924Board.org

[angeloz]

Hello All! - I went to start the car - and lets just say it's a good thing I step on the brake when starting or I'd be in deep - . I am getting a quote of $1250 USD for new bearing, clutch and they say to change the main seal while we (they) are at it. Anyone else had this same problem and if so what did you pay? Also - am I mentally challenged for not doing this myself? For an Accountant I am pretty mechanically inclined. So I guess my second question really is - has anyone else done this specific job? I saw in the technical section a guy who replaced his clutch (the cool yellow car) but did so by shifting everything to the rear and not fully removing the bell housing - I don't think that would give me enough room to straighten everything out in there and put the new bearing in. Any thoughts on this stuff or had I better stick to counting beans?

Thanks everybody for your help!
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1980 Porsche 924 Special Edition
40K miles - showroom new - 2nd owner

[Lizard]

I would recommend doing all the maintenance on your car yourself or you will get hosed. in order to do this job you will need to pull the tranny out which isnt that big of a deal, but it does add to the labour, unless your clutch is really worn you can get away with replacing the throw out bearing and guide tube, it may be worthwhile to pull the clutch out replace the rear main seal, this will also allow you to inspect the clutch componants as well.
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3 928s,

[Ozzie]

[924RACR]

It's not IMO too bad a job, technically speaking; you need plenty of time, a good clean (warm) place to work, and the right tools (including jacks and stands. But it's not real complicated. I would rate it as no more challenging than a head gasket - just a lot more work.
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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

[-nick]

Emphasis on this part -

"plenty of time, a good clean (warm) place to work, and the right tools"

If you have that, then do it!
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1980 931S
15psi boost, MS-II, EDIS, 951 IC, custom intake, Ford 5.0L throttle body, Forge BOV, WB o2, G31 w/LSD, 964 wheels, 968 rear sway, Bilsteins, 200# Welt. springs. A laptop, and a partridge in a pear tree.
1991 964 C4 Cabriolet

[Hoboceratops]

[Ozzie]

I found recipts totalling around $8k over 6 years and a lot of that I could do myself.
About $7k was labor.
The PO was not mechanically minded.
_________________
Porsche 924 1984 (UK import) NA
Its AUTO and its BLACK
Montego Black on black/red
Engineer of Electro/Mechanical Systems Maintenance

[angeloz]

Thanks for all the input - I do have the tools and the warm garage so maybe I will give it a try, as for the time I guess I will have to make it-

If anyone has any advice on the job itself I am all ears. Other than that I will be referring to the Haynes manual and the posts in the technical section.

Wish me luck - When I do the job (next month probably) I will take some pics and post.

-Angelo
_________________
1980 Porsche 924 Special Edition
40K miles - showroom new - 2nd owner

[Lizard]

disconnect and remove the shifter lever from inside car,
disconnect TT shaft coupler to tranny coupler and slide onto tranny shaft using a large screwdriver.
remove the bolt which holds shift lever onto tranny,
push the shifter tube as far towards the front of the car as you can.
disconnect the bolts which hold the tranny to the torque tube,
use a jack to support tranny weight, undo tranny support bolts.
Slide tranny rear ward and lower at the same time to clear shifter rod.
undo the 4 bolts holding torque tube to bellhousing and slide the torque tube back as far as you can.
disconnect the clutch cable, and undo all bellhousing bolts.
Remove the bellhousing,
there are 2 bolts holding the guide tube on remove them then remove the guide tube and throw out bearing as one unit.
install is the reverse of removal, however I would recommend that you coat the guide tube with a synthetic grease so the throw out bearing can slide easy on it. as well BEFORE you reassemble, make sure to inspect the pilot bearing, make sure it is there and in good shape.
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3 928s,

[angeloz]

Wow Lizard sounds like you've done this a bit - I have all the normal tools, jacks, jack stands, etc. Are there any "funny" tools required? Example - I had an early 85 944 and I changed the oil cooler (inside the engine kind) and I ended up needing a goofy 24mm wrench which I searched everywhere for about a month. Any stuff like that on this job?

Thanks very much for your time in your replies and helpful tips.

-Angelo
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1980 Porsche 924 Special Edition
40K miles - showroom new - 2nd owner

[Rasta Monsta]

[macBdog]

[angeloz]

[gohim]

My local hardware store carries M12-1.5 25mm bolts. But they're only grade 8.8, at $1.60 each.

I did a quick Web Search and found this company

Coburn-Myers Fastener Systems

email: sales@coburnmyers.com

Item # .12F25MHF/10.9, M12-1.5 X 25 HEX CAP SCREW DIN 961 CL 10.9

This is 25mm and full threaded. there is also a listing for 20mm, fully threaded. So you could go short, or you could cut them down. Measure the thickness of the flywheel, and add it to the thickness of the crankshaft flange to determine if you can go short or long.

Is this what you were looking for?

Minimum Order is $50, and they take credit cards.

Toll-Free Phone nUmber 800-662-7459

[Lizard]

actually there is something that I did forget which is kind of silly of me,
you have to disconnect the CVs from the tranny,
this takes a special tool it is a 12 point 8mm allen key, also known as a triple square.
I suggest that you dig all the built up dirt out of them first, and whack the tool in there with a hammer, they strip VERY easy, you can purchase new ones from the VW dealership, I would recommend replacing them all as a WYIT, it cost me $45 for 24 of the bolts a couple years ago, but it is worth the money.

I have done it more times than I care to remember.
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3 928s,