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OutOfTheBox · Joined: 31 Mar 2006 Posts: 434

its 2 parts.

You need to get 2 good spanners, one on each side.

I jacked my car down, on one of the spanners, to get the force, too loosen.

This would be dumb, if you cant lower gently, you might snap something.

Worked like a dream for me, the problem I found was that I couldn't get enough leverage lieing under the car.

flosho · Posted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 6:37 am Post subject:

That seems like it would work..

It seems like you're saying you have to have a wrench on both fittings? I see that its two parts. Will they both spin if I turn the fitting on the oil line part?
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OutOfTheBox · Joined: 31 Mar 2006 Posts: 434

The fitting on the pipe is a compression fitting.

The fitting screwed into your aluminium oil pan is the female part of the compression fitting.

You will have to spin the whole pipe assembly around if you try removing the oil pipe without holding a spanner on the oil pan side of the fitting.

BUT You don't need to remove the fitting in the oil pan.

Just hold the oil pan side of the fitting with one spanner then loosen the pipe side of the fitting, anticlockwise.

MAKE SURE YOU DO THE SAME WHEN FITTING THE NEW ONE(but clockwise)

If you dont when tightening you can easily strip the aluminium thread in the oil pan.

If you loosen the oil pan side of the fitting when removing, then remove replace(maybe clean) the washer and refit. ( aluminium be careful)

The secret to this job, is two good spanners, if you round the faces of the fittings, by using a cheap wrench, then you will SCREAM...

flosho · Posted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 8:45 am Post subject:

I've tried everything... I just cant get enough leverage on the pan side fitting to hold it still while i crank on the line side..

I'm gonna go look to buy a new wrench. I'm assuming spanner is our adjustable wrench?

Is there any other way to get by with this? Could i cut the oil line, then unscrew the whole fitting from the oil pan, then separate the two? thread the oil pan side back in and go on about my way...?

My other solution is patch the break on the separator with jb weld and then just put a breather on the hose coming off the cylinder head and drive it like that until I can get it to a shop with a lift which should make it easier to get that oil line off..
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flosho · Posted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 8:54 am Post subject:

Infact I may just cut the old rubber line apart, and use some good heater hose.. then just loosen the part on the turbo and pull the line out and have it rewelded on by a shop and call it a day..

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bass gt · Posted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 8:59 am Post subject:

Flosho,

Try heating it up. A paint stripping gun at first, and if not, a small blow torch. Don't go mental, just give it enough heat to allow it to expand slightly. And lots and lots of WD40 type penetrating oil afterwards.
Also extend the lever lenght of the wrench if you can. Fit a large ring spanner over the end and use that to give you another 10-12"

flosho · Posted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 9:04 am Post subject:

I'll try a heat gun to see if that works, but a few members on here have replaced the rubber part with some heater hose and hose clamps and haven't had any problems, so I may go that way.. I wanted to get this done by saturday nite because I am auto-x'ing on sunday..
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bass gt · Posted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 9:09 am Post subject:

Flosho,

I guess that might work. Regarding the removal of it, i seem to remember i could not get mine out without completely removing the filter block and oil cooler lines. Get yourself a decent quality 24mm spanner. It's tight down there. Also, when you refit the filter housing, smear a little heavy grease around the rubber O ring that mates to the block. Normal engine oil can be a little hit or miss.

Steve

flosho · Posted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 9:29 am Post subject:

bass gt · Posted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 9:47 am Post subject:

I use a standard LM grease. Something with a bit of weight to it. You don't need to go mental with it, just put a nice healthy amount around the O ring once it's seated in the filter block. And check the torque setting for the filter block. From memory it's quite high. You won't get a torque wrench in there with the head/ex manifold on. Use a rubber/copper mallet to just nip up the centre bolt. And don't forget to test fit the cooler lines before you tighten the housing up. They won't stretch if the alignment is out!!

flosho · Posted: Mon Sep 04, 2006 12:07 pm Post subject:

Any tips on how to get the bolt holding the oil filter block to the block? I'm thinking I need one of them S wrenches..
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flosho · Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 2:17 pm Post subject:

Ok, back to a normal oil change... well and put the fuel dist back..

Anyways.. any suggestions on the torque requirements for the lines going on the oil filter block? I know the requirements, but I cant get a torque wrench on a few...

Oil feed line on the top of the filter block? -tightened this one til it was snug and then gave it a little extra(similar to a spark plug requirement)

Oil filter to block bolt? - tightened this one a little tighter than snug..about hand tight and then a 1/2 turn.

The bolts that hold the turbo drain line to the center of the turbo housing? Tightened these hand tight and a little more.

I didn't want to over tighten any of these and strip something out.. I know the block to adapter has to be tighter than the feed and oil cooler lines.. But I'm not sure how tight I should go.

Should I just tighten them and then maybe retighten them if they are leaking after driving?
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OutOfTheBox · Joined: 31 Mar 2006 Posts: 434

If you used new aluminium washers on all the banjos, you wont have to over tighten to stop any leaks.

I have a personal view, that if the spanner is 13mm or greater, and you hold at the end of the spanner, and use the force of your arm ONLY, NOT using your body weight, then you wont break anything.
If its less than a 13mm, I use 3 fingers only.

You must also remember that if your threads are full of muck, and the mating surfaces dirty, then a torque wrench will be inaccurate.

With aluminium washers, you should be able to feel it "nip up".

It gets to the point were it wont tighten anymore, then you apply just a little bit more effort, and it sort of squeeks/slips 1/4 turn , and thats it nipped up.

IMO using new washers in that area, which cost cents, is more important than using a torque wrench, and like you said, you aint getting a torque wrench in there very easy.

Also if the bolt is screwed into aluminium, then I DONT use a thread locking compound, if its steel into steel, I use ONE DROP of thread locking compound.

Its the steel-on-steel bolts that tend to come undone, both surfaces are hard, and the vibrations of the motor can work it loose.

Disimilar metals, bolted together, tend to "weld" up by themselves, AS YOU HAVE FOUND OUT TRYING TO REMOVE THEM, so if you use thread locker, you never going to get the thing off in a a couple of months time.

scotchw · Joined: 14 Aug 2005 Posts: 30 Location: Basingstoke, UK

I've discovered my car was suffering from this fault (broken breather). Found it whilst dismantling in this area (I was taking the head off):

There was no bolt in the support eye (holding breather elbow pipe to engine block) so I guess it had fatigued. I've had a minor oil leak in this area for ages & couldn't track it down. I'm surprised it didn't leak more oil!

Actually - one time I disconnected (& plugged) the recirc breather pipe (one that goes from oil separator bottle back into the outlet of fuel dizzy) 'cos I had a lot of condensation/mayo building up in the oil breather system. The car developed a major oil leak (smoke clouds burning off exhaust & dripping oil from turbo area!), which went away again when I reconnected the breather recirc hose. I guess there is some useful back pressure from the breather system when its all connected up properly, that stops oil coming up the turbo oil return/breather pipe.

Anyway - got to get mine fixed. Think I'll try to get it welded - quite a clean break at the body of the air/oil separator part of the pipe assembly, so should tack together.
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flosho · Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 1:10 pm Post subject:

Funny picture, I could have the same picture!! My pipe broke in the exact same spot as yours, and the bolt holding it to the block was also MIA...

A nice fellow off here sold me one for the cost of shipping. Its fixed now.

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