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that_jer_guy

Thank you all for the advice after my 1st post (especially gohim).
I have followed it to the letter and I am glad for having done it.

Replaced: timing and balance shaft belts, oil cooler seals, water pump and front oil seals for everything except the cam shaft. I also replaced all the idler gears for the timing belt. The good news is that the belt I replaced was almost new so I bet the car had been serviced recently. I could still read all the writing on the old belt and there were no cracks and very little wear on the belt teeth.

The bad part was I found damage to the ignition rotor and balance shaft sprockets (some jackass used a pair of channel locks hold the sprocket while he was undoing the balance shaft bolt and managed to break off half a tooth) so I replaced those while I was at it.

Right now I am taking the front lower control arms off. I am going to paint these up to keep them from rusting any more. There is also some wear/damage to the rear bushing on the passenger side so I'll have to replace that.

Then a little bit of painting up the underbody to stop the rust and I'll be done. It will be time to hit the road just in time for the good weather.

First autocross: April 30th in Brampton (suburb of Toronto).

Stu2j

that_jer_guy

Stu2j

Llamaguy · Joined: 02 Jul 2003 Posts: 711 Location: Indiana

the rotor should have only been about $10 US. They carry them at autozone.
_________________
1987 924S Guards Red
1997 Suzuki Tl1000 Supersport

that_jer_guy · Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2006 1:04 pm Post subject:

gohim · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 4459 Location: Rialto, CA

$10 is not going to buy an OE Bosch distributor cap.

I don't buy the generic ones anymore because they are made of inferior materials.

Very often the cap itself is made of a cheap plastic, instead of the more expensive dielectric material the the OE cap is made from. And the terminal contacts on the generic caps often have aluminum alloy contacts which have a higher resistance (more loss through the cap when the voltage passes through to the plug wires), and burn up much faster than the Genuine Parts, which usually long lasting brass. I suggest that people stick with the real parts myself, and stay away from generics.

Llamaguy · Joined: 02 Jul 2003 Posts: 711 Location: Indiana

What do you consider long lasting? I almost guarantee that it shouldn't last longer than 3 years, because you'll probably end up breaking it getting it off for the belt replacement. I know I did.
_________________
1987 924S Guards Red
1997 Suzuki Tl1000 Supersport

Kaos · Joined: 13 Oct 2003 Posts: 76 Location: Detroit

I know I mentioned this before, but FYI here is the Detroit region auto-x schedule.

I will be an instructor at the school.

http://www.detroit-scca.org/schedule.asp?pg=1

Congrats on finishing the work.

that_jer_guy · Posted: Thu Mar 23, 2006 12:06 pm Post subject: