a "valley" between two teeth. _________________ "..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."
'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox |
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Paul

Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 9491 Location: Southeast Wisconsin
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Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 12:22 pm Post subject: |
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Well if we are using the shotgun approach:
Check for spark. _________________ White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy. |
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Mannghi

Joined: 11 Nov 2002 Posts: 99 Location: Allentown, PA
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Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 12:32 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the advice!
Smoothie- I may have the wrong timing mark on the cam, I used the dot on the front of the gear to line up. Didn't know about the mark on the back.
Thanks! _________________ The Stables:
1998 VW Beetle
1984 Porsche 944
1977 Porsche 924
1960 VW Karmann Ghia |
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Paul

Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 9491 Location: Southeast Wisconsin
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Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 12:41 pm Post subject: |
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After you retime the cam, you will have to pull distributor and reinstall it so that number one lines up. _________________ White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy. |
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Mannghi

Joined: 11 Nov 2002 Posts: 99 Location: Allentown, PA
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Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 9:41 am Post subject: |
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Thanks!
Re-timed the cam, using the mark on the back, and got it started up!
It wouldn't idle without giving it throttle, and I couldn't get it started again once I shut it off.
I'm guilty of indiscriminately adjusting the air bypass screw on the throttle body and the CO adjustment on the fuel dist.
Does any one know what a good "default" setting for both these might be?
Thanks again, it was sweet to hear it run, if only for a little bit. _________________ The Stables:
1998 VW Beetle
1984 Porsche 944
1977 Porsche 924
1960 VW Karmann Ghia |
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Smoothie

Joined: 01 Jan 2003 Posts: 8032 Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)
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Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 10:04 am Post subject: |
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| Mannghi wrote: | | It wouldn't idle without giving it throttle, and I couldn't get it started again once I shut it off. |
Those two symptoms are making me think you're too far to the lean side.
It would start the first time because it had some extra enrichment from the CSV and the WUR, then once it was running, you had to blip the throttle (which enriches the mix) to keep it going. It wouldn't restart then because the thermo-time switch was warmed (and open, which inactivates the CSV) and the WUR was warmed (in which case it would be producing the leaner, warm-engine mixture). -So the easy answer is go richer (clockwise) on the a:f mix adjustment in very small increments until it stays running without blipping the throttle.
There's another way to arrive at a starting point for the mixture if you'd rather... -
With engine off, you'd jumper the fuel pump relay to activate the fuel pumps, then while listening closely to the fuel distributor, turn the a:f adjustment clockwise (without applying any downward pressure that'd affect the neutral position of the air metering plate) just until you hear fuel starting to rush through the fuel dist. Then reverse the adjuster 1/2 turn (counterclockwise). _________________ "..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."
'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox |
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Mannghi

Joined: 11 Nov 2002 Posts: 99 Location: Allentown, PA
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 1:58 am Post subject: |
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Smoothie- Thanks for your advice about getting the a:f mix in the ballpark.
I set it full counterclockwise (lean), and went clockwise until I heard fuel rushing in the lines, I could kind of see them twitch as they pressurized. Then worked in full turns clockwise until it started with my foot on the gas pedal. Worked it clockwise in full turns until it started without my foot on the gas, and then turned it counterclockwise in 1/2 and then 1/4 turns until it stopped backfiring.
Also, closed the air bypass in the throttle body.
Apparently, I had the mix way too rich. Now its time to change that gassy oil!
Thanks again! _________________ The Stables:
1998 VW Beetle
1984 Porsche 944
1977 Porsche 924
1960 VW Karmann Ghia |
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Buwani 931

Joined: 31 May 2004 Posts: 308 Location: Napa California
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 2:11 am Post subject: |
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| Mannghi wrote: |
Also, closed the air bypass in the throttle body.
Thanks again! |
All the way closed? _________________ 1980 931
That's thirty minutes away. I'll be there in ten. |
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Smoothie

Joined: 01 Jan 2003 Posts: 8032 Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 3:07 am Post subject: |
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Yeah, this isn't making sense - | Mannghi wrote: | | Also, closed the air bypass in the throttle body. | - unless the throttle stop isn't set correctly. (-Or you have another air leak past the throttle (as in a leaky decel valve (if your car has one)).)
The throttle stop might have been mistaken for an idle speed adjustment by someone in the past, so I'd check it. When it's set correctly, the true idle speed adjuster (the "air bypass") should need to be opened some to arrive at the correct idle speed.
To set the throttle stop -
(From Probst's book on Bosch fuel injection.)
"It's set at the factory, does not normally require adjustment," bla bla..
[First verify that there's just enough slack in the throttle cable so it's not affecting the throttle valve opening, then - ]
1) back off the adjusting screw until there is clearance between its' tip and the throttle valve lever
2) place a thin piece of paper between the screw tip and throttle lever
3) turn the screw in until it lightly contacts the paper (basically using the paper as a feeler gauge)
4) from this position, remove the paper and turn the screw in an additional 1/2 turn
(-And don't ad-lib this time. (I have no idea what you did with that a:f adjustment. )) _________________ "..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."
'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox |
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Mannghi

Joined: 11 Nov 2002 Posts: 99 Location: Allentown, PA
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 5:18 am Post subject: |
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Yea, that throttle lever stop is way out of whack.
I'm sure it was being used to adjust the idle.
"set from the factory" heh heh.
Thanks again! _________________ The Stables:
1998 VW Beetle
1984 Porsche 944
1977 Porsche 924
1960 VW Karmann Ghia |
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