924Board.org

[daveo]

HI ALL

just got the new SC a Eton off a merc, has any one got piks of mounts for it, or any info will be welcome

thanks

Dave

[leadfoot]

Are you running an intercooler? what style and where?
EFI or carbs??
Does the eaton have a drive extension?
Is the alternator in stock N?A position?
Are you running air con?
Some pics of the charger would help a little too...

Do you have any preference on keeping the stock manifold??
Leadfoot
_________________
1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress...

[RC]

Dave,
Dont be overwhelmed with Leadfoot`s list of valid considerations. There is no bolt on kit available and all your mounts, drive and plumbing etc will have to be fabricated from what you can source and afford, either by yourself or a shop. No setup will be perfect as there are conflicting issues, however some comprimises will work better than others.

Take the time beforehand to research the various possible alternatives. Start with your objectives and plan accordingly. Study Leadfoot and Endwrench`s setups here and check out other sites where the eaton is used to get some ideas.

Discuss your thoughts here by all means but in the end it will be your decision and your money. After your previous experience with hastily manufactured and unproven designs sure you appreciate the value of effective engineering as much as Mercedes.

Not even my 2c worth as we dont have 2c in Australia. If its not worth 5c its free.

Roger

[simsport]

If the eaton m62 unit is a factory fit part it will prob have a casting which includes the outlet/bypass. If its a std body m62 you can mount it as I did mine by making two steel plates.
The first mounts to the side of the engine block using bolt holes that can be seen below the original intake manifold. This plate has to be folded at the correct angle to site the blower in a horizontal plane (obviously the block is at approx 45degrees).

This main plate has a hole machined in it which is the same as the intake hole for the blower. The blower can then bolt to the plate to form a strong support. You also need to fab a throttle mount and bypass.

At the front end a smaller flat plate is made which picks up on the forward body of the nose drive and is bolted to holes at the front of the block.

This does all depend on the body being used, the nose drive length as has been mentioned and if you intend it all to fit with a fabricated manifold etc.

In short its not that hard, just depends on what you have/are aiming for.
I can sort a few pictures for you if you wish.

Cheers
Simon
PS 234BHP, 314NM.....Getting better all the time!
_________________
Blown is always best!

[daveo]

Thanks Guys

Leadfoot i will be using a intercooler of a ford to be front mounted, but having just seen BASS GT post & piks of his setup i may try to copy that (steve love the car just got my ARDS on sat when is your next race)
the alt is in stock position, and im not runing air con, i will be using Bicke carbs as you have seen on my old post as i have a plenum for this,
Does the eaton have a drive extension? haw do you mean?

Thanks RC as you say my experience in the past has been very very expensive , & i will be doing my home work on this one,

thanks Boys

Dave

[daveo]

thanks Simon you r on line at the same time.
if you can send or post some piks it will help

thanks Dave

[RC]

Apologies Simsport,
forgot about your installation.

Please post your pics here if you can as I`m on a similar path to Daveo planning a SC14 install and am sure to pick up some useful info from your successful setup.

Cheers,
Roger

[leadfoot]

Probably the hardest thing to do in the whole installation is making sure the belts are aligned... a drive extention on the front of the blower is usually found on most eaton designs, see the different lengths of these units by what I refer to:
http://www.capa.com.au/eaton.htm
If you can elongate your mounting bolt holes to alow some play in the alignment, about 1cm (5mm in either direction) or make a test piece to make sure everything aligns before you do the final install.

Are you running your carbs blow through or suck through then?
Leadfoot
_________________
1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress...

[daveo]

Thanks Leadfoot

i am looking at blow through

Dave

[leadfoot]

Suggest using simsports modeling as he has played around with eaton's alot, really depends if you have one of those eaton's that has the intake at the back and you need clearance from the brake booster or engine mount...

So you have a couple of options on throttle placement too now....
pre blower... or post blower...

If you go pre SC you need to run your bypass valve around the throttle and probably get a longer throttle cable... a 951 cable will do nicely, a 944 cable is longer than the 24's but I can't guarantee it will reach the distance.

One thing you can do is modify your coolant crossover pipe, the design sucks to begin with, if you open it up you'll find the end where it splits does not actually have a hole, it is just welded to the side, you can turn the rubber reducer at an angle and have a new pipe made with a bend, run a single pipe down the length of the block , IIRC you can use 5/8 heater hose from the end of this pipe to the heater valve and split it to the two connections to the coolant flange at the back of the head using a dual tee using one 5/8" nipple and one 1/2" nipple.
Run a mounting tab to the rear bolt hole as pictured only... as this will give you more clearance, and more options of mounting holes to the block.
Lastly when your SC outlet manifold is made pay attention to clearances to the tie rod.. it gets very tight down there and when working with the car on jackstands the tie rod sits inches further down than when the car is back on its wheels and the a arm is level...

Leadfoot

_________________
1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress...

[simsport]

Leadfoot is spot on with the coolant pipe issue. I have now followed BassGt's lead and have routed the coolant from the rear of the head up and to the front to tee into the line to the radiator just after the thermostat housing.

I have a Davies Craig water pump and with the coolant flow mod and a 944 turbo rad the engine is cooler now.

Will get the photos sorted tomorrow.

Cheers
Simon
_________________
Blown is always best!

[endwrench]

Simsport, I'd really like to see those pictures. Can you give a base reason for doing this? Do you believe the head cools better with this mod or is it generally just better coolant flow thru the entire engine?

Todd
_________________
'79 924NA. Rebuilt 9.5:1, MSDS header, Mega Squirt Injection, MJLJ-EDIS Ignition, 1.6L Whipple Charger and Intercooler, 10lbs Boost, 944 Trans, Custom HD Clutch.
"simsport" said....superchargers are better than turbos its official!....

[simsport]

Not sure if this works but here goes.

http://profile.imageshack.us/user/murphy2007/

The main engine picture shows the orientation of the plain m62. It also shows the blue waterline running from the back of the head to the front and being fed into the hot line out of the thermostat body.

There are a couple of other shots (sorry for how grotty and old it all looks, needs a rebuild!) to show the metal plates front and rear that hold the blower and the throttle body box which also has the bypass pipe feeding into the base of it, just visible as a blue pipe in the picture.

Last but not least is the latest rolling road plot at 228 bhp. It was 234 but we have cleaned it up a bit to smooth it and I think its looking good. Should be able to get nearer the aimed for 250 with a decent exhaust manifold and a remap.

Future plan is to go to MOTEC as it will run the wider range of injectors. The Emerald M3D box has been great but I'm aiming to max out now.

The reason for the cooling mod is in truth down to the electric water pump. You see the standard pump (you can see the alloy body but capped in several places and with no internals) draws the hot water out the back of the head by virtue of the position of the impellor and the design of the body. Once you change that and pressure fill the whole alloy body you change the direction of flow and run the risk of stalling the water out of cylinder 4, the hottest cylinder.

The advantage of the elec system is greater flow with the stat removed, the pump body free of obstruction and (with the cooling pipe mod) a better flow out of the rear of the head.

Cheers
Simon
_________________
Blown is always best!

[Hoboceratops]

I'm just curious if anyone has attempted this with the 2.5L from the S? Not saying I'm thinking of it seriously, just curious to see if it had been done.
_________________
1987 924S: Very much in love with it, even if it's all finnicky

[daveo]

thanks simon for the piks gives me something to go on, & thanks Leadfoot for the info on the water mod, lots to do but i will get it up & runing soon i hope

Dave