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How-To - waste a full day on a simple problem
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:39 am    Post subject: How-To - waste a full day on a simple problem Reply with quote

The fun starts with a reasonably nice day and the opportunity to go out and fix a couple of little nagging problems - a squeek and the sound of something rattling back and forth in the dashboard with each turn.
So, first remove the steering wheel, column bezels, gauge cluster, disconnect speedo cable..
Give a good look around with a flashlight for something loose back there.. Disconnect both ends of the hvac duct hose that runs past the steering shaft to check it inside - find nothing. Finally give up looking and have hope that the problem will have fixed itself just from disassembling-reassembling everything.. Notice a double connector hanging in the area behind the fuel/temp gauge with only 3 of 4 connections present - look it up in the Haynes and find that's how it's supposed to be - a connection from the tach that goes nowhere - no problem. Ok, while we're in there, might as well check the gauge light bulbs. Get the Ohm-meter, remove each bulb one-by-one and check - all are good - ok, good to know. Button it all back up - reattach speedo cable, gauge cluster back in, signal switch assembly back in, bezels, steering wheel all back in... Go for a drive....excellent - the rattling on turns and the squeek are gone, yay! Need gas, so go for a fillup. On the way home I notice just a hint or two of crappei running...hmmm, write it off to the weather or my imagination. Later that night, take 'er for a ride down to the watering hole for exactly one beer (really, it did happen)(actually would have had exactly two, but wasn't feeling great, plus now that they've stopped smoking in bars here, there's nothing to mask the smell of the old place and it reeks just a bit of something between the bat cage and elephant exhibit at the Bronx Zoo). Ok, I leave there.. On the way to the car I notice a skunk smell - hmmm a skunk in almost downtown New Brunswick, NJ - wonder where...not likely to find out and not important, so on my way.. A half mile down the road toward downtown I make my right turn and have to steer around a squashed skunk in the road - "Oh, there 'e is". Continue on and notice more hints of crappei running.. so something's trying to get my attention here. I was going to drive over to let the dog out, but the running's shakey enough now that I'm loosing confidence in it - so swap cars and start thinking I got a tank full of bad gas when I filled-up earlier.
Next day - put the CIS tester on it - everything looks normal, no problems with the pressures, no signs of a relay or wiring problem as the pressures are steady - idle is pretty good...Take it for a drive around the block and it's still not right - and whatever it is is getting worse ever so slightly. Take it back and idle on the driveway. I notice a hint of perfume-de-skunk - hmm so just driving by a dead skunk the day before leaves your undercarriage smelling that way.. Throw in a bottle a fuel drier/antifreeze just for fun. At this point it's idling a bit rough and giving it gas causes it to sputter - look at the tach and find it's going to zero, then back up in irregular patterns. Ok, maybe it's that DITC connector - it was a rainy night and it would normally be a problem only in wet or humid weather - but then again I tightened-up the pins on that connector, so it shouldn't be a problem again - and hadn't been since I did that. I give it a wiggle anyway - it doesn't help. Ok, maybe something happened with that double connector for the tach when I was handling it, so off again with the steering wheel, bezels, gauge cluster etc. - Nothing wrong with that connector. So start 'er up to see if it's fixed itself. -No, now there's no starter. I try smacking the starter with a crowbar - still nothing.. What next - maybe the ignition switch..I take it out and take it apart - it's in pretty good shape, but gets a cleaning and a fresh dose of dielectric grease since it's apart. Put it back together, test it, it's good, reconnect it and give it a turn...ignition-on good, but still no starter. Then I finally think to look for the battery charge light when the ignition is switched on... No light! SOB! Pull out the gauge cluster and give that bulb holder a slight turn and there it was - light came on. -So there it is - how to waste a full days' worth of time over two days fixing a light bulb. -And it all started with a simple (and as it turned out un-necessary) check of the gauge bulbs.

What happened was the alternator stopped charging and the battery slowly went dead - and that happened because the alternator needs to see 12v+ at its' "D+" terminal to turn itself on and start charging - and that 12v+ comes through the battery/charge light in the dash. So - no bulb, burnt bulb, bad bulb connection or bad wiring to and from bulb to D+ (the "exciter circuit") leaves the alternator shut off and not charging.
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need a few more beers....
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augidog  



Joined: 03 Mar 2003
Posts: 1360
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 10:00 am    Post subject: Re: How-To - waste a full day on a simple problem Reply with quote

Smoothie wrote:

What happened was the alternator stopped charging and the battery slowly went dead - and that happened because the alternator needs to see 12v+ at its' "D+" terminal to turn itself on and start charging - and that 12v+ comes through the battery/charge light in the dash. So - no bulb, burnt bulb, bad bulb connection or bad wiring to and from bulb to D+ (the "exciter circuit") leaves the alternator shut off and not charging.


