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Cold Start Diagnosis

 
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 5:30 am    Post subject: Cold Start Diagnosis Reply with quote

While sitting on jackstands for the last month and a half, Shaggy has developed a cold start issue. I did read the FAQ carefully, leading me to the following questions.

It fires right up, and dies, so the CSV is firing (right?)
Putting my foot on the gas does not keep it running, so it is not an AAV issue (right?)
WUR problem would make it run rough, but would by unlikely to make it die completely (right?)

Here is my theory. The car runs off the CSV briefly then cuts out as if there is no fuel, even with the throttle on the floor. Therefore it seems like there is insufficient vacuum to pull down the CIS metering plate. But how could this be?

The rest of the theory: I made fun of Shaggy's PO not long ago for disconnecting the vacuum limiter. I hooked it back up, and there was a noticeable decrease in exhaust side backfire. Is it possible that the vaccum limiter is stuck open, causing lack 'o fuel?

I know the easy way to check this is to look at the metering plate while cold cranking, or to disconnect the vacuum limiter, but I just wanted to know what you guys thought.

TIA

(fake) rasta (and all)
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sequential  



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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flosho  



Joined: 01 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 5:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What were you doing to it while it was on jack stands? Just something simple but last time I put my intake back on I forgot to hook up a vacuum line on the back of the intake... Did the exact same thing. Would actually run, but barely.

Go back through and check vacuum lines?
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-nick  



Joined: 16 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Other than flosho's vac line suggestion, I would suspect the warm-up regulator, or the CIS is just adjusted a little lean. The WUR can give the cold start-die dance.

The factory manual has a diagram of fuel pressure vs. temp. That's my guess if the vac lines check out.
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sequential  



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 6:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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sequential  



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 6:58 am    Post subject: Re: Cold Start Diagnosis Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
The rest of the theory: I made fun of Shaggy's PO not long ago for disconnecting the vacuum limiter. I hooked it back up, and there was a noticeable decrease in exhaust side backfire. Is it possible that the vaccum limiter is stuck open, causing lack 'o fuel?

Not likely. Vacuum limiter stuck open would be equivalent to opening the throttle, resulting in more air, resulting in wider opening of air metering plate, so more fuel to go along with the more air, etc.


I had a similar situation when I started doing my repaint last June. The car sat unused except for the occasional startup to move it on the driveway and one day it just started running crappei. Nothing had been touched other than body parts, so it didn't make sense. Tried fuel injector cleaner, tried "drygas" water remover - it continued to run poorly while I did the bodywork.
-Had to pump the pedal to keep it running by the way, so try that - pumping it rather than simply holding it down, delivers a richer air:fuel mix.
When it was finished and ready to be driven again, I had to re-do my AAV adjustment, then with that along with driving it some, it was back to normal. It's probably just moisture in the fuel affecting combustion plus maybe causing some corrosion and sticking of fuel system parts.
May as well check the dist cap for moisture as well.
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just for fun bypass the fuel pump relay or pop in your spare.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think The Dog (the Smooth Dog, that is) has it. The crappei-ness is slowly going away. I think a little highway blow-out is in order.

OOOOOO got my brakes/wheels installed finally! WOOT! Pics coming. . .

rasta
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And speaking of fuel, I am eyeing a Pierburg pump on Ebay for $180. Anybody got a better price?

TIA
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-nick  



Joined: 16 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

D@mn! How come my problems aren't solved this easily.

Sounds like a decent price on the Pierburg. These pumps seem to jump up in price every year. And mine's got a good howl lately...
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1980 931S
15psi boost, MS-II, EDIS, 951 IC, custom intake, Ford 5.0L throttle body, Forge BOV, WB o2, G31 w/LSD, 964 wheels, 968 rear sway, Bilsteins, 200# Welt. springs. A laptop, and a partridge in a pear tree.
1991 964 C4 Cabriolet
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul wrote:
Just for fun bypass the fuel pump relay or pop in your spare.


Umm, I take it I am supposed to carry a spare? Any way around the $140 requested by EBS for this?
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-nick  



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Carry a medium gauge wire with two male spade terminals on the end. I don't remember which # terminal you plug the ends into, but that's how you bypass the relay. Not a bad idea to toss the wire in your glovebox. Keep it as limp home only though.
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1980 931S
15psi boost, MS-II, EDIS, 951 IC, custom intake, Ford 5.0L throttle body, Forge BOV, WB o2, G31 w/LSD, 964 wheels, 968 rear sway, Bilsteins, 200# Welt. springs. A laptop, and a partridge in a pear tree.
1991 964 C4 Cabriolet
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flosho  



Joined: 01 Jul 2004
Posts: 3160
Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin

PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

-nick wrote:
Carry a medium gauge wire with two male spade terminals on the end. I don't remember which # terminal you plug the ends into, but that's how you bypass the relay. Not a bad idea to toss the wire in your glovebox. Keep it as limp home only though.



Jump the 87 and 30 connectors on the relay.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2007 5:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wacky. Like I said above, it "felt" like the engine wasn't pulling enough vacuum to pull down the metering plate. So this morning, before driving it to the alignment shop, I popped the boot off, and had a look, and the plate and opening were pretty dirty with gooey blowby from the last 26 years. The plate seemed to move OK, but I cleaned it carefully with TB cleaner and a towel, as well as the opening. It took a bit of scrubbing!

Mind you, it was 18 degrees here this morning, but the car fired right up and idled fine. I guess the "goo factor" was preventing smooth operation of the air metering plate.

Thanks to all for the help,


rasta
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