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Ignition Diagnosis, could use some advice
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Mannghi  



Joined: 11 Nov 2002
Posts: 99
Location: Allentown, PA

PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 11:27 am    Post subject: Ignition Diagnosis, could use some advice Reply with quote

HI! I'm trying to figure out why my 77 isn't starting.
It cranks and cranks but won't start.
Fresh gas, fresh battery. Distrib. rotor, cam, and oil pump pulley timing marks lined up, fuel pump working.
I haven't checked the injector output but the injectors and CSV are wet after trying to start. New cap, rotor, plug wires.
Not even getting a sputter.
I'm using Haynes to work through the ignition system and I am only getting about 9-10v from the starter solenoid to the .4ohm balllast resistor, same voltage at the solenoid terminal. Haynes tells me there should be battery voltage comming from the #16 terminal but its a few volts short of the 13v that I measured on the battery terminals.
So...
Would that cause a weak spark, and no start?
If someone could explain what function this +12v going to the ballast resistor and then on to #15 terminal on the coil has, well, then at least I'd be happy I learned something.

Pehaps the trouble lies elsewhere all together?

Thanks in advance!
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The coil is designed to fire at the voltage that's available while the car is cranking, not after it starts. The ballast resistor is bypassed while starting. Once you let go of the key, the coil is fed from the ballast resistor to keep it near starting voltage.
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bring number one up to TDC (on its compression stroke) and make sure the rotor is pointing towards the wire you have going to #1's spark plug.
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flames  



Joined: 28 May 2007
Posts: 88
Location: Perth Australia

PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check that there is 12V, or there abouts getting to the coil while the key is in the start position.I found that mine wasn't, it would have power at the on position, but no power to the coil at start.
I ended up putting another relay in to supply 12V power to the coil while cranking, and it solved my problems.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

also make sure you have the plug wires on in the correct order (1-3-4-2, clockwise) after double checking that the rotor points to one with the cam/crank @ TDC.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

-And be using the correct cam timing mark. The correct one is on the back of the cam sprocket, a dot or circle located at a "valley" between two teeth.
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well if we are using the shotgun approach:

Check for spark.
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Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
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Mannghi  



Joined: 11 Nov 2002
Posts: 99
Location: Allentown, PA

PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice!
Smoothie- I may have the wrong timing mark on the cam, I used the dot on the front of the gear to line up. Didn't know about the mark on the back.
Thanks!
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Paul  



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After you retime the cam, you will have to pull distributor and reinstall it so that number one lines up.
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Mannghi  



Joined: 11 Nov 2002
Posts: 99
Location: Allentown, PA

PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks!
Re-timed the cam, using the mark on the back, and got it started up!

It wouldn't idle without giving it throttle, and I couldn't get it started again once I shut it off.

I'm guilty of indiscriminately adjusting the air bypass screw on the throttle body and the CO adjustment on the fuel dist.
Does any one know what a good "default" setting for both these might be?

Thanks again, it was sweet to hear it run, if only for a little bit.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mannghi wrote:
It wouldn't idle without giving it throttle, and I couldn't get it started again once I shut it off.

Those two symptoms are making me think you're too far to the lean side.
It would start the first time because it had some extra enrichment from the CSV and the WUR, then once it was running, you had to blip the throttle (which enriches the mix) to keep it going. It wouldn't restart then because the thermo-time switch was warmed (and open, which inactivates the CSV) and the WUR was warmed (in which case it would be producing the leaner, warm-engine mixture). -So the easy answer is go richer (clockwise) on the a:f mix adjustment in very small increments until it stays running without blipping the throttle.

There's another way to arrive at a starting point for the mixture if you'd rather... -
With engine off, you'd jumper the fuel pump relay to activate the fuel pumps, then while listening closely to the fuel distributor, turn the a:f adjustment clockwise (without applying any downward pressure that'd affect the neutral position of the air metering plate) just until you hear fuel starting to rush through the fuel dist. Then reverse the adjuster 1/2 turn (counterclockwise).
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Mannghi  



Joined: 11 Nov 2002
Posts: 99
Location: Allentown, PA

PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 1:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoothie- Thanks for your advice about getting the a:f mix in the ballpark.

I set it full counterclockwise (lean), and went clockwise until I heard fuel rushing in the lines, I could kind of see them twitch as they pressurized. Then worked in full turns clockwise until it started with my foot on the gas pedal. Worked it clockwise in full turns until it started without my foot on the gas, and then turned it counterclockwise in 1/2 and then 1/4 turns until it stopped backfiring.

Also, closed the air bypass in the throttle body.

Apparently, I had the mix way too rich. Now its time to change that gassy oil!

Thanks again!
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Buwani 931  



Joined: 31 May 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 2:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mannghi wrote:


Also, closed the air bypass in the throttle body.


Thanks again!


All the way closed?
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 3:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, this isn't making sense -
Mannghi wrote:
Also, closed the air bypass in the throttle body.
- unless the throttle stop isn't set correctly. (-Or you have another air leak past the throttle (as in a leaky decel valve (if your car has one)).)
The throttle stop might have been mistaken for an idle speed adjustment by someone in the past, so I'd check it. When it's set correctly, the true idle speed adjuster (the "air bypass") should need to be opened some to arrive at the correct idle speed.

To set the throttle stop -
(From Probst's book on Bosch fuel injection.)
"It's set at the factory, does not normally require adjustment," bla bla..
[First verify that there's just enough slack in the throttle cable so it's not affecting the throttle valve opening, then - ]
1) back off the adjusting screw until there is clearance between its' tip and the throttle valve lever
2) place a thin piece of paper between the screw tip and throttle lever
3) turn the screw in until it lightly contacts the paper (basically using the paper as a feeler gauge)
4) from this position, remove the paper and turn the screw in an additional 1/2 turn

(-And don't ad-lib this time. (I have no idea what you did with that a:f adjustment. ))
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Mannghi  



Joined: 11 Nov 2002
Posts: 99
Location: Allentown, PA

PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea, that throttle lever stop is way out of whack.
I'm sure it was being used to adjust the idle.

"set from the factory" heh heh.

Thanks again!
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