This is a brilliant find!!! Nice detective work. This explains the past problem with charging I had. After it cleaned up the cluster my problems with charging disappeared. This explains why. This was the farthest thing from a waste.
New Brunswick?? Old Bridge here. Ever eat at the Thai Noodle in Highland Park?
Nice find. I bet you save people a whole lotta headaches with your find.
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1978 924 95 mile daily driver.
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with paul give your self a beer.. hmmm I dont like taking off
the guage cluster that many times.. though.. have been there done that..I really caught up with the story & your car & the skunk for awhile.. really.

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JB 924  



Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 606
Location: Hessen, Germany

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Holy Crap. Can anyone take notes, summarize the thing, and PM them to me?
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dpw928  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 1860
Location: owasso, ok 74055

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had the same thing happen when I changed the instrument panel circuit card on the 928. No light, no charge. Not sure about the Bosch alternator, but the Valeo aftermarket alternator on my 928 will self excite at 2800 rpms then continue to charge at lower rpms.

Dennis
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Raceboy  



Joined: 01 Mar 2004
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Location: Estonia, Europe

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I struggled with the same problem about 6-7 years ago and also blamed it on the CIS.
I'm not really sure what caused me to replace alternator wires but after that suddenly "the CIS problems" were gone
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 9095
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

had that problem too. went to an electrician and fixed the bulb thing in 30mins. tho in my case the problem was more severe....the wiring could not handle 12V and it had to be overwired using a relay.
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
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Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 3:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got a new performance automotion cat. in yesterdays mail.
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D Hook  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 3158
Location: Omaha, NE

PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many times just cleaning the grounds in the engine bay will give better performance overall.
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MGQ  



Joined: 19 Dec 2003
Posts: 53
Location: southwest MI

PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

excellent, now I know why my battery isn't charging, even though the alternator tests good at AutoZone.

How do you get the gauges out of the car? pull the speedometer cable and the rest of the gauges come out the front in one unit I hope? I'm not sure what you mean about gauge bezels.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 10:26 am    Post subject: Re: How-To - waste a full day on a simple problem Reply with quote

augidog wrote:
New Brunswick?? Old Bridge here. Ever eat at the Thai Noodle in Highland Park?

Yeah no, I'm just a couple miles from New Brunswick - I just go there for beer.
Thai Noodle? No - too much carbs aggravate my already aggravating sinus trouble. -But beer's so important I'll make an exception for it on occasion.
I imagine you drive past my area about twice a day if you're still working up north. I have a vague recollection of you mentioning driving on Rt.80 for work, right?
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MGQ-
Aim your steering wheel straight ahead and lock it in that position.
Pull the horn pad straight back to remove it.
remove the large nut, then pull the steering wheel off.
The column bezels are the plastic trim pieces. remove the 2 small Phillips head screws from below to seperate the halves, then remove them.
Remove the screws that hold the turn signal/wipers switch on - should be 4 for your car. Unplug its' connectors and remove the signal/wipers switch. (All this is necessary for my car with the later 3-screw signal/wiper switch. It may not not be necessary for yours.)
Remove the 2 Phillips screws that go up through the top of the left and right side of the large 3-gauge cluster. Pull it out just a few inches (a little more on the right side) and reach in through the right side, find the speedo cable and unscrew it from the back of the speedo. Now the gauge cluster should come out and hang by the wiring harness on the left.

That large plastic part that holds the 3 gauges is sometimes called a bezel. The individual gauges come out of it by pushing them toward yourself from the back.
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 4448
Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The multiguage can just be pushed out from the rear of the cluster and unplugged without removing all the above in my car.
Change bulbs and refit.
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pocketscience  



Joined: 23 Apr 2006
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Location: Sydney, Australia... mate!

PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ozzie wrote:
The multiguage can just be pushed out from the rear of the cluster and unplugged without removing all the above in my car.
Change bulbs and refit.


Yup, same here.
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